TiTAN

go the $1000 manifold, if you get something cheap it will crack and cause you problems which either means you spend the same money getting someone to fix it in the end. the good designs from the $1000 manifolds also help turbo response, but at the end of the day if you are the type that thinks ebay parts are great and worth the money there is nothing we can say to make you think otherwise. Cheap Reliable Fast pick two.

check out the RB30 dyno thread for AL's car, GT3076 320rwkw and only a little more lag than the stock turbo on the RB25. that being said, the RB30 is not as simple as just dropping it in, you have to modify bits and pieces to make it all work. the stock RB25 with again the GT3076 is still a pretty responsive setup (full boost ~3500rpm vs ~2500 in the RB30) and a whole lot easier/simpler to get legal.

i have talked with Difilippo and they will do custom size 4" in and out mufflers in stainless quoted at $400 rather than a take what size is closest to what you want off the shelf.

visually? no. is the solenoid plugged in? if you unplug it does the car drive a bit doughy?

lol is all that needs to be said. -5's on 28psi should push 400kw and can be done on a 1mm standard headgasket, all a 1.8mm one is going to do is make an engine that was already pretty crap off boost even worse.

if you want one made pm the user risking on here he may already have a design to suit.

a mist firing into a blade turning at 50,000rpm does more damage than you think.

as above. leave the setup there for a while and it will slowly destroy your turbo's.

the ones shown there look like GTR mounts to me.

you may not want to do the diesel thing, it does have the potential to end badly. if its been sitting around for ages you could strip the engine down and get it chemically cleaned by an engine builder.

my engine has both the head oil return and the sump vent with another step being all external drains having their own dedicated fitting to the block or sump. hasn't been started yet since doing the modifications but should fix my issue with the sump emptying into the catch can at the track.

i wouldnt be pushing the hydraulic lifters more than 8000rpm either way thats a lot more stress on the rods/rod bolts than 7000rpm is (its an exponential load/force increase not linear)

- Extra oil drain in the back of the head plumbed directly to the sump put one in the side of the head instead. like so (or even do both if you want to go that far however the drain at the rear of the head sits rather high and doesnt drain a whole lot of oil as a result) while you probably saw it earlier in the thread, i have the 9.2-9.4:1 CR pistons and CR comes back at 9.3:1, saves grinding a whole heap of meat off the head to bring the CP pistons up to the desired CR ARIAS Suit RB30/26 p/n= AP332104 10.6cc dome top 21mm pin 1.280" compression height Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm). COMPRESSION RATIO 9.2-9.4 Suit RB30/25 p/n= AP332105 13cc dome top 21mm pin 1.280" compression height Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm). COMPRESSION RATIO 9.5-9.8

if you are worried about the tune back the timing off a bit. no point building the engine unless it pops if you are sticking to a smaller turbo. its just money that can be saved for IF it happens.

if you go for one of the quieter exhausts it shouldnt scream out for trouble with the epa.

i noticed my ETM manifold gave it more of a deep throaty sound. (very similar design to the 6boost)

4" exhaust on a GT30 is silly, a 3" or 3.5" is fine. 4" is for 400kw+

^^^^^ this here has a hotdog muffler and a cannon on the back, it would be loud/well over legal. ^^^^^ This one has an oval centre muffler and a cannon on the back, it would not be as loud/close to legal. that is what it sounds like you are after, if you go to a performance shop or an exhaust shop and tell them that you want something like that they should be able to supply you with something to suit.

Oil restrictors 1x 1mm 1x 1.5mm, if you can run additional oil drains directly to the sump rather than into a T fitting on the turbo drain you are better off doing it that way (DRAINS always to the exhaust side of the engine, VENTS from the intake side, drains to the intake side are nowhere near as effective) (i will be able to get pictures of my block to demonstrate this later this week) i have 4 fittings welded to the sump to take extra drains/vents (2 x head to sump and 2x sump - catch can) the extra oil drain in the head is from between cyls 3 and 4 and is a grub screw, there hasn't been much talk about this drain until recently and unlike the one from the back of the head it is low enough that it will be an aid in returning oil to the sump rather than just a crank case breather.

to fit the RB26 head studs you need to drill out and retap the block as they are 12mm, RB25 ones are a direct replacement

if you want it to be fairly tame noise wise any of the offerings that have 3" piping and an oval centre muffler (not a hotdog) will be fine.

if weight is a big issue, why not go with an alloy blocked engine instead? a 240 isnt exactly a big heavy car something like a 2.2L stroked SR20 would keep the weight down and danm near if not make it mid engined.

if duncan is going to be there get him to go around with you/take your car for a few laps so you can see what lines you should be talking and where to brake etc. having an experienced person there for your first few outings is a must have.

surely your car can put a 1:20 to shame, mine did a 1:13 with a waste-gate that wouldn't open because the lines melted and split (still managed to send boost off the end of the boost gauge ) id like to be in for this. see how i go (few things to blow $$ on before it hits the track again) http://www.skylinesa...ser/95-andymac/ (guy was at the last day and is the previous owner of my car would likely be surprised that the exterior hasn't changed apart from a different front bar)

no chance of splash back with the dvd. its a win win.