SkyHi_33

Hi Guys, Have a brand new set of Work Emotion CR Kiwami Ultimates in matte bronze for sale 18x9.5 +20 5x114.3 Comes with valves, paperwork and stickers. Bought for previous car but ended up selling it before I got the wheels, never been fitted! I paid $1850 for the set, want $1600 firm. My loss is your gain! Located Adelaide, SA call or text marko 0422 314 938 Thanks!!

Who did the inspection? What were the compression test results? How was the compression test done? Was it hot or cold? Weird noise at 9000rpm? That's pushing the Rev limit there a bit. Sure the 26 can take a lot of revs but unless it's a full built motor I wouldn't be pushing it that hard? Judging by that alone, I'd be getting another opinion over whoever did the inspection for you =/

vs-xx's just got some love, polished barrels and powdersoated centres to boot. but daily is the key here =/ 18x9 +30 is 34gtr size/offset isnt it?

Dirty3 for the third time lol.

So, to spice things up in here... Found a nice daily nissan I want to buy, the guy has two sets of wheels for it, both exactly the same apart from the offset. Only one can come with me. 18x9 +30 conservative 18x9 +15 not spectacular but will probably be picked on. But then again, might even sell them for a different type of rim all together. What does one do?

Depends what kind of coilovers they were, I had 10/10 HKS Hyper D's with progressive type springs... sounded like heavy rates for a r33 gtst, put them in, and found that daily driving they felt nice and soft, get in to tighter stuff and the harder you push, the more they stiffen up. Hands down the best set of coilovers I owned to date.

Well, the last lot of cars in the past 8 months or so... Im a car whore... I know. jzx100 chaser auto - sold evo 7 - the car I shouldn't have sold. r33 skid rig - sold jzx100 mark 2 manual - currently undergoing compliance

R33 AM Performance split system exhaust - $550 6x 650cc injectors suit rb25/sr20, jecs red tops - $300 4x 18x9 +38 brand new wheels in boxes, weds look-a like's - $850 0422 314 938 Marko

RB25 Turbo, came off an r33, was running wastegate pressure when I bought the car (7psi?), good condition overall - $350 RB20/25 bellmouth dump pipe, good condition - $120 R32/33/s14/s15 boss kit (no hicas or airbag) with brand new dished suede steering wheel - $120 R33 AM Performance split pipe catback system, 5,000km old - $500 PM or 0422 314 938

Sorry brah me and da kuzins were doin da arab drift cuzza. Dropped my kebab under da brakez bro couldnt stomp dat bro and da 4wd was at fault coz dey didnt hear my hektik doze mate, lucky I didnt call da other cuzns to smash them bro!

WTB: Dump pipe rb20/25, turbo to cat. PM what you got thank you

Any takers? Need this stuff gone ASAP, make offers people, everything can be shipped/sent... Need room in the garage it needs to GO GO GO

As much as I love this car its gotta go, need money due to work commitments. She will be missed!! :'( 2001 White Evolution 7 94,000kms (oil and oil filter just changed, all other fluids replaced 6,000kms ago including AYC/ACD, Gearbox, Diffs, Transfer etc) 5sp manual (stronger then 8/9) HKS dump pipe Apexi 3" Exhaust + decat FIC 1050cc injectors Aeromotive fuel pump Grimmspeed Boost solenoid e85 tune 225kw/300hp and 650Nm at all 4 wheels @ 17psi (more in it if you want to push it to 22-23psi) Excedy HD ceramic 5 puck clutch (6,000 kms old) High capacity lower intercooler pipe Alloy radiator Lower H brace + extensions (stiffens chassis) Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines Federal tyres with lots of tread Spirit of comp. (RALLIART) carbon style dash trims and shifter surround (rare) Defi boost gauge and controller Pioneer CD/USB/AUX/MP3 player (4months old) Standard KYB struts with lower Swift springs Standard Brembos Standard Suede Recaros Standard MOMO wheel Factory height adj. Xenon HID headlights Factory optioned fog lights Very tidy all round. Absolute rocket when you want it to be, but also a great comfortable and unsuspecting daily Bad points: Front lip needs re-spray (chipped/scraped) Cigarette burn on side of drivers seat $21,500 o.n.o. No time wasters. If you have cash I am open to genuine offers, money talks. 0422 314 938 Carsales Add: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-lancer-2001-13651683

AM Performance R33 exhaust 2.5" twins in to 4" out with titanium tips. $700 ono Sparco Sprint seat, brand new, blue with white stitching Comes with brand new rail, fit drivers side r32/r33/r34/a31/c33, will also fit s13/14/15 but one hole will not line up $550 firm R33 2dr GTST s2 door trims with switches etc $50 HKS super power flow filter, mushroom style, brand new 3.5" $50 Simota pod filter, brand new 4" $20 PM or call/text 0422 314 938

AM Performance R33 exhaust 2.5" twins in to 4" out with titanium tips. $700 ono Sparco Sprint seat, brand new, blue with white stitching Comes with brand new rail, fit drivers side r32/r33/r34/a31/c33, will also fit s13/14/15 but one hole will not line up $550 firm R33 2dr GTST s2 door trims with switches etc $50 HKS super power flow filter, mushroom style, brand new 3.5" $50 Simota pod filter, brand new 4" $20 PM or call/text 0422 314 938 Also, Mitsubishi Evolution 7 for sale with fruit, needs to go asap due to work commitments: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-lancer-2001-13651683

Not that much of a stretch, most places should be able to do it without a problem. Know a few people running 235's on 10.5" rims. Tyrepower will be able to get it done.

You should be using oils that are e85 compatible, otherwise the ethanol can dilute your oil and thin it out. Only one that I know is e85 compatible is Penrite 10 Tenths range. Im sure Royal purple would have something suitable as well but I havent really had a good look around. Atm I'm using the Penrite stuff in mine

Coming from a self proclaimed regency veteran: First things first: In Cabin: 1. check every single bulb on your car is functional, including hazards 2. washer jets work and u have water in the reservoir 3. all of your seats are legal. Seat belts ALL work. Seat slides forwards and backwards as it is meant to. 4. get subs and amps out. The less non standard stuff they notice, the better. Go in with your car stock as possible. 5. your steering wheel is stock or legal. This applies also to the boss. It cancels the indicators. 6. horn works 7. windows are all working and there’s no crack. 8. all panels etc are fixed and secure. 9. tint is legal. Make sure it’s legal. A lot of guys are failing on this. if it’s not, take it off. If you’re not sure, find out. Be sure. 10. No loose wires anywhere hanging around the place. Sub Frame & Shell: 1. all boots on everything are in good nick. CV boots, steering boots, strut boots. Mikey didn’t get thru cos of this kind of thing. 2. no significant cracks to subframe or suspension assemblies. 3. all panels are fixed and secure. This includes little things like your wheel arch liners, grill, etc. Make sure all your panel pins are in place and doing their job. 4. your aftermarket exhaust isn’t touching anything it shouldn’t, including your *handbrake cable and assembly* 5. no oil leaks, GB leaks, radiator leaks etc etc etc Wheels & Suspension: 1. your wheel alignment is reasonable (ie wheels aren’t touching, or nearly touching, any suspension componentry) 2. wheels are legal. If you’re not sure, check. A general rule of thumb is that u can go 2” rim diameter greater and 25mm wider, but check with regency before you go thru. Rules are different for each model, and for different manufacturing years. 3. tyres in good nick, including your spare tyre. 4. brakes are good. Callipers are legal. 5. your ride height is as close to stock as possible. Engine & Drivetrain: 1. you’re not blowing smoke 2. your aftermarket pod is secured. Afm is plugged in, O2 sensor is plugged in. inputs (sensors etc) are plugged. 3. your egr is plumbed in and functional. 4. no structural rust 5. you have documentation to demonstrate that anything non standard meets the relevant Australian Design Rules (ADRs) and Australian Standards (eg steering wheel) 6. If you have a visible aftermarket ecu be prepared for an emissions test. It isn’t wise to go thru with anything non standard, especially if it’s visible. Your Attitude. 1. Be cool, friendly, and relaxed. 2. Demonstrate that you respect their rules and knowledge. 3. Remember your manners 4. If they pull you up on anything, politely ask what is needed to make it legal. 5. Bite your tongue. They don't like attitude. Now that the basics are through, theres a lot of aftermarket things you can get away with, but then again its up to you how far you want to push it. Best to get it as standard as possible. For most obvious mods: Exhaust system will be fine if its not over 90db, Intercoolers are fine as long as no cuts to body structure have been made (includes reo bar), Pod filters are fine as long as theyre secured with brackets, Gauges (aftermarket) must be below the dash line and out of the crash pad zones, best to put them under your cd player if you must. Turbo timers, unplug and hide under dash or remove (you really dont need one in this day and age anyways) Boost controllers, remove. Steering wheel, if its aftermarket make sure it has E symbol on the back as well as your boss kit, if the car has airbag factory fitted, you MUST have an airbag (so standard wheel it is) Coilovers, can be engineered as long as they retain 3/4 of stroke and are locked at lowest legal height, need paperwork, easiest to remove Aftermarket suspension arms are no go Swaybars are ok as long as 1 piece (not welded) Brake modifications are usually ok, steel braded lines need to be ADR approved LSD is ok however locked/welded/shimmed or 2way they wont let through Any other bigger modifications will most likely get picked. At the end of the day its your attitude, stay cheery, don't be a smart ass, take interest in their work and be positive. Ive been through countless times with one or more things I shouldn't have been through and passed... hell I even had holes down the side of my rear quarter pannels from widebody kit that was removed, car in primer, pulled and flared guards, locked diff, hidden boost controller and gauges hiding under the dash and a few other bits and pieces and didnt have a problem..

R33 gts, gts-t gtr cooling panel (full size) - $150 SOLD R33 gtst rear camber arms - $80 SOLD Sparco sprint (blue) with r33/r32/a31 rail (barely used, as new) - $650 $600 (Seat is $500 new, rail is $220 new... both of these were barely used the car sat in the garage being built for 2 years!!!) AM Performance split system exhaust fits r33 gts-t/gtr with decat pipe - $850 $800 Pics: Also have: 1x HKS mushroom filter 3.5" inlet NEW - $80 (bought in Japan, not ebay crap) 1x Brand new pod filter 4" inlet NEW - $30

R33 gts, gts-t gtr cooling panel (full size) - $150 R33 gtst rear camber arms - $80 Sparco sprint (blue) with r33/r32/a31 rail (barely used, as new) - $650 AM Performance split system exhaust fits r33 gts-t/gtr with decat pipe - $850 Pics:

Shall be tuning the new found love of the 3 diamond variety on e85 in the next week or so. Atm it stands at: Standard evo 7, hks dump + apexi exhaust with high flow cat, running very lean and kicking back to safety map 18psi produced 184kw at all 4 up to 5,800rpm limit (didnt want to go higher due to leaning out but it would have been around 200-210 on usual 22psi by the looks of things) Bought: 1050cc injectors, aeromotive 340lph pump e85 Results: in a weeks time prediction 240 - 250 at all 4, not bad for a standard car eh

standard s1 r33 coilpacks, cheap cheap. anything will do just need to get motor running

Rb25det motor, s1 r33, no turbo, no intake manifold, no injectors gates racing belt done 15,000kms ago with pulleys and seals compression 145-160 on all 6 cylinders comes with loom and ecu also Make me an offer. Need it gone now.

sell wheels, buy mine, disconnect attesa-ets and live happily ever after

It will be fine