rbs30

I've never actually tested the fuel consumption but it uses about the same as my gtr which has a standard ecu...I really dont think a microtech would have any problems getting you to work and back every day,but each to there own. Its been said a thousand times on here before but il say it again,the ecu is only as good as the tuner so whatever your tuner is best at,is probaly the best ecu to buy. Yes my microtech DID pass an im240 BUT it was only to vl commo standards because the car is a 72 model and its goes on whichever is newer,the car or the engine. If you really want to pass the test,go and get it tuned with a 3 gas tester (john collins dyno has 1).I personally just got all the mixtures perfect though soft and hard accel,decel and idle.But your test will be a lot more strict. Rather use a AFM???bahhahahaha

F#*k off effie.When your car makes as much power as mine or shane's (1jz747),then you can come back and make stupid comments like that..Yes,microtech's dont have as many load points as some ecu's but they do the job.Shanes car is the fastest cressida in the world and it has full trim and is quite drivable also.My car is a rb30det with a lt12 with X-6 and bosch coils and it is VERY drivable,even in cold starts etc,i drive it to work every day.And yes i also had my car tuned to pass an im240 emissions test and had no probs.I get my car tuned at the same place as shane and i am convinced that it is tuned just as well as any pfc equipped car.Not too bad on fuel either.I will be buying another microtech to put on my gtr..

You can run a lt-8 but you will be using a wasted spark system..Run a lt-12, Proper sequential ignition and heaps more features.I would also suggest you use the X-6 ignition system so you can throw away the ghey nissan coils.

I 2nd that!!!!

Different size bore..Could probaly make it fit..But that leaves the question,WTF for?Just buy a whole rb25 or put the head on an rb30..

No vvt on a rb26..Buy a pair

Did you run the clutch in properly??Sounds like the clutch is either faultly or you didnt run it in and it is glazed,therefore it is slipping..As for the box,I went through 2 rb20 boxes and both of them had a fair sort of a whine under power.

You need to set it with a timing light..Timing light goes on the wire loop near the ignitor.

Pics added..Email sent.

The shafts are different lengths on either side.Are you sure you got them in the correct side??If you are sure they are id check that the expanding c-clip near the end of the spline is in good order..

Located in newcastle.. 240stu:will try to get some pics in the next day or 2 and will send them 2 u. will also email you contact details

Wasnt really planning on selling but i thought i'd just see if there is much interest around in something like this.I could use the space and its almost impossible to sell a gtr these days so i'll see how this goes. I have a 1972 240z (2seater) it has an rb30 block that has been re-built just with linished std rods acl race bearings etc,head is a rb25det with the vvt deleted,it was re-built with stock cams 3 angle valve grind,new guides,arp studs etc. It has a greddy plenum with xf tb 550 cc injectors with custom top feed rail and SX regulator 300-600 custom cooler Garret GT35R with a 1.06 exh housing Tial external gate with screamer Microtech lt12-s with x-6 sequential ignition with bosch coils and magnicor leads Turbosmart e-boost2 (sleeper series) Custom 3" exhaust Big radiator VG30dett 5 speed(same as rb25 with better ratios) Custom tailshaft R32 lsd with custom en26 axels and V8 commodore cvs Custom rear disk conversion Autometer gauges 044 pump with surge tank etc Electric water pump and thermo fan I did the usual 1000 km run in then took the car to the dyno and made 320 hp @ the wheels on 10psi the tuner told me it easily has potential to make 500rwhp with more boost but to drive it for a while to get used to it first.Well i've decided that its needs some chassis strengthening before it gets anymore power so it will need some thick walled tubing welded in to replace the flimsy stock chassis rails,also a cage would be a good idea. This car weighs no more than 1000kg so it will be seriously quick when tuned more. the body is in ok condition with some rust in the usual spots but nothing serious(rare spares sell replacment panels) The paint is a mess,and i mean a mess..its flakey etc..would be a HOT car with a paint job and some wheels which i will be doing if i dont sell it(been enjoying it as a sleeper for the moment). As i said im really just seeing how much interest is out there for this. If there is interest,i will borrow a camera and take some pics and post them. If i sell the GTR first it wont be for sale..I dont really need to sell either but i would like some room in my garage and some $ in my pocket.I'd rather sell the GTR but we'll see what happens. Got 6 months rego GTR240 plates included I'd consider offers around 12k

lol....bugger..

i just had a look on hybridz coz they do heaps of this sort of stuff and the the r200 vlsd out of the q45 infinity has a 6-1 pattern same as gtr..so my money would be on that...r230 is a heaps bigger diff and would prolly have bigger splines in the outputs.not sure tho

the stock 32 gtst/s13 5 bolt ones are 27 spline...I thought the only 6-1 bolt diff's were gtr..i thought the only other 6 bolt is the z32 r230 but they are 2-2-2...maybe gtst diff with gtr outputs??not sure..

just get urself some easy outs..its not as difficult as it sounds.I've done heaps of them.

got to agree.malpassi's are poo.very unstable pressure.but a sx/aeromotive or at least a sard.

I had them in my old rb20 for about 12 months before they died..never had a problem with acl race series.Im pretty hard on my cars as well

i've had fuel crystlise in the pump and lock it up,but that was over a year.4 months is nothing.just fire it up.

Just get a slide or gcg hi-flow,depending on your budget.

you can use the bellhousing off an rb25 or an rb26 box.NOT an rb20.But as above,the internals are fairly likeley to be stuffed,

T or TT?The vg30dett wont fit in most cars.even cars that came with a vg30 because of the the location of the turbos.They will usually hit on the chassis rails,very wide motor and a biatch to work on.Then again the navara might be wide enough to accomidate the turbos...The single turbo version is much easier but older.

I always take the plugs out to make it easier to wind over untill it gets some oil flow.Also to help get the oil prime quicker,take the oil filter off,fill it up,re-install.

Hmm.I see your point!!

Oil coolers are great.Just whatever you do,get one with an oil stat.I have hks on both my cars.Oil goes up to temp and stays there.Too cold can be just as bad as too hot.