TiTAN

would have to ask rocket industries what they are going for now. as far as how it went for me, before and after? no idea its been on there since the first tune was done as far as my power goes, its ignition system limited not knock limited. mines the Stage 2 Boost Cooler Kit but i also have the 2.5gal (9.5L) upgraded tank and the solenoid upgrade. http://www.snowperfo...ost-cooler.html http://www.snowperfo...id-upgrade.html http://www.snowperfo...-reservoir.html if you can get the nitro booster, it does actually give a seat of the pants boost to your power.

ahem. well over $27,000 so far

couple things i have realised i forgot to list in the original. it has an ASR 6.5L baffled/gated sump and aftermarket valve springs. it has a side head oil drain and and extra oil return fittings welded to the sump (everything that returns oil to the sump has its own fitting, no T pieces or Y joins)

are you sure you watched the video?

i heard you are collecting skylines now, you want to buy mine noel?

except that the owners a dick and has a GTR badge on it.

i have my old 17's you could buy if you wanted them?

lol

mine doesnt have any traction issues from 2nd you have to sort out the suspension, tyres, and how it ramps onto boost. get it all right and just because its rwd doesnt mean its all a cloud of smoke before 4th.

check out the link in my signature. it will do exactly what you are after.

now comes the part where you sell it and buy mine as its going to be cheaper in the long run

biggest mufflers that will fit. mine are 18"x12"x8" and 10"x8"x5"

the biggest issue is getting it quiet at idle/low revs with big pipes, easier with 3" than 3.5" or 4" as there isnt enough exhaust gas flowing through to make the mufflers work their best you can stick huge mufflers in it like i/you have done (mine is 4" -> 3.5") and you are fine at revs, but dont pass the idle test (which isnt applicable in the ACT (or NSW afaik) but is part of the VIC test) as that is the part of the test i assume you are failing on? or are you failing at revs?

cooling system runs around 15psi

or the line comes off where the rear heater hose goes into the block. (drivers side back of the block)

end of the mods from me. just after something that goes ok in fairly stock trim without the temptation to drop a silly amount of money into it.

if anyone local is interested, see my thread in the main for sale section. http://www.skylinesa...4-r33-gtst-act/

The car is a 1994 R33 GTST (series 1) (located in the ACT) I have owned this car since late 2006 as my daily driver, in that time it has gone from having nothing more than a pod filter and a cat back exhaust to what it is now. The car has been regularly serviced in the time i have had it, and as of right now the engine has around 6-7000km since it was refreshed (Late July 2011 (by Proengines) and was initially built in august 2009 (by proengines) after the stock RB25 spun a big end bearing). The car has ACT rego until Nov 2012 The car has been engineered for the RB25/30 conversion including all engine mods and aftermarket suspension (with full emissions testing you do not need to modify the engine in any way for rego) The paint and bodykit are completely standard except a copy GTR rear wing and light up "SKYLINE" fascia above the rear bumper. I have receipts for most of the parts or work done to the car including dyno sheets over time as it has been built up from its stock 130kw to its current 394kw Mods list (i have probably forgotten a few): Engine: RB30 series 2 Block R33 RB25DET head Forged pistons (Arias 9.3:1 CR, oversize 86.5mm bore) Cometic MLS 1.3mm Head gasket Forged rods (Eagle with ARP bolts) Grub screwed stock crank Pro Engines extended oil pump drive RB26 standard water pump RB26 N1 Oil pump External oil feed for VCT using T piece at the oil pressure sensor. ARP main studs ARP head studs ETM high mount exhaust manifold Synchronic 50mm external waste gate (plumbed back into exhaust but could be modified to a screamer without much effort) ETM 4" Dump pipe 3.5" front pipe Modified Apexi N1 3.5" cat back exhaust (this should pass RTA noise tests) 3.5” in/out 5” body 100cpi Vemom cat (i also have a 2.5" euro 3 emissions cat you can have if you want) Garrett GT3582R 0.82 AR rear housing Greddy Intake Plenum (genuine not a cheap ebay copy) Q45 90mm Throttle body 600x300x100 intercooler (3" inlet and outlet) 3" mandrel bent intercooler piping Alloy 52mm radiator 16" thermo fan ECU controlled Balanced pistons, rods, crank, flywheel. (to within 0.1 gram) ACL conrod bearings ACL main bearings Stock cams with VCT retained NGK Copper spark plugs (0.6mm gap) Yellow Jacket coil packs (also have stock coils spare) Air-conditioning has been removed however i have all the parts in a box Fuel System: Nismo 740cc injectors Bosch 044 fuel pump mounted in tank Stock fuel feed and return lines Stock fuel pressure regulator Electronics: Vi-PEC V66 Plug-in ecu (Map based, with 4BAR map sensor) boost controled by ECU + solenoid (currently running 26psi) Techedge wideband O2 sensor/gauge (hooks into the ecu for wideband o2 control) Snow performance stage 2 Water Meth injection kit (currently running 51%/49% water/meth (turns on at 8 psi, full flow at 25 psi)) Drivetrain: NISMO LMGT2 wheels 17x8 with 235/45/17 near new Federal 595 RS-R tyres on the front, 17x9 with 255/40/17 near new Federal 595 RS-R tyres on the rear (all 4 tyres replaced early feb) Tien HA coilovers (includes height adjustment spanners) Standard calipers, with slotted disks all round, EBC Yellow pads on the front and EBC Red pads on the rear JJR Adjustable upper arms front and rear Hicas Lockbar Jim Berry full monty clutch Gearbox rebuilt with new bearings, seals and synchros in 2009 as the 5th gear syncho was failing. Diff has had 4mm total worth of shims installed, it acts like a locked diff currently. Cars bad points: Paint in general is not fantastic Has had a couple of small bumps over the years (no crashes) There is a small oil leak that had recently developed (few drops after driving) Drivers seat does have a tear in the fabric The car is currently making either a clutch or gearbox noise at idle, this does not affect how it drives but have been advised not to drive it until the gearbox/clutch can be removed and checked out properly, as such it is not currently being driven. - Fixed Looking for offers of $23k or $20k if you want to take it as is (no silly offers people this car has had a lot more than that spent on it and is stupidly fast for the money) The only cars i would be interested in swaps for are: BF XR6 turbo or Nissan Stagea 260RS NO TEST PILOTS, test drives are for serious buyers only, this car is not a toy. Anything else please PM or call/sms 0419302418

16-18" x 12" x 8" rear muffler that will get your 3" exhaust legal easily if you have a decent middle muffler.

you know that car is in the projects section of this site?

Took the car to get checked out by a gearbox shop, they suggested it stop being driven at all after getting it up on the hoist and playing around with it, they feel its something to do with the clutch/pressure plate but cant say for sure until the box is out.

wakefield does have noise restrictions, there is a mic in the middle of the grass patch near the main straight.

gearbox oil is 6000km old, was changed when i put the engine back in the car. whole gearbox had a full reco about 3 years ago (~25-30,000km), all new seals, gaskets, synchros etc

1. Keeps you locked out of all the gears, no crunching it just wont let you select any at all. 2. it doesn't have any issues going in or out of gears with the clutch in normally, only on the 4 occasions that it has done that 3. it has never happened on immediate startup, the car has driven fine for a few km, then it has done it (not up to temp yet for 2 occasions but the other 2 car was at normal operating temp and had been for a bit) 4. clunking sound appears to go away during a free rev in neutral, the sound is also not there while the car is moving in gear. only while idling in neutral