SkyHi_33

Me:good evening sir C:get your licence out (jsut from tha ti knew i was getting bent over no matter what) Me: no problem, 1 second C: open your bonnet while youre at it and get out of the car (please would have been nice) Me: yeh sure, one moment Me: i jsut bought the car it needed a bit of work, i still got parts on order C: *points to bov* thats illegal, im gonna get the paperwork out (no emotion) Me: yeah i know, ive been looking for a factory recirculation valve, no one has them in stock C: yeah sure... His friend: put him down for exhaust as well (without even looking at it or checking it) So what a f**king awesome night, I wasn't doing anything wrong, from a group of about 6 cars driving i was the only one to be pulled in. I was being as nice as i could trying to explain that I really am getting rid of half the crap that was on the car but no, i even showed him the papers from purchase... he didn't show a bit of human at all, didn't care at all. and his f**khead friend too, didn't even check how loud the exhaust was... at 3,000 rpm you can barely hear it over the engine... Bent over by the law and Regencied. so what am i to do now, first time i have ever been defected (pretty damn lucky up until now too)?? Its put down for regency: 1: bov fitted - to be removed 2: check DB noise to comply ADR I'm guessing i should also make sure there are no leaks, wheel bearings good, cv joints good, suspension good and all lights and instruments? Soz for essay.. hehe didn't wanna start another thread

Yeh bit late now.. already ordered the kit myself... if we got on to this a bit earlier probably would have gone genuine. Will compare it with genuine belt when it arrives. You still up for doing the service Ryan?

in need of a factory r33 rb25det air recirculation valve, also known as a blow off valve. thought i might ask on here first see if anyone has one cheap... also, the clutch fan is the plastic radiator fan up front yeh? Mines starting to show cracks so might as well go get some vl lovin.

Apparently most small firms and companies generally just copy the product entirely or make small adjustments. Usually they are of same quality but are cheaper due to copying a part costing a lot less than developing one from scratch. I had a talk to one of my uni teachers about a similar topic on aftermarket parts... that's what he told me. He used to work for Nissan designing the Navara and helped with a few others along the way in japan a few years ago.

My thoughts: Its not the car, its how you use it. I am 19, yes young, but Ive owned a few turbo cars since i started driving. Yes, they were quick, yes they got me in to trouble once or twice, but from what Ive learned over the last 3 years, i wouldn't have it any other way. I bought my own cars with my own money, from my experience this is a major point when it comes to any car in general. All my mates that got their cars from their mommy and daddy's bank accounts don't give a shit about them, do whatever they like and think they're the shit. Secondly, when you put your hard earned on the line you learn to appreciate it a lot more, find right places and right times to open it up and most importantly take it within your limits slowly until you get merely comfortable and THEN you start to really learn about your car. I have no remorse for the driver, he knew what he was doing, and he should have known when enough was enough, and most definitely should have known where not to do what he was doing especially with the car full of people. Finally, i believe our tight ass government should spend our heard earned money that they are so blatantly taking from us on putting youth through defensive driving courses and the like, instead of extending learning times and restricting them from driving cars which really, lets face it, doesn't help them in situations that could have been avoided. Sorry for the essay, My 2c

Almost got rid of the flat spot!! still there but only a bit. The k&n pod filter it had on was effing horrific. Had so much dirt on the bottom and side that its beyond belief.. Inside of it wasn't bad though but still :| Replaced with a dodgee supercheap pod i had lying around for a while untill i get a better one. Runs a fair bit better now, got better response and minimal flat spot! Also, if anyone wants to save a bit of money on a timing belt kit (belt, tensioner, idler, seal?), clicky below: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=180164504375

ok this is going a bit off topic now... enough bitching ppl SERVICE MY CAR!!! lol

Name: Marko Age: 19 Location (suburb only): South West Adel. Work (what you do): Studying Industrial Design at uni... would be in trade if it wasn't for parents car/mods: s1 R33 GTS-T / Apexi 3" exhaust, k&n pod, shit gfb blow off est price spent on car: $5,800 including the car... (needs some rear shocks, power steering leak fixed n service) other interests? Motorbike riding, motorsport in general, anything mechanical, imports, photography, designing crap, hanging out with friends, getting up to crazy shit and going out.

old rims for me.. those don't suit it imo.. Maybe if you get your old rims done in same colour

Cool, again thanks for helpful replies How much do PFC's cost these days? around $800 mark private sale? haha sorry about all the questions, skylines are new to me... everything is computer controlled also, whats GReddy E-Manage like? I understand its only a piggyback so just basic functions can be changed... in terms of price though they seem pretty reasonable.

The car has a 3" exhaust, k&n filter and some shitty gfb bov... very basic. Would SAFC get rid of the atmo bov problems such as wanting to stall at times etc? Or would it be better if i replaced this with standard item? I hardly see the benefit of having aftermarket bov if the factory unit does a good job...

wow many good responses! appreciate it heaps fellas! Ryan, you have a PM

oils arent really a problem for me, i just thought if I'm gonna do it right might as well get everything done at one place as changing belts etc.. aren't something im confident in doing. ill ring around a few places tomorrow but will let you know.

any fluids/filters?

that's pretty much what it feels like, sort of misfiring but not so harsh. the car is running stock boost. where did you get your 100,000k service from? boostworx? what was done?

Its done 104,000 well, more like "104,000" if you know what i mean... im guessing its in its mid to high 100's like most of em. hence why id replace most of the stuff. btw, the car has a flat spot at 5,000rpm on full power, not always there but sometimes it doesn't wanna go over without a fight. ideas? im thinking spark plugs might be the (or part of) reason why.

Hi all, Got a s1 r33 gts-t not long ago and am thinking about getting it serviced by a workshop instead of doing it myself like usual as I've gotten incredibly lazy. I'm looking at getting a complete service done so just trying to figure out how much I'm about to throw out of my wallet. Things i want to do: all fluids all belts all filters spark plugs tune up What do you guys reckon? Who is the best to do this work but doesn't charge an arm n a leg?

Great stuff guys! Thanks a lot, I've been looking around the place for a decent oil press gauge but haven't decided on anything. Should be next thing after full service n dyno tune. cheers!

stalling issue sorted, it was the bov, the adjustment was way off and the piston inside stayed open. fixed the vac line too. engine seems to run fine, no smoke, oil still honey colored and plenty of, however I've been playing around with the oil pressure sensor n gauge but got no results. when on cold start the oil pressure bumps up to around 5 kg per cm sq. however when warmed up and driving it still reads about 1, on boost it goes up to 2-3 and stays like that up to redline. normal? or needs attention?

thanks for stating the obvious. would be better if you told me what to go and check instead champ.

ok, i had a feeling that might have been the case. any ideas on why oil pressure might be playing up?

just to add, when revved up to around 3-4,000 rpm the oil gauge reads just over 4 kg per cm sq.. i have been informed that these factory units are quite unreliable, but is there any other way of knowing apart from buying a decent aftermarket one n hooking it up?

Hi guys, Just recently bought a s1 r33 gtst, when i got it the standard oil gauge was reading 2-3 kg oil on idle, just after a drive tonight the car started trying to stall after the engine is revved up past 2k, it goes down normal but continues to almost stalling than bumps up to idle. I found that a vacuum line was leaking on the manifold and did a quick insualtion tape job on it just to get home (close by). On the way home the oil pressure was reading around 1 kg when cruising at 60 with the leak still there. Any ideas? Would a vacuum leak cause low oil pressure readings? What should the oil pressure be at idle, 60km cruising, full power? The engine runs all smooth while driving, turbo spools normal (didn't wanna boost coz of oil press reading), no noises etc... The car is automatic (sadly) if that makes any difference? heeeeelllpppp Heres a pic of the leaking vac line:

pm sent

Hey, soz for the long wait... not much computer time avail. The police didn't do anyhting, I went to my local police station and they said that they do not have any records etc... so yet again, great to know sapol is raising revenue instead of chasing real criminals