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TiTAN

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Everything posted by TiTAN

  1. check his user profile if you want to find out.
  2. make sure the image is under 2mb and give it time for the file to upload. you also dont mention any kind of ECU upgrade.
  3. swiper the fox might see it but wont be putting input in.
  4. 4" intake pipe, 4" dump pipe, ETM steam pipe manifold with 50mm external wastegate, stock cams, greddy intake manifold, Q45 throttle body, 3" intercooler piping/cooler. engine is also running 9.3:1 compression that might help a little.
  5. was going to say the VN should be up for grabs once we get the VT.
  6. what kind of daily that can tow are you looking for?
  7. N1GTR, could you attach this file to the first post? RB30 DOHC Guide. (Click me)
  8. are you sure its not till 4500? my RB25/30 with 3582R (0.82 rear) is on 20psi a little after 3500rpm.
  9. http://www.wsid.com.au/event.asp?Id=1277 you dont need an andra licence unless you are going to be faster than 11.99 and if you are faster than that you have to have a cage etc also or they kick you out. just go and run the car yourself.
  10. most of the fluctuations are only +/- 0.5psi or less.
  11. the whole engine should be acid cleaned and bores honed before being built anyway, so the rust is a moot point.
  12. i wish the bottom end of my engine was that cheap
  13. going for the merc 7.3L like the zonda has?
  14. i am not saying E85 is a bad fuel but in Canberra you cant get it at the petrol station and you cant get it in Goulburn, there is not enough demand for it to be put in considering the relatively small spread out population when you look at Melbourne with 2 stations covering the whole place. E85 does have negatives too, it uses 30% more for the same power figure (which brings it inline with 98 prices), requires a much larger fuel system to support it, it cant be left for too long as it absorbs water (granted petrol also goes off if left too long), have to keep an eye on your oil as it can contaminate it if the engine isn't running long enough to get the oil up to temp. WMI with a sufficiently sized tank (like my 9.5L tank) can go for months without checking (street driving though 9.5L is still a lot for track driving) even the smaller tanks last a fairly long time unless you have your foot in it everywhere you drive. WMI also cools the intake charge like E85 does and when setup correctly you can even go so far as to run 91ron petrol and still make good power. (in some cases remove the intercooler completely as well)
  15. if you are going for that big of a turbo why not just buy a good quality manifold to start with? ETM, 6BOOST, fullrace
  16. there is a new project for you when you are done with the supra steve, 4wd twin turbo V8 skyline.
  17. it has been done before but the exhaust/intake are on the wrong side and gets messy with the steering and such.
  18. probably less chance that the 1000hp 2j would break though.
  19. if you get the whole motor you dont have to take all the sensors/etc off of your current engine
  20. mines snow performance. its got a MAP sensor in the control box under the bonnet, when it hits XX psi it starts injecting and by XX its on full so it ramps up the pump based on boost so you arent injecting silly amounts all the time.
  21. pics of large tank. i dont think i have any of the smaller tank installed. but i just unbolt the large one and stick the small one on the side piece of MDF.
  22. you can also get rather large WMI tanks (mine is 9.5L) it is mostly water at the moment and was last filled late last year. i also have a smaller 2L tank that i can fit to run the crazy water meth mix with nitromethane
  23. what is with people diging up old threads for no reason but to put LOL or something stupid in them.
  24. the boost is largely irrelevant its the KW that hurts them.
  25. water meth injection, its not expensive and gives similar/same results as using E85.
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