Race_Bred

I agree with this, my car also suffers the same prob due to having the flutter, you'll get used to it and you will learn how not to make it stall, theres no need to snap your foot off the accelerator pedal anyhow unless you must break suddenly which happens everynow and again. if it stalls clutch start it, you will be rolling anyhow, if your good enough just play with the accelerator while the clutch is in until the revs stabilize, you'll get the hang of it

i'd be looking at the hydraulics for the clutch

you may have lips on the inside of the rotor, making it hard for the lips to go over the hand brake shoes, if this is the case you gotta get em off any way you can and remove lips or replace rotors, thats if you REALLY need to get em off

auto trans cooler? (just a guess)

you didnt slip it into reverse by any chance? 2nd to 4th or 3rd to 4th shouldnt make a difference, the noise should always be there

R33 GTST [email protected] MPH 60' 2.098 WSID

took my car into CRD today to tune my PFC mods are full 3 inch exhaust split dump pipe cold air intake just jap front mount, 12psi of boost walbro pump power fc ended up with 212.6kw at the rears

coil packs your car doesn't have leads does it?

i checked fuses in engine bay, cabin and boot, they are all good and can't find any missing i assume power to the PFC should be well because the factory computer is A-1 is it faulty? i hope not but i need to sort this out because if it is i need to get it repaired under warantee which sux as its brand spankers and i paid 1500 for the damn thing ive got it booked for a tune on thursday and i just hope they have seen this problem before and hopefully know how to fix it *fingers crossed* will do what you said in the morning paul sounds a good idea thanx for your replies guys

ive just installed my PFC running the base map un-tuned and its given extra power straight up, theres no way you can go backwards, definately take it back to them, you paid good money for the tune, be firm let them know you want it sorted out cause thats horse sh*t, or atleast get them to find out WHY its gone backwards anyways if you want help with the PFC check out this link its tops http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...rfc-faq.htm#end

perserveerence! (hope thats how it is spelt hehe)

Hi there paul, great job on the thread mate its damn helpful, ive just installed my PFC into my r33 GTST 2 days ago with the assistance of your information, the car feels a tad better than the factory computer, im saving to get a tune, hopefully with in the next couple of weeks I've noticed on start up one of the two relays which are mounted behind where the computer sits, clicks about 4-5 times as soon as i turn the reds on and the hand controller flashes with the clicks. It done the same thing the morning after the install while driving with the engine cold turning right out of my street it clicked 4-5 times and i nearly got stuck in the middle of the road, once it warms up it doesnt do it while driving, but will still do it on start up, and the hand controller works fine. I've plugged the factory computer back in just to check if the clicking still occurs and it doesn't. I also swapped the clicking relay with 3 other relays and they all done the same The clicking of the relay really has me stumped i cant think what could cause it, but its definately related to the PFC, something is switching the relay on and off really quick, any help you could give me would be fabulous and appreciated The car is not heavily modified just a full exhaust, FMIC, cold air intake, 10psi boost and a walbro 500hp fuel pump The PFC was brand spankers in the box. Thanx again.

sorry man what is a logic probe? logically speaking, you found the problem was the broken CAS shaft, that is a obvious reason why it shouldnt go.. so logically the problem is there, possibly a faulty part? or possibly but i doubt it damage to the cam gear where it meets up with the CAS

most likely its the boost controller, if it was fuel cut you would know about it

i assume u mean a test light? ive never hooked up a test light to an injector to know what it would show if u wanna check pulse you need a noid test light, it will actually show you the pulses

what are u checking injector pulse with? they must have been pulsing to let all the fuel to the plugs, if the plugs are soaked, then it will not go, you will have to replace the plugs

R33 RB25DET standard turbo running 10 PSI full 3 inch exhaust, pod filter, just jap front mount, running on 19/30/265 Nankangs atleast 50% worn (on the inside anyways) 13.648 @ 165.14 K/mh roughly 102MPH

some pumps do that, some pumps dont, the clicking would be the fuel pump relay, if you had a problem with that you would have no power at the pump

i was holding back on that question also.... people waste money to go forwards not backwards, it would be a better idea to sell the car and buy a non turbo one? instead of being down on money you will have money left over or you could even upgrade to a 33 non turbo

if you want to check that it is not low on fuel pressure, try clamping the return line and see if it will start, i assume the spark plugs are not drowned in fuel? if they are then it wont fire if the spark is good and fuel supply is good it may be worth while checking timing marks, perhaps the belt has jumped a tooth?

i know you said you have checked fuel and spark, but is this prior to it stopping or have you checked it now that it has stopped also?

It all depends on the brand of coilover, i have G4's in my car, and i lower it by twisting the base upwards (shortening the length) and raise it by twisting the base downwards (increasing the length)

it may be coming from the pedal box assembly, grab a light and stick ur head under there and see if you can see anything out of place, loose or broken

well im comparing your car to an a guy i spoke to at WSID last time i raced, he had a S15 with 230kw at the wheels, using semi slicks, and running 12.3 you'll need a good clutch to get off the line though

With slicks and a good launch off the line low 12's should be possible