TiTAN

install an oil temp guage, are oil temps going over 120-130c? if yes, install an oil cooler, if they are still going over that you should have installed a larger one.

you will find the bottom chamber will leak around the valve stem on virtually all external wastegates, once its heated up/been used a bit (carbon buildup) the shaft would become tight and restrict/stop movement of the valve.

for pulp GT3788R for a solid 400-450kw

More photos Exterior Interior

a few cars with 300 - 400kw still run the stock airbox with a quality pannel filter. if they have had further cold air intake mods i am not sure.

you can buy my whole car and have 15g left over or spend the whole 35g and then some as an idea of cost if you arent doing most of the labour on it. no real issues with it other than the normal excessive oil in the head at track days issues, but since adding a possible fix for that i havent tried it out again. there is a big difference in cost between a reliable 300kw setup and a reliable 400kw setup.

the hudraulic lifters are fine to around 8000rpm, if you wanted to push it harder than that you can (as above) Install a conversion kit to solid lifters or change to an RB26 or RB25NEO head as they have solid lifters from factory. a GT35 will get your power goals on a 3L without having to rev it super hard, (expect real boost around 3500-4000, or for the 2.7 kit, 4000-4500) mine is making almost 400kw well before its 7500rpm rev limit.

that entirely depends on how you plan to use the engine. the 3L will have nice fat low down off boost power if the 2.7 kit has full counter weighted crank its going to love to rev (not that a 3L wont rev) but you will then be held back by the RB25's hydraulic lifters

you just want to score a few hits from him. i know how you roll.

if you are going to run 98, then an intank nismo will do 400kw fine.

just go a very heavy duty organic, the most forgiving clutch perfect for someone new to manuals. if you dont plan to make more than your current 250kw then you should be able to get one.

if the bottom end hasnt blown up or started to breathe heavily, keep using it. if or when it gets tired then replace it. the stock engine is a tough little cookie.

This issue has now been fixed.

for the cost you might as well have just bought a GTR instead.

plazmaman and hypertune.

Has adjustable upper arms front and rear Stereo setup, Eclipse head unit (fairly standard cd/mp3 support), 4x mids, 4x tweeters, 1x 12" metal cone elcipse sub in custom fiberglass box (running off a 760w RMS amp) The water meth setup has a boot mounted 9.5L tank (this is enough to do quite a few laps on most tracks before you will run into surge issues (gravity feed into the pump)) few more pictures Light up "skyline" logo on the rear Water meth setup in the boot Sub/amp setup Block with the head off a few years ago.

the impeller inside is designed for reduced cavitation at high rpm, which results in lower flow at low rpm

stock standard genuine nissan is also cheaper than the N1, or at least that was the case when i was looking.

my car makes around 530rwhp, no bov. i did it for ease of passing emissions, the sound doesnt bother me and hasnt given any issues with my turbo so far and its been running since 2009, though for a fair while only at 430hp. if you dont like the noise install a bov, if you dont like the BOV sound dont install one. this topic has also been done to death over the years.

there is a small delay from when the system starts to when liquid comes out the nozzle but i have my solenoid ~1m from the nozzle.

thats similar to my setup, and i am running the solenoid.

do this. or just buy mine as its already done.

you didnt copy the part where he says he is only injecting water, ofcourse that wont change the AFR at all. you have to have the meth in there to do that.

I have a snow performance stage 2 kit with the 2.5Gal tank and the solenoid upgrade (my tank and pump are mounted in the boot) i havent had any issues with it, as a bonus the tuner said it takes a surprisingly large amount of fuel out of the map running the snow performance premix (49/51%) mine comes on at 8psi and is on full at 25psi, running 9.3:1 comp and 394kw (full specs in the for sale link in my signature) the tuner did say it was ingition limited, not knock limited. the mix with that much boost and water/meth mix in the cyl is blowing out the spark when you try to advance the timing more.

its more of a bitch if you have to go and get full emissions testing on top, which i had to do. also gets your cert over 2k and requires trips to sydney for testing.