tommis85

LOL I've been waiting for that Yeh same here. It's meant to happen with big efficient BB turbos that spool up a bit too much air down low and cause surging and stalling out of each other in a seesaw/back and forth fashion. That's how I understand it anyway Sort of similar to that shhh-shhh-shhh-shhh that it does when you back off the throttle very slowly at lowish RPM and on boost. ....i think. I'm thinking I'll be fine.

Risking, So if mine was to shuffle for some strange reason (people say it should be OK)....then to what level would the TT pipe mod cure the shuffling? Would it still be there a little bit or would it completely disappear?

Text sent with pics

Maybe I should do a poll on the issue - GT2860-9, will they shuffle on a RB26 with factory plumbing - yes/no

Manifold sold. Just have some intake piping/filter remaining now if anyone's keen. Large diameter pod, can provide some more photos.

Ah damn, so there's probably a 50-50 split of people who've experienced shuffling and those who haven't with -9's From everything I've read it would appear that the GT2860-9 turbos are on the very limit of wanting to shuffle. We're approaching winter so I guess some of these very "well working" turbos will shuffle a bit down low with the far more denser air.

Ah ok excellent - sounds good. And yes, that's a good point - I had R33 N1's on it at one stage and they never shuffled either althought technically, it has more to do with how fast and how far down low the BB cartridge makes the turbo spool up rather than just size etc etc. But either way - sounds like I'm in the clear with the 9's And yep, I'll be keeping all my intake piping for now anyway.. Thanks for the quick replies peeps ;-)

Thanks guys - that should be all good then

Hi all, After spending many hours reading thru topics on here I have decided on a set of GT2860 -9 turbos for my R33 GTR but still have one niggling problem I'd like to throw to you experts out there......and that is the issue of that shuffling you get with larger BB turbos. Now, there're plenty of topics that talk about it but a lot of them stop half way or don't quite confirm a solution. The three main solutions appear to be: 1. Keep all your factory plumbing, especially BOV return a and balance piping 2. Weld a balance pipe between the two manifolds 3. Weld a divider pipe into the "twin turbo" collector pipe. Could anyone who has had this problem please let me know how they went about fixing it. Am hoping for solutions and comments from those who have actually dealt with the problem first hand.... I was orginally going to go for -7's that apparantly are so close to stock performance that they don't shuffle....but now that I'm going for one step up from those I'm thinking we'd be back in the suffle zone. Thanks for your time guys ;-)

Even my vspec palette has down more k's (inhouse joke lol) Yeh I should be right to come for a putter with ya'll

Hi there, just seeing how much it would be to mail the wing end caps to 4350? Cheers

Yep I worked my ass off as well...but I'm gonna tag it onto the end of the easter break to my boss's dismay

Just letting you know that I'll be throwing the manifold up on ebay after this weekend - so if you're interested or have any questions send me a PM, cheers

Common peeps - surely someone's in need of a nice tuned length many for a 26!?

Ah ok, fair enough. Well, for what it's worth I've come across more sources saying 4.1L or "a bit over 4L" than the 3.8L amount

Hey I've been trying to find the manual for this....so far I've only managed to get the engine manual and the normal glovebox manuals although that one is only for everything but the RB26! In what manual are the above details? I take it's a drivetrain manual of some sort?? Cheers man

Nice work ;)I'll have to have a look on the weekend

Thanks Moodles. Still a bit concerned about the two main oil capacities stated for the R32/R33 GTR's. You guys on this thread swear by 4.1L amount but mates of mine and some other sources insist on the 3.8L ( approx 1 US gal. business etc) Where did you guys get the 4.1L from if I may ask? Is it just what you've been using or is it written up somewhere? Worst thing about it all is that every time I've taken my car to a mechanic in town (1 box rebuild and 1 box replacement) I've only drained about 2.5 - 2.8L out of it (which is the GTST amount...sad!)

Yeh it's freakin expensive! I wonder if you can get smaller bottles of it so I can top mine up to 4.1L?

Ok fair enough, but god there are some different amounts on various forums hey? Claims range from 3.8L to 4.5 to 5.0L! There's another thread on here where he recommends exacted 1 US galon, ie 3.8L which is also what the Redline bottles come in. I think I might be running just under 4.0L so I might top it up.

Hi there, So how much oil did you end up using? I'm looking at doing my box as well and I've read that they run anywhere from between 3.8 to 4.5L of oil (from various sources). I think right now I'm running between 3.8 and 4.0L plus a tube of Nulon additive. Thanks, Tom

Tricstar, yeh the GTS boxes take a fair bit less from memory...but you'd probably want to confirm the exact amount. I'll have to measure how much i got in mine although I dount it would make much of a difference to the synchros. I had a brief chat to my mechanic about the synchros and exactly when they *notch* and he insists that IF they are broke, they should be notching on fast shifts the most. (mine notches at regular shift speed and is fine on a slow shift and a fast shift etc) Yeh the lightweight does work wonders! However, I'd much rather a healthy box and run normal good quality gear oil in it rather than something as controvercial (so many "claimed" pro's and con's) as the Redline range.

Please ignore this post...miss-placed fuse was the issue

Hi all, After swapping over a head unit in the R33 GTR I have now got a problem - my climate control and clock won't keep their settings after ignition has been turned off...ie, every time I turn on car clock will read 1:00 and the climate control will be 25 deg etc. I'm no expert on car electronics but I'm assuming that the clock and radio are no longer getting their "trickle" of power to enable them to keep their settings? Could someone please confirm what sort of voltage / wire colour etc they should be supplied with? I have also since swapped it back to the old factory head unit to try and get clock and C/C to work again with not much luck. (note they'll work fine during driving but wont keep settings after engine is turned off etc) Really hoping someone out there has nutted this one out ;-) Cheers, Tom

Have been doing some reading in some other forums about the Redline Lightweight Shockproof I'm running in the box and as always some people rave on about it and others are quite scared of it! At the mo I'mn suspecting either the syncho as per previous posts or the oil. Here's a little exert aboit the oil.. "Do yourself a favour and get rid of that Redline light weight. You will find in a GTR that the Motul gear oil will create a nicer shift. The Redline stuff gums up the sychros and makes it hard to change gears. This was a recommendation from Terry at Award Diff and Gearbox when i had trouble with my gearbox. It wouldnt change nicely so i drained the box, ran some crappy oil for a few hundred klms to wash out the Redline and re filled it with a quality Motul gear oil and the gearbox is much nicer. The Redline is great for dog boxes but there is better out there for synchro boxes" What do you reckon? Should I maybe try some Motul oil in the weights recommended by tricstar??