TiTAN

if the oil seals have gone why not just get them rebuilt? probably cheaper than buying brand new turbos.

it depends on suspension setup/tyre choice/how hard and fast the power ramps up. if i put lots of preload into my wastegate its all in a little after ~3500rpm and pushing 300+kw and steps out in 3rd but if i back the preload off and the boost ramps up much slower it holds on in 2nd fine and almost holds 1st with only 235 rubber

you will have a better chance of passing the IM240 test if you have a cat from a fairly new car (couple years old) as they have much stricter emissions standards to meet than a car from the early 90's, the only problem is finding one.

i believe gregs original design for the sump adaptors was a combo effort by him and Fitzpatrick speed works.

well its $ 2,848.10 + shipping for the 5 gear kit from RHDjapan at the moment, plus what ever it costs to have it fitted into the box/replace synchros/bearings (i remember something about the R32 box needing some R33 parts as they were stronger/better?)

or you can just spray that water into the intake with a WMI kit and the engine will love it (plus it keeps the carbon buildup down)

expect to spend a couple thousand if you just want to drop your mods onto the 25/30 (money to cover block modification to suit RB25 head + misc modifications to make the loom/water lines etc fit. (more if you aren't doing the engine in/out work yourself) i assume you have an R33? all the sensors/engine mounts/ballancer/water pump/oil pump etc bolt up to the block. careful using an RB25 sump make sure it doesn't have the fins that stick up below cyls 4-5 as the crank will hit them.

the NA compression vs turbo compression will make a difference to your results justin

did you even take a look at the RB30 thread?

for $800 brand new they arent a genuine GT3582 turbo they are a cheap knock off copy, remember the poor man pays twice. Also 0.63AR exhaust housing is an odd AR for a rotary engine they normally like nice big turbine housings.

that should help the lap times any track in 0 seconds flat. going to be pretty hard to beat your PB though.

this is canberra, everyone knows everyone else.

you mean alex? i dont think he would have one kicking about in his car. do you have a picture of the serial cable you need? 9 pin male to female? male to male? 9 pin to some random connector?

go with what the budget supports. a 30 is never cheap you just keep adding bits as you go

on the plus side, there is an emissions testing place there so all you have to do is wait 4 weeks for a test if they do defect you and make you take one.

if he will pass it brilliant, but the rules state 15% increase in capacity without an engineers report. thats what the RTA have told me. if you are still running stock everything except have an RB30 block they might let it slide seeing as the RB26 + 15% = 2990cc, but as soon as you have an ecu or boost controller of any sort its an auto fail.

a vortech chargers got nothing on a well setup positive displacement charger. boost just off idle ftw.

my car still wont have any rego by then wont be able to make it.

make sure you get a decent sized rattle gun the smaller ones probably wont be able to undo it.

should be all good to bring it down to the SAU Wakefield day then. hint hint

theirs has been going for a long time, i think yours will be finished first

yes they are turbo model specific. like this http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=5RTC-2 the only sign of rubbing at all that i have is from a piece of hose that joins the cam covers and the top of that sits ~1" higher than everything else.

same size as factory. it may be cheaper to make a plate up to block the current BOV hole and weld another onto the intercooler piping closer to the turbo so the run is shorter.

thats too small to get the pressure out quickly.

the sumps dont match ie the 4wd sump wont bolt on.