SkyHi_33

as mentioned, both cars are very different in dirveability, the way they put the power down and generally well... everything. really depends on what you want it for and how you set it up. the last part is key, set up. if you spend money on a bunch of parts to make a magical figure and only focus on that, then yeh it probably will be "fast" but doesnt mean it will be reliable, responsive, offer a great deal of feedback or be very driveable overall. hey put it this way, know of a certain 380awkw gtr, the guys spent all his money on the engine, chucked in some second hand jap coilovers and called it a day. My gtst with just under 200rwkw and a massive flat spot in the power curve getting there shat all over it through the twisties. in a straight line theres no comparison... 380awkw will eat almost anything else on the road. my point being, two cars set up for two different things.

pm sent

after sex on the beach, pm me.

had it idiling for about 15min before, exhaust is clean, no smoke (bit of condensation at start as its been sitting around) the coolant is greeny brown and started foaming up before but seems like its slowly clearing up. have not had the chance to bleed the coolant system yet as its in the garage blocked off by other cars (dont wanna make a huge mess) but will try do it during the week. i did let the thermostat open and topped it up some more tho. checked the engine oil after i shut it off, seems clean/normal. all lines seem fine, no leaks that i can see. turbo spools up fine just revving it and can hear it smoothly slowing down after its shut off (ball bearing) so i think its all hooked up fine.

nah just a standard 33 radiator... no pictures of the foam unfortunately. was running around making sure there werent any leaks etc and didnt get a chance to take a pic. ive had a quick search and smeone mentioned that it can happen when the coolant is very low, the water pump pumps air through it and foams it up :S

ecu options rb25 ecu, external emulator needed. only person i know that does em is dr. drift in vic. rb20 ecu with nisstune, common chip mod, loose vct z32 ecu with nisstune, same as rb20 but with vct and direct support with z32 air flow meter which you will need for 300rwkw anyways (or q45 afm for 300+) power fc, most common but no safe map... if it starts knocking and you dont realize or dont ahve ahand control unit it could end in disaster microtech, haltech, motec whatever tech, stand alone ecu's most have a map sensor therefore no need for afm. then you have your piggy backs like emanage or other jap stuff which are ok but the time and money youll spend getting it right might as well go nisstune/power fc out of a standard turbo setup with exaust and cooler on 12psi you will get close to 200rwkw, a bit over with a re-tune for 300rwkw youd be looking at fuel pump, air flow meter, injectors, turbo and some sort of ecu. I would also reccomend a metal head gasket. there is plenty of options on which turbo to go for... depends on what you want to use it for and how responsive you want it to be.

yeah double checked that... oil feed is mid way through the block, return on the bottom? water line off the intake manifold, return towards the back of the block?

Hi guys, just did a turbo conversion on my rb25. Now the car was running tops before the conversion, chucked a new manifold, turbo, braded lines etc on to it and started it up. No tune, no driving, just idling and the coolant started foaming up out of the radiator. It is quite a thick white/browny foam. Now when the turbo was done, the coolant drained out of the turbo water line and would have been fairly low. I topped it up with water before starting but the thermostat wouldnt have opened. Have not topped it up and bled it since. I checked the engine oil, inside rocker covers etc. and am pretty sure (well, from what i can tell) the head gasket is ok. Remember, the car hasnt been driven at all, just idling and a quick rev or two when it warmed up. Reckon it would have just been the low coolant? Flush it out a couple times then fill it up and bleed properly?

^ reach arounds as part payment?

need a federal permit at Adelaide airport? *puts work photos away*

rb20/25 split dump pipe, one piece to the cat. stainless steel - $150 pm or 0422 314 938

same mount positions.

holy shit as if you got away with that!!

Rb25 turbo Came off my 33, s1 126,000kms Ran perfectly fine, had it for 1.5yrs but now im upgrading to hks bits. No smoke, no hassles. Has little shaft play but nothing serious at all. Will throw in brand new oil line and multi layer steel t3 gasket for free as well. Asking $350 but make an offer. need this gonnee!!! pm or 0422 314 938

nothing wrong with a1rm for street use at all. ive had mine in for a year, seen 3 track days, plenty (and i mean PLENTY) of spirited drives through the hills, plus on top of that ive used the 33 as a daily until just recently ive retired it to a project/weekend/track car. i tend to use gearing a lot more then brakes so im yet to find the limits of the pads, but in cold weather morning starts they seem a little soft however get up to temperature fairly quick. this is not to say they dont work well, they feel like a standard nissan pad when theyre cold and you wont need any more then that in traffic anyways. on track/hills theyre an excellent pad, have no problem at mallala pulling up to the turn 5 hairpin after the back straight from 200kmh in some 150ish mtrs and ive never had them start really fading, again i use gearing a lot combined with brakes so its not as harsh on the pad.. my setup consists of rbf600 fluid, slotted rotors, qfm a1rm pads and steel braided lines all round. also if youre serious about track, you gotta remember that suspension setup plays a reasonable part in how the car behaves while accelerating and stopping too. my 2c.

some interesting conversions http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?t=17004 comoline is just so so wrong tho hahaha

old soft cocks... hahaha no aircon in any of my cars its a great way to loose weight and shape up for summer

i see, the head was going to be machined flat, wasnt gonna bother with the block as it wont be coming out. kinda having second thoughts now haha, so how much punishment can std head gaskets take?

to fit it on to a s1 properly, you need 15L of unleaded, a pack of matches and an open area.

...gasket. Basically finally putting my turbo kit on however was thinking bout doing the head gasket, questions I have: What thickness metal head gasket should i go for? 1.3mm or 1.5mm? Are the studs gonna be fine? Should i get new studs for it too? Turbo kit is capable of just over 300rwkw but will be tuned down to around 260-270.

loves it. haha

haha dunno, joe always gives me that price maybe coz i look like a broke down mofo needing a break with the ammount of slaughtered de-laminated tyres ive had removed there hahaha

been through regency 8 times since ive owned mine... never had child restraints in, never been picked on for it... last time it was in primer, with stencils sprayed over it in matte black, pop rivets in rear guards to seal holes left over from widebody, 50mm flares over the flared rear arches, interior half stripped, 3.5" straight through with a 1" pea shooter pipe and muffler rudely bolted on at the end, shit hidden everywhere and got picked on for locked diff and a couple lights not working. was so hillarious they got 4 guys to look at it at the same time and spent a whole hour on it. went through the next day with diff changed, no lights fixed... and passed. win. people get shit scared of regency for no reason...

Word of advice, If youre going with a pod, buy a 3A brand filter... $30 at most and outperforms ALL big brand jap and local stuff in filtering ability and most in flow too. Usually sold at Motorquipe.

wheelworx do em for $10 a rim if you bring them in... always go there to get my tyres fitted.