tommis85

Yeh man, the t-bar Skyline scene has died in a-hole. Totally and utterly dead sadly.

Hi, I've giving my throttle bodies a good scrubbing too I shall be re-sealing and re-setting the throttle bodies as per the steps outlined above. However, I do have a question....what do you guys do about the sealing around the butterfly shaft / spindle itself? I take it you just try to get either some moly grease into the tiny gap or a bit of the RTV silicon to cut down the gap in there? Thanks! Tom

Gents I'm about to do the same thing where I need to put an R33's diff centre and input spline into an R34 sump / diff housing on my R33 after my sump cracked on me. So this is straight forward yeah? No clearancing issues that have been mentioned on other forums?

Sounds like a plan. If you're not doing so already, use a foot pump with a gauge on it to sync those two actuators. Actually hook the pump up behind the Y piece that joins the two sets of actuator vac lines and then gradually "pump them up" and keep an eye on when they both budge, then crack and then gradually open. If one does anything sooner than the other then adjust rod's tension. I had to wind on about 5-7mm of pre-load on to my rods to make them hold a solid 17 pounds. (my wastegates stay solidly shut till about 13-14 pounds and then open up from there to give 17 pounds but I still need to get myself an EBC to sharpen those last couple of pounds off - mines basically an all-mechanical boost setup at the moment without bleed valve or EBC) You might even find that on your setup (with pump attached) that your wastegates start to creep open as low as 7-8 pounds with the aftermarket actuators...makes these -9's quite spongy! I gained a good 1000rpm or so when I first tensioned them up properly.. But yes, definitely get your computer sorted out along with some adjustable cam gears, coil packs and injectors (to be safe) before winding up any boost man. It's a bit crap doing this stuff on the factory computer - tried it for shits and giggles on my own car with pretty poor results.

Hi Sean, yeh like Paul said, there shouldn't really be any shuffle with -9's. Do you also still run your factory recirc valves along with the rest of your stock intake plumbing? The only thing not standard on my -9 setup is a set of pod filters and mine is shuffle free (despite my concerns from back when this thread was started )

Gents, just wanted to thanks all who made it all possible! Bloody awesome day out...these sessions definitely get better and better each time round! Hope I didn't scare anyone with my squirmy rear end

Paid for me and +1

Hey could you add a +1 for me please....scare my sis a bit for her 18th

Get a v8

That's quite an achievement there Piggaz

Well gents it's not all about dyno power figures. It's also about responsiveness and where and how the torque is produced. Obviously the smoother the air flows the better. From a physics point of view everything should just come on sooner and harder with a more free-flowing system. It may not generate that much more HP but it might run better and more efficiently. Sure, the stock system might be able to pass enough air for a 500kw setup but how much energy would be wasted trying to make that happen? The stock setup is good but how those two air jets merge could be done a lot better - hence why people go for a hard pipe setup with a very acute angle of merging. It's all about making best possible say, 300kw. The best possible curve. Not just any old curve with 300kw reached somewhere, but the best curve with the most "meat" under the curve line (which equates to torque).

I'm running the stock intake pipework and "twin turbo" pipework still and have no issues what so ever. Would be nice to get less-restrictive pipework one day tho!

Yeh that or you could try one of those splitter plates or extended hard pipework to try to minimize it. All you have to try to achieve is to either make the two jets of air merge more smoothly so that the turbos don't fight each other, or, reduce the efficiency of the turbo a little bit my re-installing the stock intake plumbing as you've suggested. I guess it's whatever you can afford to do ;-) Good luck!

In!

Who's that? Maybe we need to do a new page for us Tbar and Gatton peeps on FB? Just one central place? A bit like what we had for Toowoomba skyline owners but also with the Gatton peeps?

Yeh mate...how long till your car is back on the road?

I aint not scared of yo lil' LS1 white boy

Quiet, fool.

And another thing that could easily bugger things up is a faulty AFM or just a blob of oil on the AFM's sensor...another thing you can add to your list. And speaking of air/fuel mixtures....sparkplug, coil packs and block fuel filter/injector can also cause low boost....although the deterioration of these is usually gradual in nature. Sounds like this thing just happened all of a sudden?

After that I'd check the turbo too....first check the actuator tension and if the actuator rod hasn't hopped off it's wastegate flap spindle. Then remove compressor intake pipework and check how the turbo spins/feels/play etc. Shagged turbo or popped off actuator rod will mean very low boost also. Couple things for ya to start with

Yeh kents, me and young Nick here were thinking that it's time for a cruise and some beers!

Not sure what's happening anymore Nick...just about all the new peeps I've gotten to know on here/facebook are all at the coast

Or maybe we all roll up at yours Clint?

Went to that Nandos meet with 180 Nick....we definitely need to get a couple of us together next time round. This time they really had a fantastic turn out there!! So what can we do cruise wise in the mean time? A trip to a pub lunch would be nice....seeing that you're mentioning food Clint

I wanna do drags again one of these days! That was a good day out even if it cost me a gear box