NYTSKY

OK here is the story. I will not name any names but as some of you read on you will probably figure out where i ordered the cams. I registered to a website.This website sells aftermarket performance parts.I enter my vehicle details as follows: 97 R33 RB25DET skyline series 2. When browsing through this website if there is a part you want you scroll down to find if there is a part available for your car,and if there is it it highlighted in pink. In this instance i was looking for Tomei Poncams.And lucky for me they had the part for my car. ECR33 series 2 was highlighted in pink.Now knowing that there was a cam angle sensor change in the series 2 model from 97,9 onwards i provided my car build date to this website which is FEB 97.I placed the order and waited for my cams to arrive. 5 weeks later they arrive and to my horror they sent the wrong part.They sent the 97,9 onwards cams. I sent the site an email saying that they sent the wrong part.I need the cams before 97,9. They tell me they sent the right part which is for a series 2.Technically they are correct but i provided the build date of my car so this mix up wouldnt happen. They then tell me to go to the Tomei website and tell them what part number i require for the cams to suit my car,which is 143020.But on their website they have this in the series 1 r33. I tell them my car is a series 2 not a series 1 so why would i order the part for a series 1 when my car is a series 2.And the correct part was highlighted in pink on your site to match my car. So i ask for your advise on this matter. CHEERS

highflowed??

Just looked on the suppliers website and i might have a 3 day window in which to return the camshafts for the correct ones.Lets hope they reply to my email in time.

DAMN! I cant get a refund or return either!!!!!! Looks like i have a set of cams for sale.

After waiting nearly a month for my cams to arrive,they might be the wrong ones. I ordered Tomei Poncams for a feb 97 R33 series 2. And on the box of the cams i received says: ECR33('97,9~),WGNC34 RB25DET IN 1415 256085 EX 1426 256085 I think i have recieved the 97,9 onwards cams. Can someone clarify this for me.Ill be pissed off if this is true!

My mates 360 is now back at microsoft for the second time getting fixed. WTF!

Great now i have to buy cam bolts lol Where do i get them from Nengun, greenline?

Mods are in sig.AFRs are 11.9 across the board.I have a new Nismo fuel pump,inj duty doesnt go above 80%. My guess is there is too much timing above 5500rpm which is when the knock occurs.Will be up grading a few things soon so it will be tuned yet again.All will be sorted hopefully.

BINGO! I agree 100%. I have a PFC also and when i get up into the teens in psi i get some knock its been as high as 120.Even tho the car has been tuned twice by two very reputable tuners there will always be knock of some sort. These systems will get rid of my knock and allow me to run the desired boost i want with some sort of saftey barrier. Ill be fitting all my parts some time in the next few weeks and the price of one of these systems is way cheaper than getting my motor rebuilt.

nah not at the moment but if anyone is serious about buying it PM me and ill try to get some.

So could i buy one of these kits and just install it? Does it spray all the time or only at certain boost levels? because i would like the injection to be at certain points eg: full trottle,above 10psi things like that. Still not to sure how these things work lol But would love to get one mainly because of the fact it lowers the knock alot.

Yeh nothing wrong with it works fine.Just want something different.

What else did you buy with the standard kit?

Hi all, im thinking of selling my phone and buying something else. What would you pay for a used Nokia N70 $200?

I think ill be going the SCR rotors matched with the Project type NR pads. It says on the project website the NR pads are only sold in japan.Luckily Greenline sell them

Its time to upgrade my brakes and have been looking at the various brands. I have had DBA slotteds on my last car but after a year of driving i found that the rotor was wearing pretty bad.I was using Bendix ultimates at the time. I dont think ill be getting RDAs. I was wondering if anyone has been using the SCR rotors from Project Mu for a while? Im thinking of getting those with Ferodo 2500 pads. There seems to be only one line of slotted rotors from Project Mu for the R33 gtst which is the SCR line. I would like to keep the budget at 1k so i wont be getting alcon or brembos.

Triple that request

Is that clutch a Nismo twin plate?

Under the dash next to my left knee.Never hit it.And in a handy spot.Not that i touch it anymore,always in hi boost mode

I found out today.Will be there too

Stainless split dump/front pipe,catco highflow cat,Fujitsubo Super Ti 3inch. Quiet compared to most but still read 94db when i got defected

Today i came home early from work coz im sick and i thought id do the tail lights. Was easier than i thought,here is how i went about it. Things you will need: 10mm spanner philips head flat head(a longish one) Your mums hair dryer(i bought one $15) And you LED tail lights ofcoarse. 1.Remove the back and side linings of your boot.Undo the 4 nuts holding the skyline garnish in place. 2.Unplug the tail light harness(white plug) 3.Undo the 5 gold nuts on the back of the tail light. 3.Get your hair dryer and heat around the edge(mainly where the nuts are) this will take about 5-10mins to heat up good. 4.Use the long flat head to push on the black plastic(towards the back of the car) go slow! Heating all the time with the dryer. Eventually the black goo will melt slightly and with a bit of a push the tail light will come out. 5.There are 6 screws holding the tail light together.Undo these and what you will be left with is the outer shell of the tail light. 6.Remove the bulb holders and take out bulbs.(You will have the harness free now). 7.Get you LED light assembly and screw it into the outer shell of you tail light.(those 6 screws you undone before) 8.Attach the harness to the LEDs. 9.Simply push the new tail lights in the hole where your old ones were.It will be a tight squeeze due to the rubber seal around the LED tail lights. 10.As you are pushing the tail lights in screw on those gold nuts by hand.Pushing and screwing until the lights sit snug and your nuts are tight. 11. Put you lining back in. Thats about it really. (NOTE): On the passenger side harness the is a little amp clip on the reversing light wire.Its red.You will have to open this clip to remove the harness.Make sure you put it back on when finished. Hope this helps.

Next weekend ill be giving it a go.I will buy some windscreen sealant to reseal the taillight assembly. Also ill take some pics of my progress for a "How to thread".

If it s only been happening after your adventures with the plenum,i would say leaking inlet manifold?

Does that mean you have to reseal the outer tail light to the new LED ones??