tommis85

I meant I didn't want to write about something totally non-turbo related in this thread so instead I just threw a link in and hope some of the GTR guys on here visit it in their travels.... I did a lot of posting about my turbo upgrade on the last couple of pages and I plan to post future stuff about my GT3582 developments in this thread. I just thought it'd be a good idea to keep the coils and anything else separate.

Damn.....two different replies! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...80#entry4438780 I doubted it would work but thought I'd ask.

Thanks Vspec, well it won't hurt to try. I've been told that there is a miss under load at high rpm on the dyno. He had a set of Splitfires there and they made it go away so it's been isolated to the coils. I've been getting the E11 tuned in over the past week and there were some dramas with the turbo....my mechanic was sold a crap one (he bought it on behalf of me through his supplier)....my GT3582 had a ford XR6 cartridge inside with damaged exhaust wheel and other signs that it wasn't brand new, so it's been sent back. It still worked, but who'd want a exhaust wheel that looks like this? (I'll load up photos tomorrow)....and besides, I payed for a NEW turbo not a second hand pieced together one. So, come Tuesday, I should have a "real" GT35 without a old second hand cartridge in it and also, I'll be trying the 0.63 housing while it's apart so stay tuned for that as well. I guess I'm lucky I didn't sell my spare coils then ;-) See how they go. I wish I didn't sell my Splitfires.

Hey guys could any of you answer this question for me? It's just regarding my coil packs under a new topic - didn't want to hi-jack this one with other stuff. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ks-t258041.html

Hi all, I just have a very quick question. Can the factory coil packs from a R33 GTST S1 be used in a GTR of the same year? I ask because the ones in my GTR are stuffed but I still have my old ones from my GTST. I know that the Splitfire coil packs are the same for both the 26 and 25 of certain year models so I'm just curious if this is the same case for the factory items. Please advise. I'm thinking that they probably won't be ideal but will get the car from A to B????? PS - this is just temporary, I hope to get splitfires in the very near future.

Well that's what I have my AFR in there for. Have to make sure that my pump is actually putting out enough pressure too - I think it may be a bit weak according to some of the tuning done but will have to see what my other tuner has to say when it's dyno time. I guess we'll see what it spits out next week hey? I'd be happy with around 360 to 380 horses at the rubbers for now. No need to push it to it's limits with stock-just-about-everthings lol. I'll ramp things up a bit when I get the injectors and pump. Hey, do any of you run oil coolers for the engine oil? I'm looking at getting one purly because she heats up on the track. The car's quite fine in the city and also on high way driving but on the track the oil temp gauge goes almost to full. Does anyone have recommendations on size and brand? I said there and then that I wouldn't race without a oil cooler again

Yep, will have to see what they get it up to. LOL, if it puts out more than that you know we have a problem!

Haha no way, I won't be doing stuff in such tiny steps! Just not all at once either as I wouldn't be able to afford that anyway. When she's tuned up with the E11 in the next couple of days the car should be quite nice to drive. For me it would be a big power upgrade when you take into account that it only had around 220-230hp at the treads and will now sport around 380-400hp etc. Big power step up and I'll be happy with that for a while till I have some money again (lol) ....afterall, I drove the GTR in stock trim for over a year. Exhaust, pods and 12 pounds. That's it.

TiTAN, well yeh I thought as much because after I've been for a drive I've felt the intercooler out of curiosity and yeh, the outlet side of the cooler's surface is nice and cool while the other side is warm to touch which means that it's obviously doing it's job. I remember the intercooler on my GTST - so pathetic - the entire thing would heat up in 10mins! I replaced that one with a cooler that I wouldn't mind on my GTR!

Well according to my budget I'll be taking pretty small steps which is probably the best thing for this 'database' anyway. I'll be getting the E11 tuned in and then I'll sit back and let my piece of plastic recover! Damn spending spree haha! I've actually changed tuners now and this one seems to have a more logical approach to things as well....he too recommends just getting everything tuned in with the E11 and then add stuff at a later date. I totally agree with your last part about the worst case scenario! Up to what power level would it be safe to take the stock injectors up to? I know that you can read this from the E11 tuning software, but just in general, what is a safe level to take them up to so that they still have some duty to spare for knock and whatever. It was mentioned on here that I should be seeing at least 400awhp with my 15 pounds but when tuned properly, will the injectors and fuel pressure live up to this? Also, while we're at it...does anyone know how good exactly the stock intercooler is? It has a reasonable surface area but is a bit thinner than your aftermarket application. What about material? I guess it wouldn't cool as well as a modern intercooler of equal size?

Lithium, sounds reasonable. I can live with 1 bar by 4000rpm. Besides, when you're on the track you're driving at 4000rpm plus all the time anyway. What if I only have ECU and cam gears for the time being, where would it spool then? A bit higher, by say 200rpm or so?

Ah ok...I'll keep that in mind for next time. I already got mine. I guess that would be something to do for high demand items. I guess that with expensive stuff like ECU's you might be waiting for a while to get say, 10 orders together? Or what? It could be weeks before I see it when really I needed it yesterday lol! But yeh, mine should be getting tuned tomorrow. I'll post up results again for the pro's to analyze VspecR33, you mentioned that running a set of adjustable cam gears would greatly improve response and top end....my question is, would they make the turbo spool any sooner? Like, say you're 2.6L is fully tuned with E11 and has the adjustable gears, where would you think the GT3582 turbo would reach full boost of 1 Bar? Is it a bit over 4000rpm? 4300rpm maybe?

lol....well I read through my documentation and the E11 sounds like a pretty darn good computer! N1GTR, how does this group buy work? I've come across it a couple times on here. Is it like buying stuff in bulk? (there you go that's my next question lol)

Mmmm well that's the impression I'm under. I think most people would go for an E11 V2. You know, I could go for a PFC and might strike gold in that she works just fine and I don't have any tuning problems and no issues created by the AFM's and so forth but I think there's a pretty low chance that this would be the case. The PFC would definitely be an improvement over what I have now but yeh, you have to think of further down the track. I'm thinking that my biggest issue with a PFC would be my 13 y/o AFM's....two of the buggers, not just 1 which could be half acceptable.

But yeh guys, I'm trying to decide between the E11 V2 and the Power FC. Both of the ECU's have their own qualities and offcourse the E11 is the better choice out of the two with many more features not to mention that it gets rid of your AFM's. This is going to be a decision as hard as chosing between a GT35 and T04z haha - could almost start a new thread (omg that rhymes) If I buy a PFC I run the risk of not liking it and having to sell it again for less and then buy the E11. Apparantly RB26's with a big single + 2 into 1 air flow pipe are a b[tch to tune with a PFC, unless you go for the D-Jetro version which I think eliminates the need for AFM's. ....but then some claim they plug in and play just fine! I've got a big document here where a tuner compared the E11 and PFC back to back on a R32 GTR. Will have to go through it. Just wondering what you guys think. I'm sure there's a even spread of E11's and PFC's out there. (maybe...lol)

My tuner reckons that despite all the awesome computers out there he's found that the plug and play Power FC setup is one of the best he's ever used for mixed street/race applications.

Yep I've been tossing up between the two. LOL yes she's a lag monster at the moment. Computer and cams and full re-tune should change that! Well it better lol! I'll post up all results - it should be an interesting thread so long as the RB don't blow up before hand

Damn here I go thinking that they did have some form of intake valve adjustment Ok, that's all fair enough. There is conflict between recommendation on here and what other people say but that's cool. Perhaps I'll just go for the ECU first along with a set of adjustable cam gears to specify the degrees of advancement and retardation that you wrote in a previous post. So, immediately from here PFC and adjustable cams are highest priority? I'll focus on getting the engine running properly and safely first by the means of the PFC/Gears and then slowly build up the mumbo AFTER that has been achieved. Guys, my tuner told me that he could make the GT3582 run without the computer and that is obviously incorrect now. I guess it's some results for the thread. Results of what NOT to do, but results nevertheless: Bolt internally gated GT3582 onto stock RB26 engine with factory support. Only mod is 3" exhaust and pods. 304.6rwhp on 15 pounds (torque as per picture posted previously) Is drivable but can be a bit bumpy at 60km/h Drives fine on highway at 100km/h Comes on boost at around 4500rpm Extremely laggy below 4000 (lol) Quite fun above that There we go, my results for the SAU community ;-) I'll definitely keep posting up my results on here. The car should transform with the computer and cam gears dialed in to suit the bigger turbo. I'll look at the exhaust sensors as well - makes sense to use a decent one with your new computer.

Also guys, just a little question going on from the Cam gears. What happens with the variable valve timing if you replace the intake cam gear as well - not just the exhaust gear like some people do? Do you disable the variable valve timing? I take it that most of you would have come across this already seeing that you'd be running adjustable cam gears.

LOL very true Tomek - sorry, keep on forgetting haha! It'll be awesome when it's done I reckon. I'm interested in seeing how your 1.06 housing spools....mine's a .82 I'll have to pay close attention to the tacho and see extactly when the GT35 begins to spool and when it hits full boost and see how much of a difference it makes with the adjustable cams when I get them. It's meant to be quite noticeable according to the thread

Vspec R33, thanks for the info mate - very much appreciated as always. The thing is that I'm not on terribly big budget but nor do I want to take out a loan for the mods. I guess you see a lot of people who have these massive horsepower cars and a sh[t load of money and you wonder how the hell they do it. This is a bit of a reality check. Ideally you'd want to have it all on there at once but I've chosen to span it out over a couple of main stages that should see it complete by around April. Stage 1: (completed) Manifold, turbo, braided oil and water lines, fpr, 2 into 1 air intake pipes, turbo to intercooler pipe, stainless dump to 3" system, safe tune Stage 2: Fuel pump, adjustable cam gears and re-tune with retardation and advancement as per your recommendations (pump's not providing enough pressure and cam gears would make the car more stable for now) Stage 3: Haltec E11 or Power FC plus full tune up Stage 4: Intercooler, oil cooler, fuel cooler, splitfire coilpacks.......etc etc Those are the stages. Obviously it would be most efficient to do them together as it would save money in re-tuning but seeing that it's a daily driver and I'm currently putting up with it's lumpyness (carefully) I have to get the work done progressively. I'm sure there are plenty of people on here in the same boat. Some may be lucky to have a second daily driver so that the project can be left in the garage. Vspec R33, what do you think of them stages?

T04GTR, I know....my plans seem quite interesting. I'm lucky that it has worked in stages like this.....ok, it may not be driving the best in traffic but it actually drives safely. Just a bit rough, but according to the dyno screen everything else is in safe areas. I hope to have it all going properly by April for a couple of Top Gear races. In the next two weeks it should be re-tuned with pump and cam gears to get it going smooth again and possibly spread the power out a little bit better. Come April, it should be safe to do some racing with it. I ran the FPR issue past my tuner and he's aware of it. He says this one is quite good but he knows that some of them do spike up and down in fuel pressure as fair bit. I'll ask him about taking it off all together - especially for when the ecu goes in. When you're saying I should use a 044 intank (which I have in my GTST) do you mean that it's also the 040 that cavitates? Or do you mean 044? The pump in my GTST done that after driving for a while - surged it's ass off! I'll have to check out the surge tank option with a fuel cooler. Yep, my tuner has recommended 740cc injectors in an earlier quote - they'll go in soon. The turbo has a .82 housing. I haven't paid exact attention to it - but it seams to kick in between 4500 and 4800. With some adjustable cam gears and ECU where would you be expecting it to kick in then? Would it be a little bit earlier? Remember mine is 2.6L too. Thanks for your help guys - I'm trying to take it all on board. The exhaust is a stainless one that cost around $1200.

Hey, thanks for your reply! This is the sorta info that I've been hoping for ;-) Ok, so I'll be able to to a fair few timing adjustments when I have the PFC installed but right now, without adjustable cam gears, it would be a bit hard to do right? I've read that you can make the factory gears adjustable, but at a cost. There's nothing I can do now, or? (Bog stock remember) Well I believe that he put the rising rate regulator in there to deal with the fuel at the high end of the tacho. With it's current level of tune (poor) you'd probably prefer to gave a safe/rich A/F mixture at the high end - at least it won't go kaboom then! He admitted that he hasn't dealt with GTR's as stock as mine before - most having at least 500rwhp when they rock up at his work shop. I don't think he's ever seen a fully stock engine bay like mine in a very long time. So, for now I should be looking at: - pump (which, apparantly is flowing a bit weak but not dangerously low) - Power FC to get timing under control and to suit the more efficient turbine - adjustable cam gears? - bigger injectors so that there's room for tolerance (eg knock mode and so forth when they need to open up) - take out rising rate regulator? Cheers, Tom

VspecR33, I'm actually Tom mate...Tomek is another guy on here. The car will be used for track work but also as a daily driver (to some extent). I'm hoping to get a shitbox to drive to work ;-)

No problem. My tuner has recommended PFC and pump as the immediate things that need doing. Currently I'm not even driving my car to work as it runs pretty rough in traffic. When you're on very light throttle it feels like the A/C is kicking in and out repetitively. So yes, the car's locked up till I can get the computer and tuning sessions.