ronnydotk

boost doesnt depend on revs. its throttle posistion or load... so in neutral or park no load so unless u put the foot all the way to the floor and are prepared to let it ping its arse off then its not really gonna boost up at all.

the 4wd drive system will make it a bit slower actually. not only due to the fact that more energy is lost in the transfer case. but because all wheels gripping means less oversteer in the corners!!!

thats most likely to be the gearbox not the clutch if it goes away with the clutch pedal depressed. its normal for a bit of noise in the gearbox when idleing. put the foot on the clutch and it should go away though.

take the throttle body into the wreckers and fit the loom to your TPS plug. S1 wont fit in the S2 throttle and vice versa

well. it has been known to be... however temp is only a small factor. problem should go away if you follow what i said before...

i wouldnt worry about it. i am guessing it is fairly cold where you are when you start your car in the morning? anyway, if it is that much of a pain, take all the belts off, give all the pulleys a good clean with wet and dry (alternator, A/C, power steering and harmonic balancer) clean all betls in warm water and resinstall. should fix them problem. if not, change your brand of belt (not all belts are created equal)

motec is definately the best... microtec and wolf 3d arent so great. motec doesnt use AFM though. uses tps and map sensors i think, so there is a bit of work to get it going, but the most rewards in the long run

yeah i would have said CVjoint. the load of taking off and turning sharp corners would probably be making it stress. get it looked at by a mech (or diff/trans specialist) see what they think

also the shitty 4stud hubs on the GTS, GTSt has 5 stud. dont forget that with the GTSt ecu you will need a GTSt loom too.

buy a datsun 1200. cheap, light, quick and turn on a dime handling... not to mention the fuel economy....

i've found a couple of R33 ones, but no R32 ones yet...

any1 find anythin for an R32 GTR? here

all i've found is a pinouts diagram

the paint is immaculate. i'd say respray at some time for sure, just because of the engine bay paint... i'd find it hard to believe that the engine bay hasn't been resprayed at some time. there is no way white paint in the engine bay can look that good after so many years.... the external paint could be standard though, it just needs to be well looked after.

a mate of mine did the RB30 with RB25 head and he's not looking back. although he did it into a VL so i'm not sure how easily the 30 block goes into a R33 bay. as far as the NEO or standard R33 25DET they should all mount onto the same cross member without to much fuss, if anything you may need to swap the engine brackets over to the old R33 RB25DET ones if you go the neo option. i'll go in favour of the NEO conversion.

i believe

you havent mentioned if you check the coil packs are getting power, or if they are whether the plugs are all fowled. once you're positive that you have fuel and spark, then worry about electrical faults. to me it sounds like there is a wire that goes to the coil packs that is shorting on a wire that turns the car "on" visibly check all wire connections and if you dont find anything, get the multimeter out and a wiring diagram and play "needle in the hay stack" you can only hope its something simple.

Datun = Nissan (basically anyway) I think everyone just needs to just chill out. All skylines are good. Even the old silhouette that my parents owned!

if it has a cat, ressy and a muffler then i wouldn't think it be a racing exhaust. 700awhp is a big figure.... i would have though 4" straight through would be more what you needed. remember: (theoretically) turbocharged cars shouldn't run exhaust because turbos hate back pressure. whereas atmo engine need some back pressure to make low/mid range torque. if i was aiming for 700hp at all wheels (which is about 525kW) then i would rather a bigger than neccesary exhaust than having the engine choking because it cant get rid of its exhaust gasses quick enough. is the car going to be driven (or attempted to be driven) on the road? if so then you will be restricted as to how open you can have your exhaust. if its gonna be a track car then just go big! you dont need to worry about mufflers for the track. so in conclusion, i would upgrade your exhaust. if its going to be a track car then get 4" or close to pipe with no muffler or maybe just a ressy. but if its going to stay on the road then keep the 3" and just get rid of the ressy and cat (but you run the risk of gettin a little yellow sticker if you do that) hope this helps

We're on level 4 restrictions here and cant wash cars either!

check this out click! fairly technical article about drivetrain loss