ronnydotk

No wonder i couldn't find it using the word "girdle" in the search. It's listed with a typo as a "gridle". Nor does it have the word sump in it anywhere. This is it. Although i've gone off the idea now anyway. I think a modded gtr sump for rwd with a tomei baffle will be fine for my intended purposes.

Pull the plug off the ecu and cas. Check continuity at each end for each wire (at ecu pin out and at cas plug) by using a wiring diagram. then check for short to ground with each wire. Are the coils being switched? doesn't sound like coils or injectors would be pulsing if no signal from cas. If loom test up ok, and you have tried 3 cas' then it has to be ecu.

Unlikely that 3 injectors had a mechanical fault all at the same time causing them to pour fuel in. I'd be saying electrical problem of some sort that caused the 3 injectors to earth out and stay open. Unplug fuel pump and check with a noid light if all the injectors are being switched while cranking the car. If there is a short to ground on the earth side of the injectors you could check for continuity to ground in each wire (with ECU unplugged) to check that. From there chase up rubbed wires in looms etc (fun stuff). as for damage, it is hard to say. You said the engine continued to run until idle, then died. This suggest to me that at higher rpm then engine was able to get rid of enough fuel to stop a hyd. lock up, which is good. Then at idle the engine simply couldn't get rid of the fuel quick enough and so it filled the cylinders up until hyd. lock stalled the engine. I'd be saying probably no damage... but you won't know until it runs again. I've seen pictures of diesel trucks getting a guts full of water and throw rods through blocks/bend rods/crack heads. Hopefully this has been avoided. The fact there was still petrol in the cylinders means the rings aren't smashed down the skirts anyway!!!

yeah interesting. Only reason i wanted to use the adapter and a rwd sump was it would have been cheaper to put a high volume sump on, compared to a high volume/baffled gtr sump. Food for thought now anyway. I emailed hioctane - no response yet.

As the topic states. I can remember seeing them a while ago on hioctane.com but can't find them anymore. It was a plate that allowed you to use a rwd sump on the rb26 block. This would have been perfect for my planned application of a 26 in a 32 gts-t, but if they don't exist anymore then i'll have to find another way. Has anybody else seen them/know what i'm on about? Or did i just dream it up? Cheers Ron

450rwkw, i don't think he'll be using to many of the stock pipes/manifolds on it. Most likely GReddy plenum, hi mount manifold with one of these. Even that turbo will be on its limits

It would never have had any oil pressure if this was the case (or only what could get passed the prv) and as blue32 said after about 10sec of winding 1st time around oil pressure was seen. And winding an engine on the starter isn't going to open a prv.

I'd be interested to find out too. I plan on doing a r32 RB26DETT into r32 gts-t. I was under the impression that because the engines run stand alone ECUs that using the ecu for the engine was the best way forward (minimal amount of mods to wiring). Only thing i have thought might need to change is the alternator and starter motor cables (use original from vehicle i'm guessing)? But yeah if anyone has done this swap i'd be interested in some details.

You would be best off buying a R34 Neo ECU/loom if you want to put a Neo engine in.

Even in Vic you won't need an emissions test aslong as all the standard emissions gear on the car is working (carbon canister, cat converter etc...) And also the engine cannot be modded in anyway that would affect the emissions (so standard turbo and cams etc. standard engine basically). As long as everything bolts up nice enough any engineer should pass it.

Have you actually checked a fuel line for pressure? If you have pressure in the supply line and injector pulse then i am happy with that. I believe you have spark. Which leaves only compression (if cam belt is still in one piece then it's hard to see any reason why all cyls have lost compression - you can tell low compression by the way it winds over) One other thing to consider then: If you for whatever reason had a lack of fuel to a cylinder (fuel starvation under hard acceleration?) a backfire through the intake isn't unusual. A backfire through the intake can damage the "hotwire" in the AFM. The AFM is the main signal used by the ECU (along with the CAS) to calculate a base fuel load and ignition timing. If the AFM has been damaged by the backfire then it is unlikely your engine will run at all. This happens quite alot to cars fitted with venturi type LPG kits (not really relevant here). LPG systems falls out of tune (lean), backfires, blows AFM apart, no go on petrol (runs on gas as gas processor doesn't need AFM to operate). Anyway, your scan tool will tell you if afm is working or not. cheers

Hi all. I have been planning this swap for quite a while (after vicroads and EPA squashed my RB30DET in R32 plan). What i have worked out so far is: Buy R32 GTR front cut Take engine, harness and computer. few small engine mods (oil drain at rear of head, high volume/baffled sump) get an RB25DET g'box and clutch etc (do navara speedo swap) bolt it into the GTS-T. What issues am i going to have as far as interchanging parts. What should i do with the front diff on the GTR sump (can you get a plate to block the sump up if you take it out?) Do GTR intercooler kits/piping fit a GTS-T (or is there a difference in the front of the cars?) Will original gtr airbox fit in the gts-t engine bay? will a catchcan designed for an gtr engine bay fit the gts-t engine bay? (one from hiOctane.com) Will an X-Force GTR exhaust fit the gts-t undercarriage? Anything else you can think of? Ta

Not a teenager either... However when i was a teenager i used to drive my datsun 1200 ute with custom made turbo setup (T25G) daily around bendigo ("the hoon capital") and never once got pulled over for it. Even with p's up!!! Goes to show it's not what you drive but how you drive it and when you drive it. I drove it to and from work everyday for 12months and never got pulled over, while my mates would go out in their "sick vn bro" on a saturday night and cut laps and sure as eggs get canaried! Anyway this is all way off topic now. Quite a bit of good info in here though

thanks nismoid. Yeah the exhaust noise and emissions test would be too hard. I think after all this i've decided to change pathways. go with r32 gts-t and put rb26dett in. as you said low mount gt2860's will be stealth... then it's only vass ticket i'll need (if a bit sneaky) damn vicroads and the fun-police

Would RB25DET and RB26DETT need to pass euro 4 or only the emissions standards of the time they were produced or the R32 was made?

Whoops. Only just realised that i was talking about capacity of the engines not power ratings or weight. Probaly all still the same though. Depends on stock power figures as to whether or not they are LA1 or LA2.

vsb 14 code LA2 is for engines that are more than 20% heavier or more powerful than factory (which is what an RB30DET would fall under). Says that "When ADR complying engines are modified by using alternative components such as camshafts, carburettors and engine management systems, proof of compliance with any relevant emissions ADR is required" So if you went with a RB26DETT or RB25DET in an R32 it would still fall under LA2 (as 20% increase of 2L RB20 is 2.4L). Its that because they are already ADR compliant engines (in stock form) that it wouldn't need to have the emissions test (if presented in stock form). But if it were modified in anyway (as stated in VSB14) then they too would need to be gas tested. And even though r32s had RB25DE in them, they were offered only as non turbo and if you converted an R32 with RB25DE factory to RB25DET and presented it to engineers then it would still fall under LA2. It's amazing what you find out when you dig a little deeper....

I think i should talk to some engineers. What i've read from vsb14 (get it from vicroads - replaces vsi8) you can use any engine and it can be engineered with any mods as long as you pass the emissions test and have up-rated all other neccessary components (ie suspension if the engine weighs alot more, brakes if it's alot more powerful) maybe the RB30DET is out of the picture.

Yeah i was thinking that might be the case. I wanted to try keep internal gate turbo as it will just be less hassles to get engineered i presume? I read on here that dangerman put the iw gt35 on his rb25 without any issues, so i'm hoping that on an RB30DET it does the job too. If not it will have to be an external gate job.

Hi all. Just wondering, on an RB30DET setup in r32 gts-t would the standard exhaust manifold be to restrictive when chasing around 350rwkw? I am only planning my build at this stage but i would rather have all the bases covered when it comes to building the engine. I don't want to get the engine inand find out the standard manifold is holding back the turbo from all of it potential. other things i plan to use on build of RB30DET BR25DET head vct hooked up (standard cams) plazmaman plenum (to clear bonnet) 66mm throttle body fmic gt35r (internal waste gate, running around about 20~22psi max) power fc 550cc injectors walbro fuel pump (or 044 if walbro isn't enough) Does 350rwkw sounds realistic with stock manifold? If not what are some good brands to look into? Has anyone tried tuneagent? They seem very cheap (almost too cheap???) Thanks again. Ron

I'd be very suprised if there is a tool to get the springs out of a skyline head while its on the car. Yes you can put compressed air into the cylinder and hold the valve shut while you wind a clamp like tool up to compress the spring. The problem is with these heads the springs sit down inside and you won't be able to get the clamp down onto the sides of the spring. Any cars that use shim buckets have the same problem.

so with all your mods and the soon to be ECU using a MAP sensor i wouldnt even reccommend starting it until you upgrade the injectors. (that is an overstatement but its not far off). depending on the drivability you're after then choose what injectors you need (make a compromise between the open/closing time and impedence etc). the people you're buying the ECU from will be able to hepl you with all this. i would say that roughly 700cc injectors will be more than adequate to drain your tank (550cc will probaly even do...) you may also need to upgrade the fuel pump and have a surge tank too with that size (700cc) injectors. (unless youve already done this, i didnt really read your 1st post very well) however im not an expert and i would strongly advise to talk to the people tuning your car about what injectors you will need.

all sounds good. definately get a highfolw metal cat. i would take the custom made job over the bolt in one, espescially if you say they are "wonderful"ly made. $950 for a custom made stainless exhaust with all you need from the turbo back sounds pretty good to me. the only way to get a cheaper one would be to make it yourself (if your a welder). And ive never had any trouble with stainless steel, aslong as the TIG is cranked up enough.

from my R32 GTR manual Intake: valve opens 7deg BTDC, closes 53deg BBDC Exhaust: valve opens 63deg BBDC, closes 7deg BTDC does that make sense? lift is not stated, just clearances

well it depends on what type of battery you have and what type of speakers you have. 6" (coaxial i pressume) are more than adequate for rear speakers. what people dont realise is that rear spekers arent important in creating good sound quality. in fact they should be faded out when there arent any people in the back seat... you're better off spending more money on better quality splits for the front and having some el cheapo ones in the rear. if yours are hitting then id say: - replace bettery with a smaller one OR - remove rear speakers all togethor OR - relocate battery to allow for the speakers. OR - cut a section of mdf, glue them to the parcel shelf where the speakers sit and screw the speakers in that. effectively giving you an extra bit of clearence. out of interest what speakers are you running?