the next step up is the GT35, in 0.82 form it will do 350-380rwkw.
that is going to be very laggy on a little RB20, you will have ~1000-2000rpm of full boost before you have to change gear again. if its just to get the number is it really worth it?
oil wont spew out, just losen it and put it on properly. if the oil cant drain from the turbo it will build up pressure in the turbo and start making its way past the seals leaving you with an engine that drinks oil and puffs lots of smoke when you give it a boot full.
are you making adjustments for the injectors and the AFM's if they arent stock? if you can try your ecu in another car and rule that out as the faulty item i would try that before you go nuts with the multimeter checking sensors.
here is keirons car thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ke...-W-t282550.html
depends when you start and if you have all the right tools, morning should see the turbo etc all removed ready for the replacement. afternoon is for new parts.
have you done a factory reset/restore on the powerfc? do you have a wide band O2 sensor/guage? if its running massively rich or too lean you can keep it running with the throttle but it wont idle. (what mine did when the ECU was first installed)
if you are that worried, just get a siemens ethanol content sensor (like what the flex fuel cars run) you can wire this into the vipec and have the fuel map tuned as a 3D map (revs vs boost vs ethanol content)
if the AFM voltage gets close to maxing out by default the PFC will flash the check engine light.
generally it will happen in every higher gear as well (as they put the engine under more load) rather than only in one specific gear if it is over a large RPM band
there are a couple of things that make the check engine light flash. you need the hand controler or a laptop interface for the ecu to check if its the AFM voltage or its picking up knock, either way dont keep making it do it untill you can check what it actually is.