TiTAN

that should be able to chirp 2nd pretty well.

my GT35 on my 3L is that responsive, try 2500-3000 for a GT30

the tomeis squash down to around 1.2-1.3mm once installed.

where abouts undercover though?

as long as you mount it so that there is no metal on metal contact the noise is fairly sedate.

its the stock one off the stock pump. fittings were from pirtek, pvc tube from clark rubber.

the noise issue can helped a lot by getting some fuel resistant PVC tube from clark rubber and using metal worm drive clamps to hold the pump to the stock bracket with the PVC between. i used to have pictures of my pump attached to the bracket but i am unsure where i put them.

anyone going to go out tonight?

because you cant fit any kind of sock to the 040 so it will only suck up fuel as low as the pump is mounted.

i have a 044 pump mounted in tank with the factory fuel sock. has been going fine for over 2 years so far. 040 pumps have a built in filter, 044 does not.

100% not stock and likely 3" cat doesnt look very high flow (), probably want to invest in a 100-200CPI 3" high flow cat

take a picture or two.

my car was just tuned with my WMI setup and as the tuner approached 400kw he started running into ignition problems. have you noticed with your setup any high rpm ignition breakdown? or has your ignition system been upgraded? (currently running yellow jackets with 0.8mm gapped BCPR7ES plugs and wasted spark in mine)

it's in the private Nsw members area. we were discussing wmi setups vs e85 power potential.

my wideband is in my front pipe ~20cm infront of the cat, it changes ~2 seconds after throttle changes which does cause a little bit of hunting at idle (low gas speed this does not apply to high load, more revs/boost the faster it is), but you also have to take into account that your ECU (unless told to) does not make BIG changes to the fuel map and most tuners wont have it operational during high load/boost anyway.

i have seen pictures of that engine on here before when it was being built. dont remember where on here though.

pretty straight forward, unplug everything wiring loom related, remove intake piping/intercooler/vac lines/radiator/clutchfan or thermos, unbolt and tie out of the way AC compressor and power steering pump, remove gearbox bolts (ones up the top are dream boats), attach engine crane, undo engine mounts from cross member, check you have everything free/clear/unplugged and remove it keep in mind the engine must come forward to get the input shaft from the gearbox out of the clutch.

for the cost of an R33 powerfc + Z32 afm more you can get the vipec plugin or link G4 plugin just saying

trackdays are a bit different, i would be checking it between sessions to get an idea how quickly its consumed.

my WMI setup turns on at 8 psi and goes to full flow at full boost, having a 9.5L water meth tank in the boot i find i only have to top it up once every 6 months - 1 year though that will increase if you are the kind of person that gets right into it every time its driven. the smaller tanks just check the level when you fill up or once a month if you arent a flat footed user (alternatively install a float switch into the tank to turn on a low level light on your dash when the tank gets down to 1/3-1/4 left) if your WMI setup supports map based turn on/off, set it to come on at 12psi or a little before and then full at your target boost, that way the WMI isnt active below that point and there is no chance the tuner will go all out relying on the WMI to keep it safe below that point, alternatively if your ecu supports it, get the tuner to setup two iginition maps and have a switch between them, one tuned without the WMI and one with it, (you could even set the switch to turn the wmi system off and on as switched)

the links one is just an off the shelf MAC valve with a sticker on it. 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA can be found on ebay as cheap as $30.

these engines are tough. if it aint broke dont fix it.

the Rally and Gymkhana events would be useless with 100,000rwkw

1/4 of the price of a profec as you only need a basic MAC valve, doesnt require any extra gadgets in the cabin, does gear specific boost/ramp corrections, intake temp corrections (eg intake temp 80c = reduced boost), water temp corrections (engine water temp of 110c = reduced boost) why you wouldn't use it is beyond me.