TiTAN

ignore that bit i want the wanky idle the antilag would have an arming threshold of 8000rpm and 100% throttle. but you have to have it on for the ilde so running 0 degrees ignition retard with an arming rpm that i wont reach will mean it never triggers and my exhaust wheel remains out of my cat.

his o2 sensor is more in the front half than the rear end doof Anthony would you mind PM'ing me with a basic run down of setting up antilag and cyclic idle. Did the fuel map need to be changed at all?

i suppose it also gives you the ability to throw some extra fuel into it quickly and easily during hot weather.

Much nicer to use setup than when you had the GT47 on there then?

The series two front bars look better but require modification to fit onto a series one.

Anthony, get him to pull the one out of your car, then he can put it back when your done?

how is yours going now Steve-O? what kind of response are the GT-RS's giving with the 30?

If you are going to only be doing minimal mods something like an Xforce exhaust will be fine and isn't overly expensive (mine is happily pushing 200kw @ the rears on the stock turbo with one) as for the bell mouth vs split dump, again 200kw they are both going to give a good result and you wont notice much difference between the two.

If you have an ECU pinout for the stock ecu check to see if the boost control solenoid is triggered on pin 25.

keep in mind that you can only register 12 cars per year under your name.

do you still have the RX7? or is that gone?

that was me. i didn't see the wave.

take a look at the plazmaman plennums. see here http://plazmaman.com/shop/index.php?action...&itemId=193

thats not backwards, stuff having it in the windscreen it triples the price of the things.

Wire up one of the digital inputs to the clutch switch and set it up as a "GP Input". Check that the settings are correct for the way you have wired the switch using the "Digital Inputs" tab at the bottom of the software. (this is the bit where mine was playing up the rising/falling setting was set incorrectly so it was activating as the clutch pedal was released rather than depressed which makes for an interesting drive) Turn flat shifting on i have found that around 0.75 seconds for the cut period works well for me. Then just setup what RPM you want it active above with what % of throttle you want it to activate over. i found that my car with a fully functional stock BOV holds ~8psi (running 12psi) during the gear changes and the boost is pretty much instantaneous when the ignition cut finishes.

i got my flat shift working properly this afternoon (i accidentally changed one of the settings that stuffed it up). if anyone wants to see what its like ask at the Friday night meets.

i figured out why flat shift wasn't working for me earlier this evening, i must say its a good bit of fun now that it does work, though traction between gears is a bit of an issue.

AN volt 1-6 any of which can be used as an input for the widebands 0-5v output.

the main causes are too much ignition timing, very hot weather, and a shit batch of fuel.

Taken from the help file with the vipec software. The number and spacing of the cells in the Table is completely user adjustable. Rows/columns may be inserted or removed where desired by right clicking in the desired place on the labels of the RPM Axis or Load Axis (ie right click on the RPM values to insert a new RPM column). This flexibility allows fine spacing in areas where high resolution/accuracy is required and coarse spacing in less critical areas. The maximum number of RPM columns is 22, while the maximum number of Load rows is 20. When adding a new row or column, the new row/columns cell values will be interpolated between the values in the rows/columns which it was inserted between.

i could have done the switches while you were down here if you wanted.

i have the tacho sweep turned on with my 4.3.2 firmware

from memory Paul got an adapter loom with his V88 to make it plugin.

Anthony, you should think about setting up a toggle switch so you can switch betwen fuel and ignition maps to suit. so its just a flick of the switch and you are on either E85 or 98. i volunteer Paul to wire it up to DI5 or DI6 for you

shell works nights afaik.