TiTAN

basic open loop or full closed loop control, will require dyno time to setup all the fiddly settings to get closed loop working 100% but once set it takes care of boost drops/spikes itself.

the main fault here is with the oil pump drive design. the overall contact patch being far too small and few, the 2JZ design with multiple splines is a far better solution as it spreads all the jack hammering effects over the whole gear not just 2-4 points on the nissan design.

what knock is the powerfc showing on the hand controller? 60+ will flash the check engine light is the engine water temp getting to 100+? this will also bring the check engine light on. does your exhaust still have the cat temp sensor? from memory in the R32 this detecting the exhaust is too hot will turn on the check engine light.

i hacked up my apexi N1 system to get it to a legal noise level and remove the 3" section from just after the cat so my exhaust starts at 4" off the turbo and is a true 3.5" all the way from the end of the dump back to where it exits the car. to boot its only marginally louder than a stock system and good for an easy 300+kw, so nice for cruising around town too as there is no intrusive exhaust noise the stereo has to overpower all the time. loud exhausts only bring more attention to you and your car from all the wrong people and then you complain that they pick on you for everything they can (not saying the OP, just in general) or maybe im just old and cant be bothered dealing with all that crap for no good reason.

you could just stick to the rules to begin with and have it fully engineered, saves on defects. my car has all documentation including an RTA performed emissions test showing it meets all their requirements which unless you are being a complete dick to the cop or they are on a power trip gets you back on your way fairly promptly. the emissions test will be to what ever ADR required for the year your car was manufactured unless you have a crappy system like VIC that decided ADR was silly and made their own on top. exhaust system compliance is basically number of cats the car came with or more and below the required ADR noise level for that year of manufacture. (more than likely 91db or less)

these are turbo motors with half decent power to begin with. i am sceptical its going to make much of an improvement. though happy to see tested gains on a real dyno not a pants dyno. running without the alternator and charging the battery off mains is just moving where you get the energy to your electricity bill same as entirely electric cars, most of our power is off coal/gas power stations to begin with so hardly much cleaner.

that would be more to do with the increased compression, but thats a topic for an entirely different thread.

if powers an issue run a bigger/better turbo instead. its not like these are tiny capacity NA cars that need as much help as they can get to make a few HP

would bolt on but wouldnt give much improvement at all.

why not just setup the thermo fans properly on a temp controlled switch so they are only on when required instead

they do shut it off. it hurts top end power if its not shut off.

for the people that have done flex fuel setups using decent boost levels are your 98 or close to maps just done with a lot of timing pulled out or is the boost dependant on ethanol%? assuming any of the ecus support that kind of setup?

and what about the wheel alignment after you put them in?

let me know when you get the bits cut/bent for me and work out postage costs.

if the housings arent damaged a new core (inc wheels) is about $1100

if you are talking about the R33_racers race car, that was a 3L already.

the R35 from the factory has proper launch control (full boost before you even start moving) not to mention the larger displacement and much newer tech but it does have a lot of KG on the 32. without actually doing the test you cant say for sure though.

Federal 595 RS-R tyres + tein HA coilovers (set pretty soft as far as they will allow) no camber in the rear. There is a dynosheet floating around somewhere on here (probably in the RB30 section)

my GTST with GT35 will let go in 3rd at anything under 100km/h if i ramp the boost on hard. i take it you have never been in a 300+kw GTST

sent you a PM rich

mines on either 10-40 or 10-60

guilt toy had a plazmaman on his RB30 while it was in the R33. it fit fine, not sure if his subframe was spaced down or his engine mounts slotted. mine has a greddy on it.

for the most part its not a track, its a public toll road. you pay the toll and you drive your lap.

http://www.erd.com.au/

is the passenger floor damp? if it is, faulty heater core.