TiTAN

i would go along if i had my car.

you will probably find http://proengines.com.au/ has the same package for less dollars and greg is local.

mine wouldnt bleed either. we ended up using a 60ml syringe with some line and forcing the fluid from the slave bleed nipple to the middle bleed nipple and then to the master cyl bleed nipple.

have you checked the RB26 upgrade thread?

spoolup is working on 3.3L and 3.4L stroker kits for the RB30's. initial figures aren't cheap but neither are the RB26 stroker kits.

why not just use an electric fence device instead packs a hell of a punch if you get one for big animals.

i have a single 16" thermo hanging off the back of a 50mm radiator no heat issues so far and the fan only ever comes on if you are sitting ilde for a while. (ecu temp controled)

even without the extras a 350-380kw 26/30 is more than enough power to throw you around a track quick

hioctane have demonstrated that a 26/30 with 2860-5's makes for a very quick combo.

if you want an answer contact CRD directly. you either want one or you want to fork out the extra for the Tomei people aren't going to spoon feed you the information if you just keep carrying on like that.

do you realise this thread is from 2007?

http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=3 that is the one. if you just want to try it out to see how much you use it is your cheapest option.

you can only push a standard radiator so far, considering that a replacement radiator is not that expensive its worth looking into.

Have you upgraded the radiator?

yes the line on a 33gtst does come out the bottom.

you can also buy the snow performance premix for ~$36 per gallon from rocket.

the RB30 conversion while not neccecary will make for a nicer drive off boost, very few people do the conversion and regret it.

and if they did post here shell would just have to delete / modify the post.

while he already has a 25 head for 600+hp (which is what he seems to want) a 26 head is a far better starting point than a 25 head as you can fit much higher lift cams due to the solid lifters as opposed to spending lots of money to convert the 25 head to solid lifters.

Proengines do an RB30 forged short block (bottom end only) for $8000 that includes the adaptor to suit the 4wd sump (your mechanic will then need to transfer the head/sensors/etc from your blown up engine onto that bottom end and install it in the car) . As far as nice to drive on the street engines go the RB30 conversion is hard to beat.

this question is asked every 2nd week. This link will help you in the future. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html&f=8 also i have done the 5 seconds of work to find the answers for you see below. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...ower+rb25+stock http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ower+rb25+stock http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ower+rb25+stock http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ower+rb25+stock http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/hu...ower+rb25+stock

call and ask them the price for that engine. there is no way you are going to get a forged bottom end, full turbo setup and dry sump for $6k NZ the parts alone are worth double that and then some. for that kind of money expect a bare stock internal RB30DET long engine.

for big power the RB26 head is better. but you also need a new wiring loom and possibly ecu depending on what you go with. i hope you have set aside 20k+ for the build.

i would cut your losses and buy something decent.

you are running near the limits of the turbo as it is. the dyno you are using may just read lower than the one AL is using.