TiTAN

stuck a camera down the sparkplug holes. bores still have hone marks visible, cant see any signs of damage to the piston heads. we dont have a leak down tester that gives measurements, though we lined them all up a TDC and put ~100psi into each cyl. all cyls had a little leakage on intake and exhaust (very small amount could be heard leaking out), none of the cyls gave any bubbles in the coolant however with the oil filler cap off there was a fairly audible amount of air coming out though i am not sure how much should be leaking out from there if everything is fine. as far as the valve guides go, i am not sure though the valve stem seals were replaced in 2008

did a basic compression test this afternoon/evening 150-160 across the board. took the throttle body off and the intake plenum is clean with only a tiny bit of oil residue just after the throttle but thats it. will give the leak down test a go assuming we have a tester that will do it. it was all working fine with no real oil usage to speak of, sat in the garage defected for 9 months and now it uses heaps

no v160 getrag?

over the past month my engine has used a couple of litres of oil (forged built engine, no visible leaks). i have been told that i get pufs of oil smoke when i back off at mid to high revs and the catch can was putting out a fair bit of vapour, but is not filling up with oil and deffinately not a couple litres of it (could this be caused by E85 or is it likely other issues?). it was setup with the PCV blocked off but that has been connected again and i have noticed a significant reduction in vapour from the catch can though the oil usage is still there. The engine is fairly noisy when cold but once up to operating temp doesnt seem any louder than the old engine was. it idles smoothly and doesnt feel like its lost any power its just started drinking oil.

hydraulic tail gate to get the car in/out?

stock GTR 440's would get him just shy of/where he is now.

if that is a 0.63 GT35 340kw should be a walk in the park even more power if its the bigger housings.

i did some measuring this afternoon, on an R33 you can fit a 16" x 8" x 5" centre in offset out middle muffler and leave reasonable ground clearance. the rear muffler can be 16-18" x 12" x 8"

even in NSW if they are good they charge heaps and take 3 hours each way to get there.

talk to pat, we got mine running pretty good in a couple hours.

my RB30 is engineered and emissions legal according to NSW and ACT requirements (car is from 94) and the emissions components of the engine dont change from the RB25, so its required to meet the 1994 emissions levels which are far more relaxed than euro 3 & 4. i am not sure if the VIC system treats them differently.

all the info you could possibly need on this topic is in the RB30 subforum. NA pistons with high comp on the single cam = ok turbo pistons for the single cam = too low compression

he may be reffering to a compound setup however its just not cost effective when its going on a bog standard car.

custom twin turbo manifolds to suit 25 head + 2860-9 turbos or for the same power level stick an internal gate GTX3071R/GT3076R on the standard RB25 manifold for much less $$$$

the more free flowing the better as far as turbos go.

3" from the turbo back for the best results, a 3" cat back is purely for noise not performance.

it depends what you want, if you want it louder an oval muffler isnt what you are after.

internal/external gates are exactly the same to engineer as long as they are plumbed back into the exhaust before the cat. Ash, if the car is registered in another state do the harsh vic EPA rules still apply? highmounts + gate = tasty?

still rocking the NSW rego plates.

use a tap set and tap the thread to the next size up bolt.

i had a nap and managed to not wake up bright red.

top secret.

that cat may do the job or it may not, when it comes to emissions do it once and put the highest rated emissions cat in there that you can to give yourself the best chance of passing. Talk to your exhaust shop, they will be able to source/supply a cat to suit It MUST state that it is euro 3 or euro 4 emissions compliant these cats are NOT going to be designed for performance they are designed to clean up emissions.

for the purposes of an emissions test you want a fairly new cat (one thats designed to meet euro 3 or 4 requirements) thats going to be as clean as possible, a 20 year old stock cat is not going to cut it. if you cant weld an exhaust shop will need to do the work for you.

is it the cat that came with it? replace it with an XR6 turbo cat if you can get one otherwise i passed on a euro 3/4 generic 2.5" cat.