TiTAN

you dont need it because your ecu doesnt have the extra features to make use of it like his aftermarket one does. Troy its to enable the flat shift and launch control functions. the wiring needs to be changed to get it wired up to the ecu though as i am not sure where it goes factory but the car runs fine without it.

the engine cant be older than the car, however as it covers in the thread ash linked all the emissions relevant gear is part of the head/external to the engine itself. so as long as the head is not of an older series than that which came with the car its ok in that respect.

that button/switch is not required and the car will work fine without it. yours on the other hand needs to work and be wired into your ecu troy

you get them off ebay for the copy versions. i <3 my genuine one.

i have been running it for the past 2 years, you can get some excelent cruise econ running 15.5-16:1 with very low throttle i just emailed the file to you as i dont have them at work.

narrow band closed loop aims for 0.5v which is 14.7:1 and is only used during light load/cruise, you can not use it to accurately aim for other ratios much beyond that, wideband closed loop aims for what ever afr you tell it to and can work even when you are using 100% throttle @ 7000rpm if you want. if you want i can give you the map from my ECU Pat and you can take a look.

if he has the plugin one, it should have narrowband hooked up already. if they havent turned it on its a 2 min job with a laptop.

i do have wideband closed loop going, i mean for trozzle. thats what the ECU needs to know to use it.

as long as it has 0-5v output and it tells me what AFR 0v is and what AFR 5v is i can hook it up to the ecu and get wideband closed loop going.

does it have a 0-5v output for the ECU? http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm this one is 411 + delivery if you get the 2j9 + 7200 sensor + LA1 52mm display thats the updated version of mine and outputs to the ECU flawlessly.

i can install it if you want. Pat, it can do wideband closed loop or use the stock narrow band one.

dying fuel pump probably. the stock reg is good for well over 300kw. get injectors that are sized for what you want rather than running silly rail pressures.

i got two.

its sealed, but with some patience and a sharp knife you can work your way round and pry it open.

Its changed a little since this photo was taken, but its mostly the same.

mine wasnt working, pulled it appart and checked for dry joints. if you are handy with a soldering iron its potentially a cheap fix.

someone with a TIG welder should be able to weld that up for you, pressure test it afterwards to make sure its not leaking.

cutting the reo is ilegal, bending it is not.

i got my car idling/free reving with safe AFR's yesterday afternoon in the driveway. cant do much more than that without any rego however. i found i needed to increase my fuel map near 40% to get it to idle at anything near reasonable afr and it was idling super rich on 98 (it was ~15:1 but the injectors were dirty and once cleaned it went to around 11:1)

saying my car has 100kw @ 1500 isnt as impressive as my car has 400nm @ 1500. end of the day these cars arent being sold to us, they are being sold to people that will rarely ever rev higher than 3000rpm and could care less what the power figure is as long as it has a fancy badge, nice seats, and a comfortable ride.

a friend has had a 3076 on his JZA80 for a while now, its a great setup you lose a little boost response vs the stock twins but gain a meaty midrange and its so smooth onto power.

Al's dyno sheet and mods list is in the RB30 dyno results thread. It may be easier to give greg a call.

how did you go? i didnt hear back so assumed you didnt have time to get it done.

if it supports narrowband output you can put the signal into the powerfc, its not going to be any more accurate than a new narrow band sensor though as the powerfc does not support wideband O2 sensors. as a side note, the guages you can buy that tell you what your factory narrow band sensor is outputting are a waste of money and space. any good wideband will have gauge options that you can buy for them that actually tell you something useful and accurate.

why not just get a standard high flow cat from ebay etc? like a 120CPI?