TiTAN

pre turbo injection does have its down sides, wear on the compressor blades is the main one. i run mine ~15-20cm from the throttle body.

send Fineline a PM, he is building a nice solid lifter RB25 head at the moment for his car.

and he has to take the street R33

painting the turbo compressor covers and heat shields to match?

Rocket industries resell the snow performance kits, there are other brands available here also. 50:50 is considered a flammable mix, more water than meth should technically make it an inflammable liquid under normal conditions which I would rather have as my tank sits in the boot. I have a snow performance MAP controlled kit and their 2.5 Gallon tank, for street use that tank lasts more than 6 months, however for race use I am with R31Nismoid, I wouldn't be recommending the smaller tanks for that purpose without some sort of safeguard in place. You only get a few minutes of full throttle full boost driving before its all gone. If your ECU supports switching between ignition and fuel maps you can run two maps, one tuned without the WMI and one tuned with it, then use a fluid level switch to switch the pump off and the maps over when the fluid runs low. The same principal can be used to switch a boost control solenoid off to lower the boost if you don't have the other features. Just because they don't sell you a fancy box to do these things doesn't mean you can't do them with the other kits and $5 worth of parts from jaycar

what exactly are you looking at the WMI setup to do? is it instead of race fuel? instead of E85? to get more power out of pump fuel? it reduces detonation and allows you to run more ignition timing. it does this regardless of what bolt ons you are running

you can put it in there if you want. Paul should be able to have answered that question if you asked him?

to his credit they have been all over the forum, just have to find them.

8:1 i hope you have the replacement spark plugs ready, they wont last long idling like that i know mine didnt at 10-11:1

as its being shipped on a pallet, you are likely to find the cubic weight is more than the physical weight.

i want one. how much does a 2 poster like that set someone back?

i cant believe no one has listed this or similar yet. TIG / MIG / Oxy / ARC welders $$$? varies on model, brother picked up a TIG this afternoon listed as $2700 for super discounted price of $1300 (that completes the set)

The front bar, the paint is fairly average condition it also needs a clean

turbo to cat is 4" dump & 3.5" front pipe, i need to replace the cat and catback section as they are only 3" (when funds permit)

i said i was overestimating parts needed so that i didnt get a shock

il try and grab a picture tonight.

i was thinking of just getting a doughnut or two and then chopping that as required as they are about the same price as a bend with more bend to them, all up inc overestimating required materials its about ~$1000 - 3m tube, 2 doughnuts, 2x custom mufflers (i know an off the shelf 16x11x8 will fit at the back but doesnt hurt to over estimate price), flanges and gaskets.

nah, too much work, just get all the top pipes coated to go with it

it almost seems a shame to cover craved's work

i have a somewhat chopped (to fit a front mount) series 1 R33 front bar.

its a refernce to something else entirely, but we wont go into that.

well its not the terrorists fault you are considered a high risk client for the insurance companys, they charge that much because they dont want you to go with them.

mmm dry sump. Where are you picking up the oil from in the engine with the setup? (3 stage is 1x out 2x in yea?) front and rear of the engine?

i installed a 044 in my tank and can boot it with less than 1/4 and not get any surge, get them to check that the pump is mounted as low as possible in the tank. does it have issues driving around normally with low fuel? also keep in mind some fuel guages are a bit dodgy in the way they read the fuel level, 1/4 on one isnt always the same on another.

the 3037s is internal wastegate, 3037 isnt.