TiTAN

my whole bottom end was balanced to within 0.1 gram. when you start spinning things around at thousands of RPM the G forces make a little bit of a difference into a big difference.

1.3kg = 19psi

convenient in that they just plug directly into the ecu and are controlled by the hand controller, it is essentially the apexi AVCR solenoid. you then get the boost control functionality in the powerfc, setup wise you just tell the powerfc what boost pressure (in bar) you want to run and it does the rest for you. the downside being if you want to run more boost than the map sensor it is bundled with can read it wont let you do it, if someone has one installed and can check (i used to have one when i had a powerfc but never bothered to check as it was only the stock turbo) what the max boost it allows you to set is. keeping in mind if you plan to run more than that you need something else instead.

link computers have been, that model hasnt.

not to nit pick but they were a combined effort, both are the original. its just that link do all the actual manufacturing.

it is supposed to be quite stiff, though you should be able to open a stock one by hand if you push hard enough.

Being 4" makes it hard any muffler you get off the shelf is going to have been designed for a truck/generic truck uses unless its custom, though you need some size to the mufflers to get any real DB reduction out of them. I would/will be (when i get to it) going as big a middle muffler as you can fit (something oval shaped, keeping in mind 10cm ground clearance so it needs to hug the body pretty well) and a custom muffler for the rear thats as large as they can make fit in the space. If you go overkill from the start you can always make it louder later on but having to modify it multiple times because it isnt quiet enough gets expensive. NSW is harder than ACT as you need to be 91db or less from idle to 4500rpm (or what ever they test to), ACT you just need to be 91 or less at the test RPM.

getting the car engineered then dave? or are you still going track only?

the link/vipec computers can use the Siemens E85 ethanol content sensor, trent might be interested to have a play around with one and see how it works?

thats gunmetal

yes you can use the old dump, mark the dump so you know how it lines up, chop it, fit both halves to the car, measure the gap and weld in required size piece to fill it.

you cant beat the stock supras for response, full boost at 1500rpm then a bit of a surge around 4500 where the second turbo comes on.

i know for a fact that a nice big 16x11x8" muffler will fit on the back of an R33, combined with the decent sized mid muffler you have now that should take a lot of the noise out, i know on a turbo skyline one of them mufflers and a hotdog will get a 3" exhaust to legal levels. (as mine is a 16x11x6 + hotdog mid muffler and reads 89db @ 4000, 92db @ idle) Being NA it will be a bit harder to make quiet but you can always go a custom huge muffler if off the shelf sizes dont take enough out.

uber resonators? exhaust way too loud?

i would disagree with the -5 turbos being too small for a 3L, the high octane R34 is running them to great effect and would be the setup i would use had i had a GTR (My gtst is running a 3L with a 3582 and gives ok response for around town and easily enough flow to spin it up to my 7500rpm limit, the -5's offer even more flow than the GT35 does, though acceptable response varies greatly with the user). i feel the -7/-9 turbos would be the bare minimum you should go for with the 3L (or slightly larger capacity setups), as they have similar flow to a GT3076 which is about as small as you can go without choking the top end and should keep making power to 8000rpm if you want to spin it that hard Too small is the stock RB25 turbo, it falls over badly at ~5000-5500rpm, any stock RB26 setup should actually cope with the 3L without creating massive backpressure though sticking the stock 26 setup on a fresh 3L+ engine is hardly worth the trouble.

You need to get the numbers off the garrett tag where the oil/water lines go to the turbo. they will tell you exactly what it is.

lol. all the spam threads are empty.

thread is broken yea?

sure in a twin setup you could use the 0.63 but for a single setup stick with the 0.82 or the 1.06 (the 1.06 should make more power at lower boost from memory, though its ~400-500rpm more lag than a 0.82 so expect it to be on ~20psi at around 4000rpm with a good setup)

pm Zebra. he is looking for a stock turbo.

I like the Advan RS wheels, afaik they are the one of the lightest wheels on the market, on the down side their price reflects that. http://www.advanwheels.com.au/wheels/wheel.aspx?id=1

no mention of the many brake kits you have had?

the v2 would be better to run but more fiddly to setup. you can set it up to work under which ever of the below conditons you want. RPM: Low and High settings (so it only operates between X and X RPM) %Throttle: so if it goes over this % it will deactivate %Throttle Delta: this will turn it off under sudden stabs of the accelerator if setup (e.g. going from cruise to WOT) MAP: High and Low settings so it will only operate between X and X kpa MAP Delta: transient pressure change (e.g. coming onto boost) Engine temp: closed loop control will not turn on untill the engine is at X degrees Timer: this disables closed loop for XX seconds after the engine has started, this ignores all the other settings and gives the sensor a chance to heat up before closed loop activates. if you dont want a particular condition to have any effect on it set them to be outside normal operation conditions so if you didnt want the throttle % to turn it off set it to 0%

The ecu will try and stay as close to the target AFR as it can be it 12:1 or 16:1 I am using the Tech Edge 2J1 (replaced by the 2J2) and the vipec plugin ecu, with the wideband closed loop the car acts just like normal closed loop except that its idling and cruising leaner than it would normally (though it doesnt have to) mine normally idles and cruises at ~15.5:1, though you could go even leaner to save more fuel. V2 looks to have more control when the AFR is out by large ammounts as it can vary the amount of fuel it adds or subtracts based on how far off the desired AFR it is. (smaller more precise amounts when its only a little off and larger less precise amounts when its a long way off)

i assume you are reffering to wideband closed loop if so, yes they can do this. the link/vipec can do both narrow and wideband closed loop O2 control, as long as your wideband supports a narrowband output (like most of the WBo2 units) you could run either wideband or narrowband using just one sensor. one of the bigger issues is running a wideband sensor so close to the back of a turbo (if it were to be run in the stock location) is that the sensor will get very hot and it probably wont last long, keeping in mind most bosch wideband sensors are ~$100 to replace, this may not be much of an issue to you.