sky017

maybe you have blown your amp dude - can happen if its a cheapie . check the fuse that runs to the battery - the one for the positive for your amp.

i did one rocker cover before on another car - and in all honesty , the paint will only crack if you dont remove all oil from the covers , happened to me on my old car , small section cracked , i found moisture in between cracks , must of missed a spot when cleaning . so be carefull and take your time dude . and cover all your pipes with cloth too , i dropped a spanner down my fmic pipe ha ha lol - had to take the lower pipe off - mistakes happen so take mine to your advantage . good luck - cheers

alright guys for those who want to know what was done . ill do a mini write up in this thread ! 1/ pretty much if you search the forums for "rocker cover diy" you will find a great write up on how to remove them and replace the gaskets. now you dont need to replace the gaskets unless they are cracked . i planned on replacing mine because i had an oil leak along the bottom block . but the gaskets looked fine and were still rubbery . my guess is the screws werent tight enough even though they shouldnt be too tight !! when you remove your CAS , gauge with a marking knife exactly the position around the bolts onto the CAS so you dont distrupt your timing . 2/ once you have removed everything and you basically have your coil cover / rocker covers and cam cover off place them on a surface. collect a can of degreaser . spray all these items down thoroughly . wash the degreaser off after 2-3 mins . now there still maybe a rough surface and build up of debree. so collect some 800 gritt wet and dry paper . wet each item as you do them and sand them down until they are 100% smooth and free from any dirt . on the coil cover also remove the nissan 2500 sticker or tape it up . along the sides of the coil cover it could apear cracker , this is a small thin like a gasket to make the coil cover sit hard in , mine was cracked heaps , so i just removed it - it comes of heaps easy , and just clean any debree with a stanly knife. 3/ once everything has dried , collect some thinners or turps/metho . and wipe down to clean any missed debree. thinners would be the best because it'll eat it away and dry off fast . 4/collect the engine enamel paint of your desire. now lightly do 1 coat with smooth strokes. repeat this process 3 times so you have 4 nice tough coats , and leave about 20 mins between each coat or until touch dry. leave to dry overnight. the supercheap paint is primer enriched , so you dont need to buy a seperate primer. 5/ the next morning . check for any debree that could fall on the parts , if so lightly sand them off and maybe spray a final coat . if not needed , collect the can of clear enamel , and do a nice thick coat , so that its all nice and glossy. do about 2-3 coats allow 1 hr drying between each . the clear enamel takes a lot longer to dry. 6/ you may need to leave everything for a couple of days . because the clear may take a while to harden , as said in on the can , the items wont fully be cured until under emense heat . so basically when they are on and installed again they will dry over time , and the heat will help dramatically. 7/ if you have light oil leak like i did , i also got some sealent for the gaskets from supercheap auto and placed it all on the bottom block where the gasket sits , to seal everything. 8/ collect all your bolts and spray them with degreaser before you install - so they are nice and clean , i found this usefull because mine were all dirty and im in the process of cleaning my bay out thoroughly. 9/ be carefull when installing everything , i had a few knocks and a few scratches . its not easy doing it by yourself so all i can say is be carefull because it could happen , and use something to prop up any cables/hoses to prevent light scratches . if you do get some , the spray is good because you can do little touch ups and it will dry as its been a full coat spray . 10 / once installed make sure your car starts properly etc . and everything is connected before starting. my products used were from super cheap . i used the following - septone - yellow engine enamel - 2 cans , you will only need 1 and a quater can , will have heaps left over for future touch ups if needed. [ around $15 a can] - septone - clear high protectant engine enamel . - 1 can only [ $18 ] - 1 sheet 800 wett and dry [ $1 ] - 1 can degresser [ $2 ] - small amount of thinners / metho / turps [ $4 ] - gasktet sealant [ $8 ] thats pretty much all i can say for now , but if you have any further Q's , just PM me . or let me know if iv missed anything . thanks for the comments guys . cheers

dude search the DIY . im sure there is something there , it wouldnt be that hard . there are instructions in the box for sure , try reading them . its not that hard to do . !! . you can find anything on the internet dude . or if you are that worried about screwing them up , maybe go to a workshop , but then again your gonna be charged a fair bit for a little job cheers

some engine enamel from super cheap auto . and some clear which resists up to 650'c . the vht stuff is pretty shit , its around 400'c

thought id pop these up , i thought id go for something completely different , i was gonna go get something done in the shop, but i thought id do this myself , and have 2 colours to make it stand out... looks crazy , im happy with the way it turned out.

you want some one to install them? or you want knowledge on how to install? i got a boost gauge from just jap , and i have to say its really accurate , and piss easy to install.

alright thanks for the help guys . i will use some primer on the plastic coil pack cover , and sand it to 800 gritt wet n dry which i did with the rocker covers . also i wanted to ask is the cam cover hard to remove?

does that go for the coil pack cover too . ? im using a paint which is primer enriched already , thanks for a fast responce.

im in the stages of painting my rocker covers . and i was thinking of doing the cam cover , i wanted to know will the paint be able to hold on this? also the black coil pack cover? could that be painted with the same stuff even though its plastic - or would it eventually just peal off cause its not metal? cheers

just degreaser mainly - they were in pretty good nick , if they had built up dirt - it would probably be best to sand them back or use a wire brush i didnt bother sanding over the top of the nissan logo after , or using a white paint , i like them in one colour . anyway im off to make a start on my rocker+cam covers cheers

i worked up the attitude to do my break calipers , and id have to say im pretty impressed with the way they came out . i used : 1/2 can of engine enamel paint(red) 1/4 can of clear (takes up to 650'celcius) - highest rated i could find so basically i cleaned my calipers with degreaser and thinners , and let dry . then sprayed 4 coats of the red , 10 min between each coat , then let dry over night . next morning i did 2 coats of clear , poped my wheels back on , left to dry while i repeated the process on the other side of the car . easy done!! here are some pics.

okay for ever one that is going to give this a shot - i sanded the hard surface with 400 gritt . and cleaned the surface with thinners . SANDING is the most crucial part if you want a smooth gloss surface i didnt sand between coats only before priming , cause it was unecessary. unless u have inperfections . i ended up doing 1 coat of metalic again because there was a fragment of shit on it lol.

not to worry dude - you can get away with connecting it to any vacumme hose apparently . i did and i havent had any trouble since . did u get a fmic from just jap? cause i got mine from there and the pipe didnt have the nipple.

thanks for appreciation ! my steps were : 1/ i did 3 coats with primer . i aloud the primer to dry approx an hr between each coat . a further hr before the coloured finish 2/ the colour finish can be applied in sections of 1 hr aswell . but you need to let it have a full dry overnight for 24 hrs . 3/ the clear enamel - gloss is the last set of coats , you need to leave it for 1 hr between coats - i did 4 final coats . but what i did was, do 2 coats , 1 hr between each , and let dry over night , and do the same - that way it dries hard . and it makes a big difference to those who rush , and do 1 coat of primer / 1 coat of colour and 1 coat of gloss . it peals in the heat n just looks shit . if you take your time - you will definitly be satisfied . as for the driver side arm rest , i think they are made to clip in and stay in sadly ! , but what i did was , if you look on the underside whilist it is positioned in . you will see 2 small clips to one long side , pop it out on an angle ! on one of the small sides there is a deep clip which needs to be push back as far as possible , then you have to snap the small side out of place . however it may snap , but it doesnt matter because it still clips in well with out any trouble . thanks ,

i tried calling around to get the correct paint to match my car - but i know its cheaper doing it the way i did it. also i didnt want it to be to bright , iv seen a lot of cars with crazy dash colours - particulary white - red - blue . all bright fluro type , and they peal and shit . it truelly ruins a good car - especially a skyline . i was persistant to do an amazing job , im truelly happy with the finish , at night it remains un noticable and in the day it sparkles like crazy .

GO TO JUSTJAP! if your in sydney . i bought a trust airinix one for $160 , then found out a month later they have imitation type ones for the like $40 . they are the half sphere ones .

close to $30 . i purchased , 1 can of primer , 1 can of metallic charcoal and 2 cans of clear gloss. i still have enough left to do other bits and pieces if i wanted to.

if you put a pod filter on , your car will become more responsive as far as sounds . the stock air box is heaps restrictive . you will get heaps of sound , and your bov will sound heaps louder . car will make a wshhhhh sound . cheers

metallic charcoal . i kept it so it matches the insides sorta

hey guys , after a couple of days of hard work and some colour decision , iv finally finished doing my dash . key element was time and patience , and its a major difference. iv done other sprays on other dash console's in the past but this really takes the cake. the difference is so suprising. on my travels i did : 3 coats of primer 3 coats of metallic charcole and about 4 coats of clear enamel probably thinking sounds like a lot of coats but - the finish is nice and hard , i made a sample peace along whilist spraying all the others , and once all coats were conplete , i tried scratching paint off and denting it , and it wouldnt budge . the finish remains hard. here are some pics , if any one needs and info or help PM - id be willing to help . cheers hope you like before primed new

do you know where i can pick up this duplicolour , is this the best preference out there? has anyone recieved good results with the vht Engine Enamels from autobarn?

yes iv read about some people using the duplicolour paints but are they primer enriched or will i need to buy a seperate can of primer? would supercheap or autobarn sell this kind of application? thanks

after spending a night or two searching through old posts about what people have done to their rocker covers in the past iv come to my conclusion of what id like to do . although im still a bit confused and after some feedback . im interested in doing a home job on my rocker cover and using the same colour for my calipers and other various engine parts. iv sanded my cover back and polished it , yet im not liking the polished look too much , im after a nice colour. now the question i have is . with both these applications am i to: 1 : apply primer before i do the coloured coat? or should i just go with the enamel? cause iv read several different posts where people say they didnt use the primer and others say its a must ? which would be better in my favour , for a better finish ? and should the paint i be using be any heat protective paint ? are most of these the same? or is there a better brand out there any info would be great as iv got some time on my hands and after being suspended on the road i can actually do a lot of these little jobs to my car ! oh and btw and PICS of those who have painted their's = themselves would be great . dont need to see polished ones though thanks for the help cheers

hence your rear garnish is clear , maybe paint it and leave the word skyline clear , and pop some LED's behind there for each letter or so , and run it off the connection of one of you lights . as you would when hooking up an electronic boost controller , that way the lights only turn on when you turn your parkers or headlights on.