TiTAN

esp is one of the slightly higher reading dynos in town if you were thinking its a low reader?

no the old ones are cut off/removed and the new ones welded on.

1.8bar or more? also need a sample of the 4" exhaust running.

3 vents on the intake side of the sump?

there is a simple fix, take out the turbo timer and instead just dont thrash it all the way to where you are going to park it.

a better cooler and exhaust would have given him more power on the stock boost than turning the boost up a few psi with nothing else done to the car.

All good again, replaced a short section of two of the CAS wires and it runs perfectly.

Borrowed another CAS an ignitor from trozzle this morning, still no kick with them on. Pulled the cas off with the ignition on and turned it by hand manually, injectors fired but no spark, moved the sensor around and i got spark and fuel, move the sensor again and back to just injectors. So i have a break in one of the wires for the CAS, will look at trying to find which wire is causing issues and see if that gets it going again.

anything that size is going to be a tight fit on the stock manifold, you will have to rotate the housings to make it fit properly.

that will still make very similar power to the other version, there isnt much difference in them power wise

No not yet. I am waiting to rule out the CAS and ignitor as problems, failing that it has been suggested to me that it could be an ecu fault or a short somewhere in the loom (neither of which i really want it to be) a little bit but it could be a build up of carbon from all the failed starting or just one of those random high readings. the tester i used can only be done up hand tight and relies on a rubber O ring to seal around the spark plug hole, could that effect it? maybe.

having had my pod where yours is before, you will notice an improvement in power if you get it away from there and into the corner where it can get non radiator/exhaust manifold heated air.

compression test results are 3 posts up. its a 7 day old engine. it was only just rebuilt and its a forged engine with all the nice bits and pieces.

even with the throttle opened it doesn't start. which it would if it was just the idle control valve not working. as for the high tension lead into the coil, that never occured to me but at this point im happy to just wait untill i can get my hands on a known working cas and ignitor to test.

Fuel pressure, when priming steady 45psi, when cranking 40psi Compression results. (cold and dry test) 1. 160 2. 175 3. 170 4. 160 5. 160 6. 160 tried a timing light on it but it didnt seem compatible with the coilpack setup sparkplug would spark but no flash from the timing light. will hopefully borrow another cas on the weekend and test with that see if that gets it going.

As with the compression and fuel pressure tests i wont be able to do them until i can get my hands on the tools (hopefully i can borrow them monday night) Just tried different plugs with the same coil packs and then with different coil packs, no difference.

dont have the tools on hand to check those at the moment. Yes i am, always have done. the half moons are still in place. Checked the line from engine to ECU all still firmly attached, map readings go up and down if pressure/vac is applied to the engine side of the line and i also checked for leaks, line holds pressure fine.

all intake/cooler pipes are on and secure, i did check the spark plugs and they look fine (they are only 6 days old, as is the whole engine, setup had been working perfectly up until today). map sensor readings looked normal, but i can double check tomorrow. i checked and fuel flow is fine so unlikely to be the filter, pumped out 1L in a few of seconds of priming.

Even if the AAC valve is stuck shut i was driving when it initially cut out/stalled not stationary/idling and when it did start while holding the throttle open it also stalled with the throttle open not closed. It cranks normally, but doesnt fire/pop/splutter/anything. The ECU is MAP based so no AFM, MAP sensor is giving a signal to the ecu 25/30 but that shouldn't make any difference. har har

As i was driving the car around this morning the engine died and i couldnt restart it, since getting it towed home i have done the following checks. I have checked and it is getting spark, the guts of the ignitor look fine The injectors are getting fuel to the rail and they are firing (removed the rail/injectors and cranked engine over, fuel pump does the pre crank prime too) Throttle position sensor is reading correctly, i can only assume the CAS is working correctly as spark and fuel are being triggered in the correct order. Fuses have all been checked and are all OK. Timing belt marks all line up but even skipping 2 teeth it would still start. Pressing the throttle to about 50% while cranking did get it started once, i moved the revs between 2000-3000 but as i was doing that it died after about 5 seconds of running (AFR was showing 11.4:1 at the time). I have no idea what on earth else it could be. Any ideas?

6boost around the $1100 mark from memory.

performance wise it makes no difference.

get it tuned for more boost, 300kw is nothing for a set of -5's

High mount ^^ Low Mount ^^