TiTAN

my 25/30 is running 2x 1.5mm oil feeds + the vct feed, standard drains with an N1 pump. oil pressure once warm is using 10w-40 (also does the same with a peak of 6.5kg using 10w-60) 2kg @ idle 4kg @ 2000 6kg @ 3000+ and holds 6kg to 7500 that works out to be ~90psi from 3000-7500. i know when cold my engine does breathe a fair bit (just air no real oil to it) but it gets much better once its all warmed up and with the catch can on for ~3 months of driving (inc some decent thrashing) i got about 200-300ml of oil in there.

not officially.

you need to do what paul has said, or get an oil pressure sensor with a known voltage vs pressure scale.

dont encourage him to do that, he is in our group, that means less track time for us.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html read through that, it covers most things to look for.

50/50 petrol and methanol?

play around with tourismo on the track, you should be similar if not his a little faster on the straights

so they have just confirmed what everyone has been saying for ages, ban low performance drivers not high performance cars.

if you put ghey lights like that on it you will be banned from sau.

its the body of the cat, not the size of the flanges on it.

you are more than likely hearing the induction noise a pod filter makes. perfectly normal.

multiple immobilisers and no fuel rail. mine isnt going anywhere under its own power.

talk to tonba perhaps?

what plugs? what gaps? how rich is it running/ what afr is it at during cruise/idle

just get a good aftermarket cat, there are lots out there to choose from.

it is, but who in their right mind would put a baby in the back of a skyline.

I support them 100% 2226 92.5% I do not support them at all 166 6.9% Partially Support them 12 0.5% I don't have an opinion 2 0.1%

i failed the warm run and its to heat up your cat not your o2 sensors. They failed a stock VS commodore i had because the brake lights werent reflective enough, not a oh you might want to do something about that a flat out fail. it was the only thing they wrote on the sheet as wrong too.

so close, back out into the cold and get it running

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...r/faqs.html#t10 How does a Wastegate work? A Wastegate is simply a turbine bypass valve. It works by diverting some portion of the exhaust gas around, instead of through, the turbine. This limits the amount of power that the turbine can deliver to the compressor, thereby limiting the turbo speed and boost level that the compressor provides. ◦The Wastegate valve can be "internal" or "external". For internal Wastegates, the valve itself is integrated into the turbine housing and is opened by a turbo-mounted boost-referenced actuator. ◦An external Wastegate is a self-contained valve and actuator unit that is completely separate from the turbocharger. ◦In either case, the actuator is calibrated (or set electronically with an electronic boost controller) by internal spring pressure to begin opening the Wastegate valve at a predetermined boost level. ◦When this boost level is reached, the valve will open and begin to bypass exhaust gas, preventing boost from increasing.

see if it performs how you think its going to, if it still doesnt have enough low down grunt stick a 30 bottom end on it.

i was going to comment on your clutch master cyl being mounted so high up, then i remembered it was only a 25

if it doesnt appear to be hurting the power dont bother, if it collapses later you can do it then.

they do make you do emissions tests, the engineer is making me get one, and its a trip to sydney as they cant do it here.