TiTAN

when you say 5L i assume it doesnt have any kind of remote filter/oil cooler then?

are you running the map sensor off of two intake runners or one? if you are only running it off of one of them you need to change it ie use runners 3&4 (after the throttle plates) as it uses individual throttles and the runners are so short you wont get a stable map signal at low throttle on just one runner = shit low down drivablility.

while its possible to make the power you are after with that turbo you might as well take the turbo off completely and not bother replacing it as it wont come on boost untill 5000+rpm before losing all traction and needing to change gear. a 0.6x exhaust housing on a big turbo is still massive for a little RB20. Read this and it will explain a lot to you http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0312_turbo_tech_science_selection/compressor_turbine_housing.html

Everyone i have talked to has said you need at minimum a 100mm thick intercooler with 3" in and out. OEM RB26 intake is fine as is Valve springs may be an issue, see if you start to get float during tuning or change them now if you are worried

think about it this way, its the same as hammering a nail into your wall to hang a picture frame with a sledge hammer.

its also still not P plater legal as its then a modified car even if its not turbo anymore. it will have all the guts of a suzuki alto with none of the sub 1 ton advantages.

removing the turbo to fit another one or removing the turbo to try and use it on your P's? if its the second one its retarded and will run like arse.

any saved weight is a good thing for a track car.

bodykits just add extra weight and reduce ground clearance

fixed also why?

you will find two of the three are not on the market.

can i get some fries with that?

it was probably developed for use in the Z-tune engine

dont know if my car will be running.

im not sure what the legalities would be though as a cat doesnt work unless its hot and a screamer doesnt have hot exhaust running through it all the time.

balance the 30 crank and put a decent balancer on it and lots of people spin them to 9000. its a myth that when built they cant rev.

i have seen it done, a guy put a muffler on his screamer pipe a few years ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/209139-quiet-screamer-pipe

higher is possible on E85 (330-360) and expect 300-330 on 98 boost will be over 20psi.

stay clear of the non garrett housings.

you want 500hp but dont want to spend more than 3c on it, sell it and buy something with a v8 instead.

because he said shell had fleas.

the links and vipecs already have support for them coded in, the catch is that they cost from $300-600 for the sensor.

it doesnt work that way. octane doesnt change the volume required. E85 physically requires 30% or so more fuel for the given power vs petrol. running 98 on an e85 tune is going to be driving around at 10:1 or so (fubar the plugs in 5-10 mins) you will not find massive difference in the octane rating from E70 to E85 in terms of detonation tune for E85 and drive on it year round be it from E70 or E85.

slightly off topic but someone has it out for you with the +- comments rating thing, up to -200 now