r32woohoo

R32 Rb20 GCG RB25 highflow @ 14psi Bosch 044 in-tank GTR 444cc Injectors Std ecu remap FMIC 3" Split dump+highflow cat+Fujitsubo catback Std airbox Turbotech boost tee 182rwkw 474ft/lb torque Still room for alot more boost

no way

check your cooler piping for leaks! i must sound like an idiot since ive said it in numerous threads but as secur1ty said, denser air, tiny bit more boost, might be a leak somewhere thats what it was in my case

im running the X2 4400+ on an asus a8n-sli deluxe with 2gb ram and a geforce 7800gtx my mobo just died though and they dont make them anymore ive gotta get one off ebay from america when i first put mine all together it was really really unstable. always crashing and stuff. turned out to be the motherboard drivers were clashing. so i upgraded all that. if its got onboard sound, if its anything like mine, dont use it coz thats what was making it unstable

Sinclair motor sports in Padstow 97714144 I supplied parts and only paid labour which was about $350 That included timing belt, idler+tensioner bearings, water pump, all oils+filters, radiator flush, spark plugs and a few other fiddly bits

I just got these gauges, the wiring in my 32 was pretty simple. Green wire goes to the sender. If you want the gauges to light up white all the time (with or without the headlights on), wire the red and the white to an ignition wire. Red and orange to ign if you want amber all the time. If you want it white during the day and amber at night, wire the red and white to ign and the orange to your headlight switch. Vice versa if you want amber during the day and white at night (swap white and orange around). just put a test lamp to a wire with ign off, then turn ign on and see if it lights up, then theres your wire. Theres one that should go to the headunit, usually red as well. If you have a turbo timer, the power wire to that would do nicely. Or if you're really desperate, find the power windows power wire. I grounded mine to the cigarette lighter The warnings are preset. Let me know how you go with your oil pressure one, i seem to be having problems with mine. When the engine is revving, the gauge seems to work, but once it's idling, it drops to 0. Ive got another sender to put in but i havent gotten around to that just yet. I had to cut a few bits of my dash out and move the aircon controls to get the DIN plate to fit. Edit: Just re-read that you don't have an oil pressure one....

What are you looking for? Raw power? Response? Top end power etc? Why was the RB20 a waste of time? In the end, they're both still 2L engines, both can make the same amount of power, they just deliver it differently. A power figure isn't everything, just make sure it's tuned right

I'll take it How long was it used for before you had it? Can you guarantee that it works?

all the senders are earthed directly to the shell ill attack the rest of the wiring with a multimeter and see what i can find. my standard gauge does the same thing but only on and off, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. the warning light has never come on. the sender is attatched to a sandwich plate along with the temp sender checked the oil yesterday and its fine, ill check it again in the morning to make sure it hasnt moved. couldnt see any oil leaks yesterday, ill check in the morning aswell i think the gauges are fine, must have done something wrong somewhere

gee ill remember that for next time. meanwhile, does anyone KNOW how to fix this?

Bumpy

well i purchased the gauge to function, not to look good and fill up space i guess i wouldnt mind so much if it didnt beep at me but id still rather it work properly

Ive got a GCG hiflow on my RB20. although it's not tuned yet so im only running 10psi. but even then it goes alot better then the standard turbo ever did on 12psi and pulls all the way to redline. Less response of course but not as laggy as you would expect.

Hey all, i just installed a set of the justjap autogauge gauges, oil pressure, temperature and water temperature all with the warning light/beep. Wired everything up, started her up and yay, they all worked. But then one minute later the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 and started beeping at me. When i give it some revs the pressure goes up and seems to half work. but once i get off the gas and let it idle, it just drops straight back to zero. I've unplugged it since i cant stand the beep. Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem with any type of electronic pressure gauge and found a way to correct it? PS: im considering the fact that it may be a faulty sender unit, but I cant get in contact with justjap until monday.

So who's going to this tonight?

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/...ers_wiring.html that has all the possible wiring diagrams for any combination of subwoofer

i go there all the time, well kinda. theres a driving range around the corner from my house in homebush west too. im keen if theres a good turnout

check your cooler piping for leaks, even tiny ones. just tighten all the clamps. u might have a leak somewhere

^^ not a problem good luck with it, its an awesome feeling after you get it sorted out

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3134053 might be worthwhile to have a look at. As i said in that thread as well, and what ive read in other threads, you probably have an air leak somewhere. Too much fuel + not enough air to ignite it properly My leak was in the intercooler piping, one of the silicone joins were slightly loose and i didnt even realise.

I've just had that problem! Mine was coz one of my cooler joins were ever so slightly loose n was leaking. Not enough to make it pop off but i could definately feel it when boosting. Originally i thought it was the coils and plugs but i regapped the plugs and cleaned the coils n still no good. So i thought id clean out the AFM, n in the process of taking the piping off to get to it, i found my leaky joint

^^ what he said or go to dick smith and buy a new lighter assembly n wire it up. Thats what i did

ermm...a tune is a remap. They remap your stock ecu to tune it, unless you have some other form of engine management, then they'll "tune" that

the tatatatata sound is the starter motor trying to crank but the battery hasnt got enough juice for it to turn over

flat battery, had it happen to me a couple of weeks ago. got a new batt n off i went