Race_Bred

your symptoms sound like you have a miss fire, have you checked spark on all cylinders?

Woohooo! my first spotting! I drive the gun metal S1 with 19's, where were you?

just get the coolant that hasnt been watered down yet and keep adding it with some water until its nice and green

you'll have to pull it out and give it to an auto electrician to be repaired or recoed or replaced, either way its gotta come out

lol your kidding arent you? i asked you that man lol

ok plan B. Those little holes you circled, they are there to remove the disc if its tough, They will be a 10mm or 12 mm bolt, the bolt will have to be fairly long, and you just screw em in and they will push the disc off for you

Some discs have screws some dont, if they have em they will sit flush with the rotor inbetween wheel studs, if they havent been off in a while you'll need a good hammer, WD40 will help too, and lets not forget perserverance!

Does your car actually have a cat?

There might be screws between the studs too, they will have 2 be removed

Is the handbrake up or down? if its off just belt them inbetween the studs, they will loosen up, dont use a rubber hammer its a waste of time

dont know any performance figures for you, but the R33 has the bigger motor!

No probz!

get ur hand down there and wipe over the number, grab a light and you'll see it

im only guessing but i'd say no, theres only one way to find out

Start by buying the coilovers, then wack em in!

Try to bust the guy on the price then you have money to spend on repairs, and if its an easy fix your laughing, but no need to get jumpy, the customer is ALWAYS RIGHT, and the buyer ALWAYS has the ball in his court, be cool

time for a new turbo!

a bigger fuel pump will do the trick, you'll also need a front mount if you havent already got one, a 300ZX air flow meter, twin plate clutch, fuel pressure regulator, new dump pipe...

Wet weather is for safe driving and easy drifting, its not for putting power down to the ground, with 270 rw/kw it will be hard for any street tyre to put the power down, i say the wider the better, i have a mate with a series 2 R33 with 270 rw/kw, he uses 18x40x275 FALKENS on the rear and he still gets plenty of wheel spin go as wide as you can!

A few of you have mentioned your cars stalling, i just wanted to know, when exactly do they stall? i have a fmic, 3 inch exhaust and 10 pounds of boost, i do on average 300km per tank, filled to the top. i do give it a bit of a hard time. Anyhow, if im cruising along and have to suddenly get on the brake and put the clutch in, the revs drop too low, and sometimes it stalls, its the only time it does it, just wondering if that was a similiar stalling problem that the rest of you were having?

if you had oil in your exhaust you would know about it, it would burning the oil while you drive and smoking like a mofo, take a closer look its probably really dirty water, just some condensation, my GTIR used to do the same thing, stains all over the driveway

As long as the GTT gets a good take off then it will munch the VT, the VT is too heavy.

i too got sick of the up and down performance of my r33 gtst and decided to move the pod air filter into the bumper bar where the factory intercooler sits, obviously i have an after market front mount, i dont have any sensors hooked up for temps or anything to give some accurate readings for you all but i tell ya ive never looked back, power is up and much more reliable, its damn noticeable, best thing i ever done you just gotta be careful on those rainy days

ive seen plugs that look perfectly fine do all sorts of wierd shit throughout the rev range in jap performance cars trying to push horses, when you start going fast even the more simpler things become important the coil packs could even be breaking down, get some new plugs and regap them to 0.8mm it will reduce the load on the coil pack therefore creating a happier working environment for your tired coil packs.