TiTAN

another thing that may be an issue, the 3" exhaust is going to start to be a restriction if you push that turbo

they make no guarantee that it will be legal DB wise, they are also well out of the budget $ wise.

getting a cold?

sell it and buy one with the work already done, cheapest way to make power.

5 months for a loud exhaust?

you need 600+cc injectors for the power you have said.

Mine died like yours recently. turned out to be a faulty wire in the loom. if all the basic checks turn out ok its something to dig deeper into.

semi slicks (federal 595RS not some cheater R comps), 15psi in 1st (holds on fine to redline unless its sub 10c outside at which point there is nothing i can do make it hold), 2nd 17psi, 3rd 17psi to 4500 and 20 psi to redline, 4th & 5th 20 psi. i run 0 camber on the rear with fairly stiff coilovers (however they are set a lot softer on the rear) if i change the boost ramp so it goes from nothing to full 20 psi from 2500-3500 it will let go in 3rd at 100km/h no problem, amusing but that doesnt make for a quick car or long tyre life, with my setup like that a stock turbo @ 200kw is faster to almost any legal speed for the street as there is zero traction without babying it or shifting early in every gear. as for the turbo room42, GT35/GT35R/3540/3582/3582R = same thing.

its all in the boost ramp, 235's hold with my gt35.

you got the 5 bar sensor in your ecu yea? crank some serious boost into it and see what it makes.

stock exhaust manifold + spacer plate + internal wastegate 3076 with the 0.5 AR compressor not the 0.6 AR + high pressure large can actuator.

they were posted in the RB30 thread.

should be interesting to see how early it hits 200 wasps.

the 25/30 doesn't lose out in top end power vs the 25neo, they make more power down low, bring the boost on sooner and end up with the same power up top

any DB measurements or sound samples?

just plain old supercheap one. E85 will reduce the carbon buildup as is.

twin thermo fans instead of clutch radiator fan - anyone had experience with any of these? reccomendations?- i run a single 16" thermo on a 50mm radiator, never had any cooling issues be it on the track or in traffic (standard temp thermostat) remote oil filter with cooler and thermostat - consider getting a thicker PWR radiator with built in oil cooler as i don't see an aftermarket radiator listed anywhere and it will also act as an oil warmer when its cold. Expect full boost around 4k or a bit after with a GT35 (assuming 0.82 housing size) and capable of 360-380kw a little more if you push it hard. Noel (fineline) had good results with a GT3788R (T4 twin scroll). Capable of 400+kw with only a little bit more lag than the GT35, but the crucial part is that it uses the large frame turbo core where as the GT35 uses the smaller core like the GT30 series which isn't as strong. Otherwise if you want a fairly responsive setup that's got some chance of traction on street tyres (being rwd) the GT30 setup is a good choice, be it normal GT or GTX series.

a map sensor relies on the overall setup staying within a small margin of difference, a different turbo is not a small change to the system. get your tune checked it could be massively out. on my car the difference made by having it tuned with VCT off and turning VCT on in some points made what was 14:1 now 15-16:1 AFR.

map sensor + turbo change + no tune = silly. map sensor has no way of knowing airflow like an AFM system and a turbo change will throw the tune out.

he did manage to pull over 400 on the RB25. topped out at 429kw from memory?

3L engines have made 400kw on the 0.82 housing before but getting a 0.82 housing to 400 is loading a fair whack of boost into the thing.

RB30 engine with the same turbo setup he had on the RB25.

very little, basic clean up (just taken any burs out), stock valves and stock R33 25DET cams

turbo should give you that. im on a GT35 and make 200kw at 3800-3900