TiTAN

does he get extra points if it throws a rod mid run?

it also sounded like it was using a really really slow ramp rate too.

There is the ease of tuning with a map based ECU when its single TB instead of multiple, which may have had something to do with it also. I like my Q45 TB, yes it is a little different to drive with than the stock TB as you don't have to be on the throttle that much to get it moving but it hasn't made the car annoying to drive around town. Investing in a clutch that doesn't require super human leg muscles to operate will go further towards making it nice to drive everyday than a smaller TB.

i think he is referring to the map based ecu cutting ignition @ anything over 21psi. so as long as it is tuned with enough tolerance for that much boost it should be o. Does your wastegate have any preload adjustment? mine with no extra preload would quickly ramp to 15psi and then slowly edge its way to ~19psi @ 5500-6000. wind some preload into the gate and boost ramps up to 19 around 3500

The 50/50 split is going the wrong way beneath the flange for it to be a simple chop and weld job from memory. Sell your current (ETM/6BOOST manifold) assuming you have one and they can make you a proper split pulse version to order. Dave, will be interesting to see if the exhaust change and cooler change fix the issue, are you going to try them separately or just change both at once and see?

you wont be cutting corners to run it to 360kw and you wont be running on regular old premium unleaded. also keep in mind your stock internals wont last for ever pushing it that hard.

Yes restrictors in both, however they are only ~$30 each premade. At the end of the day your time to fab them up yourself isnt worth it.

He is running a synchronic wastegate, they are designed a little differently to the regular kind you get from TIAL/HKS/ etc. though i didn't think he had any issues holding boost @ 25psi.

all running screamers?

The RB26 and RB30 gaskets dont have the provisioning for the oil feed up front so the water gallery hole should match the block. With the oil restrictors some people make them a little larger (from memory status suggested larger than 1.5mm) but i wouldn't be going any smaller.

Have you thought about borrowing an 80mm throttle body to try out and see if it changes anything? what size are the intercooler oulets? what size cold side piping?

you should be looking at a 3.5-4" exhaust from the back of the turbo to the tip/s

if he has the Greddy plenum they come factory with an 80mm hole.

there is nothing stopping you making good peak and good midrange power given the sensible sized turbo choice.

Don't do that to an RB25 head. i have 2x 1.5mm restrictors in my engine and when it is idling at around 2kg of pressure on the factory gauge you can hear the lifters getting a little noisy. Block the feed hole into the head and run an RB26 or RB30 head gasket a standard RB26 gasket or a MLS gasket will be fine.

depends mostly on the weather.

as the rb30 guide says. 7:1 with 30ET pistons 8.3:1 with 30E pistons. the DE/T heads have much larger combustion chambers hence the lower CR, buy pistons made to suit the DET conversion (there is quite a few out there)

You could just get a bleed valve, for under $50 they give good enough boost control for a stock turbo and leaves $450+ towards your FMIC. The fancy EBC isn't going to make a large difference to power with the stock turbo, either will get you to the ~200kw limit.

twin scroll manifold with non twin scroll rear housing on the turbo? i am not sure if a 040 will support 300-400kw, you may want to look into using a 044 instead. forget the sard fuel pressure reg waste of money, 800cc injectors will outflow a GT35R @ stock fuel pressure.

not to mention that you have to pull apart half of the intake plenum to get at the rail.

if you install either/both you will have to trailer the car to your tuner as it will either not run or potentially damage the motor as the tune is now massively out.

could it be the difference in intake manifold design from RB20 -> RB25. If the strut brace only just cleared on the 20 it may not fit with a 25.

don't bother with something like that, get a popper aftermarket ECU that can be retuned.

rips will send you a prebuilt engine. most engine shops if you ask will more than likely allow do it.

4.1L if you go by the manual.