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TiTAN

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Everything posted by TiTAN

  1. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Kakimoto Regu 06&R Exhaust - Nissan Skyline CPV35
  2. the single turbo counterpart to the power the 2860-9 turbos will give is the 3076R. however if you go that route you have to buy all new manifold, dump/front pipe/intake pipe, intercooler piping etc. cost wise you are better off getting a set of twins.
  3. Neo motors have solid lifters from factory.
  4. best bet is to call one of the mobile stud removal places, they come to you with all the tools and they don't cost all that much.
  5. If you have more than one theres your time problem
  6. if its a full spec T04Z its good for 450kw or ~150kw more than you can run reliably on the stock conrod bolts/pistons. 3076 0.82 or a garrett 3582r 0.82 (mines on full boost (19-20psi) ~3500)
  7. shell, just to make sure can passengers can go in anyones car? also how long do memberships normally take to go through?
  8. or even a 3076 with a .82 rear. friends supra is running that setup and it drives like a stock turbo except that it makes 300kw
  9. Stick it in the stagea and add a little nos to make up for the weight difference
  10. modified dump pipe. new exhaust manifold modified intercooler pipe possibly modify the oil/water lines modified intake pipe You don't need to remove the engine it just takes time (or money if you are getting a work shop to do it) If it was me and its a plain old T3/T4 i would just get a highflow stock turbo/manifold/etc and run that instead, same power but looks stock.
  11. nope the RB is 50kg heavier
  12. i wonder if anyone has taken the adventra running gear and put it in a commodore shell, turbo/supercharged 4wd V8 power
  13. the conversion is done well, but for the $$$ i would have though it would be easier / have more torque if they just turbo/supercharged the LS1.
  14. that would probably move him into the over 2L open class for most events.
  15. or use the stock manifold with a small spacer and weld on a pipe for the external gate.
  16. you cant ask that, knowing how much you have spent ruins the fun.
  17. You could you know put the stock RB25 ones back in there, save yourself a bit of work and end up with something better. that or just get some tomei poncams instead similar money to the solid lifter conversion and you end up with better cams (assuming you aren't going to put some massive cams in later?)
  18. its closer to half a ton difference, to be 1.6T it would have had to go on a diet and not have any fluids
  19. why not just go into pertek with your old lines and ask them to make you a set?
  20. it will run on the stock computer but don't expect it to run brilliantly. the larger capacity will push the ecu map into the safety zones of the standard maps so you lose a lot of ignition timing and it runs rich. you can use either the RB25 sump (remove the 3 fins that stand up as the crank will hit them) or the RB30 sump (no mods required) my engine uses two tensioners but some people don't like that method.
  21. 1. i haven't moved my engine at all. 2. still using the factory sound proofing on the bonnet, i haven't noticed any rattles? 3. get a turbo beanie if you are worried - reduces under bonnet temps and looks nice. 4. i use some of the ACL heat shield like you find on XR6 Turbos
  22. that will make some very deep flutter assuming you are still running without a bov?
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