TiTAN

if the harmonic balancer has rotated you have bigger issues and need to pull it off and replace the key in the crank that stops it rotating and lines it up

he was reffering to a shop that does exhaust parts for trucks, as they use nice big pipes and would have most of it in stock.

car is running and has an initial tune on it. Arias 9.2:1 comp pistons Stock RB25 cams & springs with slightly cleaned up ports (completely stripped and rebuilt head) VCT enabled Greddy intake with Q45 TB GT3582R 0.82 on an ETM manifold with 4" dump pipe, 50mm external wastegate The engine is so much nicer off boost than the RB25 ever was and once its on boost the thing flys (making ~5psi by 2300 in 4th) 290kw @ the rear wheels 18 psi and bugger all ignition timing, 11:1 AFR up top and not making use of the WMI as something is leaking into the intake and fouling up the plugs/ deploying a smoke screen (to put it lightly) on the over run (PCV leaking oil, valve guide/s leaking oil, brake master cyl faulty and leaking fluid) any or all of the above. so we cant lean on it till thats fixed, should have an easy extra 70 or so kw left in it.

if the fuel pump isnt faulty. no you will not see any gain.

have you connected the car up to a wideband O2 sensor since you changed the turbo?

what if he was colour blind and it only effected yellow?

you only have to take a car to dickson if its modified. if it is bog standard any blue slip shop can do it. basically the only mods you can have if you take it anywhere other than dickson is an exhaust and a pod filter.

also look at taking the bonnet off the car, don't have to worry about hitting it with the engine crane and it gives you more room, but if the gearbox is going with the car you can undo the engine mounts and the gearbox mount (with a jack under the gearbox) tilt the engine back and undo the top two bolts from the bell housing to the engine, do the gearbox mounts back up and then remove the rest of the bolts that makes it much easier to get the engine out without taking the gearbox with it as you can virtually lift it straight up out of the engine bay

as with AL's setup unless you run it on E85/race fuel these turbos are unlikely to see anymore than 320-330kw. NYTSKY has 360kw but is using E85 and a huge fuel system to support it.

it is a burger van near the old bus depot.

my car was started and run for 30 seconds to make sure it started, idled properly and oil pressure came up. then it went off to a dyno to be run in and tuned. (both occured on the same day doing 3 oil and filter changes to make sure there wasnt excessive metal in the oil) i believe it is now running synthetic oil after only about 45 pulls on the dyno + loading the engine up for the run in.

put it in the pipe that goes to the plenum. This is where mine is mounted.

The ARP mains and head studs are pointless for your power goal. and the 26 sump has nothing of benefit to offer unless you are converting the car to 4wd.

why? the wastegate that is on the turbo to begin with is capable of doing the job.

^^ jealous pete? assuming you dont take the key out, the steering will be heavy but will work and the brakes will only work their best for 2-3 presses at best. even putting it in neutral and jumping on the brakes is better than leaving it in drive with a throttle stuck wide open, plus as it was a rental breaking it isnt so much of an issue

i noticed there were lots of new features in the latest update. i like the addition of the soft cut limiter option.

if you are bored there is normaly some activity here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wasteland-f19.html

visit the wasteland whoretown thread. you can be almost as silly as you like over there.

if you lend him a dress and can find him a blond wig you can test that theory.

i have a heavy duty organic clutch (from justjap orriginaly) and pressure plate sitting in my cupboard that was removed from my car when i upgraded lots of life left in it. give me a price if you want it.

or the comments from summernats, has it got a V8 in it?

it should be somewhere around 350+kw at the rears which is the bit that concerns me (RB30 + GT3582 0.82) They have a tread wear rating around 150 unlike the RE55's which are between 50-100 from memory

stock ecu? have you cleaned your idle air bypass? mine used to do that once it was up to operating temperature stopped after i cleaned it out.

my car will be going on the rollers on Tuesday and it is running 595RS semis. hopefully there wont be any issues with it as i don't have any spare non grippy rubber for them to use.

you should also be cleaning the old oil out of the crank when you do it