SkyHi_33

+ free GTR strut brace $250 o.n.o neeed to move these, taking up space.

really considering this now, is there a sign up sheet or just rock up in the morning n sign in/pay fees?

if you are going to regency they will generally check that you have fixed what you were defected for and let regency deal with the rest. Cop shop only signs the back part of the form allowing you to drive the car up untill your appointment. All fees are paid at regency.

daaaammm id be sooo keen if i had my tx3 still. took it out to lala once, was a great exp. not so keen on taking an auto car to a race track lol. it shits me driving through hills as I cant use the gears properly, cant imagine it being any better on the track.

ok so as long as I flush the system completely, dot4 is fine? dot3 is what it says on the master reservoir cap...

WTF i called jap import spares and nisswreck and they both told me that they cant get new tie rod ends :S:S fk my luck anyways, I found a dude in SA that sells new ones for $29 each and a set of non adjustable castor rod bushes for $59 (but then you need to get them pressed in) he's on ns.com as a trader "Shock Systems" if you're interested. www.shocksystems.biz

soz, took a bit of a break from the car over the holidays haha ok well the fan clutch and fan have been replaced with VL items, so far so good! boost seems to be back too. Took the turbo cover off and found nothing out of place... Havent taken it for a drive yet to be completely sure but sounds right. Not the main issue atm. So that's the pipe you were referring to, haha im an idiot. but yeh that's fine too, was the first thing i checked and no visible cracks/leaks etc... I have a feeling the previous owner might have topped up the brake fluid with the wrong one before I bought it as its been sitting out the front for a while. Bought some dot 3 fluid and will flush the system tommorow. Still think the secondary seal in the master needs replacing but will give bleeding the brakes a go first. Can mixing different grades of brake fluid make the pedal mushy and require you to pump it up for decent pressure? one more thing, the a/c compressor is under the power steering pump no? It does not appear to be turning when the engine is running, it seems that the a/c belt is just rubbing over it, even when the a/c in the car is on. Pretty sure that's NOT how its meant to be so i need to replace this too? (a/c doesnt work, so DUUHH but doesn't hurt to ask )

they must have.. or back of a van or something, it was in camden park area...

Oh f**k man... that really sucks Ryan really knows his shit, i don't understand why people would be ungrateful for him taking the time out and working on someone elses car at pretty much half the price. I still feel kinda guilty for dragging you out to do my thing, car is still running tops too! I know you can do everything around the car yourself but if you need help with anything drop us a pm.

Just reading back from the thread, My car is currently awaiting its 2nd inspection and im looking for 2 parts. 1. tie rod ends 2. castor rod bushes I've called regency 2 times so far and both said rose jointed stuff is illegal. I made a mention of grease nipple type which one of the operators said that they will double check and then came back saying no not allowed either way. So my question is, what can i get to replace the tie rod ends and castor rod bushes that is definately legal? i.e. what brand/type of stuff have people been through with and were passed with as regency information centre is as reliable as a cheap chinese dildo. Also worth mentioning is that I've already talked to few import places and no one can get new factory tie rod ends so it seems.

Hi guys bit of a long shot but I thought id try spread the word here too. Mates bike was stolen Monday morning between 3am-10am, Its a 1998 Aprilia RS-125 Rossi replica orange/purple Rego: YYZ-311 Distinguishing features include: polished frame, left bar end painted orange while right one is still balck, hand grips are yellow, rossi stickers are a bit faded and the front screen has yellowed, the gear lever has been snapped off and re-welded, there are minor scuffs on the left side fairings. My mate is pretty devo about this as his dad rebuilt the whole thing and he had it for ages. If you have any information or see the bike around contact the police immediately or pm me here. Thanks!

stock, Led's... while they are quite maintenance free and what not just look way too ricey and are 98% of the time TOO BRIGHT. I cant stand pulling up behind a car with led's at night, if i wanted to drive blind id tint the shit out of my windscreen and wear sunnies all night. sorry but hotplates ftw!

yeh intercoolers are fine as long as: 1. reo bar isn't hacked up 2. everything tight and nothing hanging under the bumper 3. the cut holes for the piping are neat and treated so they don't rust

See personally I don't mind having to go back because they found something. I went to my first ever inspection a week and a bit ago and they went over every little part of the car in detail, It costs $135 to get it looked at first time and $67 i think he said if you gotta come back. For one, a quality workshop would charge around $150+ anyways for a complete check over without fixing anything and secondly at regency you get told the facts about legality of modifications, you can ask them questions of what is and isn't illegal. I think the prices are fair and they might find something important that you might not have spotted or overlooked like they did on my car. Of course, this doesn't justify them being anal about engine/suspension mods but you should have been prepared for a defect when you decided you were gonna put them on.

Whats even worse from enthusiasts loosing faith in police is that their friends/family also start loosing faith... soon enough SAPOL turns in to a joke and we all live happily ever after. No but seriously, I know of quite a lot of hard working parents that are also realizing that all this is just bs. In the past year my family personally, and family friends families have seen our cars being broken in to, one vandalised, stuff stolen (car and non car related), 1 drunk driver accident, and 1 case of assault...... SAPOL came through only on 1 occasion (drunk driver) because it happened to be 20m from the police station and even then they stood around chatting amongst themselves which gave the feeling that they didn't want to be there and didn't care. 3 of the other incidents were reported while in progress... by the time cops showed up they were long gone. Hell might just as well do their job and go out and arrest these guys, but oh no SAPOL advises that you should stay inside and wait for them to intervene... over 15-30min later or not at all, then come the next morning to take a report?!?!? Ahem, weren't you meant to be here when 000 was called and the asshole was inside the car ripping away at the ignition barrel? But oh no, look someone has a nice expensive, tested and proven modification and they're treated like a thief, criminal and a murderer. Whats gonna happen with the claims made of real crimes? Does SAPOL even bother with 000 calls anymore? Sure there are law abiding police officers that do what they're supposed to when they're supposed to, and id like to believe that, but where are they when all this is happening? Sorry about the off topic bitch, I'm just getting angrier and angrier reading about people being unfairly mistreated.

im out, double defect + engine problems = no fun

ive had a detailed hunt around the engine and found nothing that was disconnected, unplugged etc... im not exactly sure where to find the booster vacuum lines but nothing seems out of place. where exactly are they? atm im thinking that the booster itself is the problem. Bought a fan clutch and fan itself (mines is all cracked etc), haven't installed it yet though. Still unsure about boost issues, haven't driven the car since the night it all happened as i really don't want to be testing boost with no brakes. Is there any chance the clutch fan could be restricting the boost at all? As when the car went back to normal for a bit, the boost was kicking in fine. as soon as the clutch fan completely went, so did my boost.

$250o.n.o i really need these gone as they're taking up space and i really need some cash. make an offer. good for getting off defect etc... r33 gtr strut brace thrown in freeeeeee

Im not gonna drive the car or mess around wit hit untill the brakes are fixed. I had another opinion given to me that the clutch fan could have blown off a vac line somewhere which is affecting the boost and brakes. Although it seems very unlikely weirder things have happened. And considering it all happened at once I wouldn't be surprised at all. Atm really pissed off about the bonnet insulation, its ripped to shreds, was mint before now the car looks like its been thrashed since it was built

Ryan replaced the water pump with the timing belt change and service less than 500kms ago. The car has done just over 105,000kms. I understand that the fan cannot spin faster than the engine as its very logical too but how the hell do you explain the large amounts of air coming off it making a huge WHOOOSSSHH sound and ripping my bonnet insulation up I cant think of anything really that can make it do this. You're quite welcome to come past and take a look for yourself as I'm letf scratching my head here. Ill take off the turbo cover and have a look. Jonnyboy89, the boost solenoid isn't the problem as the engine does the same thing with the bleed valve on (dodge boost controller)

here is a video of the problems, i jsut checked over the whole engine n nothing seems out of place http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=4tEAvQCj75k you cant really tell the fan noise in the vid but its still noticable and you also hear the squeaking later on in the vid.. Is the wastegate actuator just under the bleed valve bit? and the actual vac hose goes in to it? It sure looks like one... Also the car was dead cold when it was started and the fan is still going nuts etc..

im not really sure how to explain the fan speed but it pushes out a shitload more air than usual and sounds three times as loud. The cover on the bonnet has started to deteriorate from the fan blowing air on to it. Im not 100% sure if its the fan alone making the loud noise. Water temperature im not sure, the gauge reads fine but as mentioned cant completely go by that. Where is the wastegate actuator? I didn't change the whole exhaust, only the muffler (should have mentioned that duh..) but it seems to have happened after that was done. The muffler is quite restrictive and id imagine it would have a lot of back pressure. With the boost gauge, it reads vacuum fine, as soon as it starts spooling it goes up to 0 then when its meant to be coming on boost it goes a tiny bit over 0 and stays there. Thats when the engine fan sound starts and its reeeallllyy loud. I can hear it over the normal cat back exhaoust. (thats 3.5" i think (haven't measured) with apexi cannon)

Hi guys, just got back home after the car started letting me down. Its a s1 r33 GTS-T automatic. Up until Friday night it was going hard, not a problem. Saturday morning I changed my exhaust over for regency appointment that afternoon, it had a boost "bleed valve" so I removed that too. Well in the afternoon as I set off, the car started acting weird, the radiator fan sort of spun up a lot faster and louder than it ever used to and I started to notice that the car was barely making any boost. It was spooling but no boost. Ok so two hours later and after a champ at regency, my car got an extra sticker but the guy was awesome and I understand why it didn't pass as, LH tie rod end is damaged and my castor rod bushes are cracked and leaking. I don't mind as they're both pretty important things. So anyways, today I swapped my exhaust over to take it for a drive and the engine still didn't sound right as the fan spun up soooo loud after about 2,000rpm. The car was barely making any boost. Ok went home thinking maybe the factory boost solenoid is stuffed. Changed back to bleed valve and pretty much instantly my problem was fixed, or so i thought. Driving a bit later on, the brakes went soft and I lost braking power, checked all brake lines and canister, no leaks etc... I still don't know why they went soft but to brake properly I gotta pump them up a fair bit (btw at regency the car passed the braking test with flying colours). Then the fan noise returned, it now sounds like a truck fan getting up to revs and is again making barely any boost. On top of that it seems that there is a loudish squeak coming from the timing belt cover, i recently got this replaced by Ryan and he said that it might squeak for a bit etc, im not sure if this is related. The engine doesnt seem to missfire or anything, it still runs pretty smooth. So after babying it home I have 4 problems. 1. The fan spins up so fast that it started to screw my bonnet matt up as its literally ripping off. 2. The car is barely making any boost under power 3. there is a squeak coming from the timing belt area 4. My brake pedal went all soft (sort of like serious brake fade or an air bubble in the lines) I'm seriously pissed off right now as this is the last thing i need for the holidays Any ideas?

buy some normal clamps and a spray can in whatever colour you want... or find someone that does anodizing and get him to anodize a whole bunch for you. EDIT: wait you're looking for covers, nvm..

Yeh its the paper man, comes past my house too, drives like an absolute nut... I've almost been taken out by him one time when he cut the whole T intersection as i was approaching it, lucky he swerved quick enough. But yeh I don't really think you have much to worry about unless you're driving near him lol.