adam-__-

Honestly what's the point? The only reason you hear the suction noise with the pod filter is that there's no box to muffle the noise. If you put a pod inside a box, it's going to be like a normal panel filter. When you have a panel filter and forget to tighten up the box, you can hear the suction noise, but when you cover it up, you hear nothing. It's going to be the same with the pod filter. Edit: I've never done it before, but you asked for thoughts so I just gave you mine.

Towards where the blue wire is mate. Deep inside. If your hot/cold works, as in you can change from hot to cold air, try switching it and you'll see the motor start working. Switch from 18 degrees then switch to 32. You'll see where the motor moves and the cable should be around there. Just give it a shake. That's all mine needed to get working.

It should be the wires near the back of the dash. Pretty much were your passenger's foot will be when seated normally, but towards the dash. Just try giving those wires a shake. I don't understand how something can just stop like that so easily. The problem with my whole system was, the heater didn't work, only cold ambient air worked. With the help of a member on here, I located the motor which controlled the hot/cold and gave the wires around it a shake and the heater started working, but the direction of air flow thingy stopped working. Gave it another shake then it worked.

Best to try it on and see I guess. I was trying to find a picture of an r33 with the Jun style rear bar/pod, but can't find any. They're all pictures of the 400r and do-luck kits. I don't think there will be a problem. The link above shows you that the bar will come in two so....

Yeah, from the looks of this photo, it's in two pieces. Not sure why, I always thought rear bars were one full piece unless they were rear pods. http://autoplay.com.au/product_info.php?cP...3c6605bd4922988

When I'm there they never seem to come out and help us. Maybe they just think we're going to test drive the cars and waste his time. There cars look better than some dealers out there.

Having the standard bar on there means you're kind of stretching it aren't you?

I had this problem when I was trying to fix my cold air only problem. It just appeared out of nowhere. It might sound kind of stupid, but what got mine working again was a shake of the wires/cables behind the dash from the back of my passengers foot well.

You should be able to get them from Bunnings, but wHaT'S wItH tHe WriTinG? Bit hard to read.

Yeah, don't worry, if you don't thrash the car while on it, your engine should be fine.

I'm pretty sure the doors open like normal and then the doors get pushed up. So if it was in the up/open position, you slam it down, you still need to pull it in to close the door. I hope that made some sense.

Offsets aren't all that difficult to understand mate. Try using this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp Type in what wheels you have now and something you want. It will tell you how much the new wheel will stick out and then you go out to your car to see if it'll fit. If it doesn't, keep trying/experimenting to see what offsets will fill the guards.

Hmm, I've always wondered if there was anything like this. The one rekin posted (first link) you've got to agree to be tracked and if you're using it to track your car down, how are you supposed to accept to be tracked if the car is stolen? (Haven't looked at the second link yet, my answer could be in there.)

Do these guys have any laws about car modifications like us? Like can they throw on wheels that would stick out 50mm from the guards and still be legal?

Congrats on the record Keith. 3 bar of boost is crazy.

+1 Yawn, your avatar looks sexy

Gloria just to be different.

What offsets do you want? Give us a rough figure. There's a 4 stud wheel that's for sale and has a offset of something like -20 on a 13" wheel, do you want something like that?

I think the tool you need you can get from pedders. You can always just use a hammer and screw driver (not recommended).

Not sure if series 1 and 2 are the same, but the bar doesn't look like it's been modified to me, unless you call the black paint a 'mod'. Edit: didn't realise i said, "series 1 and 3" was supposed to be 2

They look huge. Not bad though.

I think that's all I've got.

Try holding down your 'heat' button for about 20secs (or until the sign 'FH' comes on). Your system should ignore all the sensors and push out the hottest air possible. If it's still cold, your motor which controls the hot/cold is stuffed or your heater core is stuffed.

I guess the guy was full of shit then. Is it me or does the red interior look kind of 'shit'?

Can you lock your gate in any way? It would be the easiest thing to do if you can. Do you think they'll come back? They would know that you found out about the missing nut and it's pretty stupid to come back and finish off the job when the owner would be prepared for it.