r32woohoo

Just got a suspension check done on my 32 today and the results weren't good The valves in my front shocks are nearly dead coz the bump stops died and they've been bottoming out for who knows how long. The front shocks were replaced under a year ago too The rear shocks are nearly at the end of their life too Steering rack needs overhauling Front upper control arm bushes are dead Ive read through a few of the suspension threads but i'm by far an expert on it so i'm looking for some opinions on what other people are running and what you would recommend. I'm considering getting a set of tein super streets or going with SK's bilsten shocks and springs. I like the Teins for their ease of damper and height adjustment but i suspect the bilstens are probably better gear They're about the same price so i want to know which ones perform better? The car is pretty much street driven but i'll get out on to the track sooner or later. As for the upper c/arms i don't know whether i should get just the replacement bushes, or new camber adjustable arms. I'm also wondering whether i should get whiteline or noltec? Again similar prices but do they perform the same? If there's other gear you're using that you could recommend then

still has the ceramic turbine wheel too

i get this problem too. it does hinder visibility alot when all you can see is your own dash in the windscreen. but given the angle of the windscreen i dont think theres much that can be done about it unless someone has some super awesome ideas

Measure it

exhaust and fmic is a definate for the first things. unless you upgrade the turbo you wont need the pump, injectors, afm yet. splitfires and a clutch wont affect the power but they're good to have coz as the power goes up, they will probs need replacing anyway just make sure its a good tune with whatever you get

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if you're still running the std rb20 turbo why is it only running 7psi when the actuator is set for 10psi?

Theres no such thing as boost cut. the ecu has no control over boost whatsoever. If its an air leak it jerks because the air that was supposed to go into the cylinder for combustion has leaked out and the fuel cant ignite. ie: the injectors are squirting but theres no air to burn it

So how did they determine that something definately went through the turbo? Can they conclusively document and prove that that was the cause of the turbo failure? I wouldn't be letting ~$900 get away from me without concrete proof of the reason given Oh and taken from security's thread, if you hadn't sent it back to their workshop and sent it somewhere else then it would have voided the warranty anyway....according to them

1 - it seems that most 32's have the same cold start issue. mine included, you learn to live with it after a while. cleaning the aac valve and iac valve helps 2 - like others have said it's probably the afm dying. if you have an atmo bov that could be causing the problem too. get a std bov and see if that fixes it 3 - could be your afm again, could be your coilpacks. is it misfiring (exhaust making popcorn noises)? whats your spark plug gap? it could be an air leak. Check your intercooler and turbo piping for any leaks, make sure the hose clamps are tight and the pipes/hoses firmly seated. My car used to jerk + misfire etc on boost but drove around fine off boost, turned out to be the tiniest air leak from a slightly loose hose clamp that grew on boost but sealed off boost. the revving over 1000rpm then stalling could be because the motor is opening the aac valve and raising the revs trying to compensate for air being lost somewhere but cant get enough so it stalls. When its jerking is there alot of black smoke coming out of the exhaust? the engine manual says idle should be set at 650rpm, but mines at around 800-900rpm. apart from using more petrol at idle i dont see there being any problem with that

fuel pressure at idle should be 35-40psi i think. it wouldn't do you any good playing with the fuel pressure with the std ecu anyway im gonna take a stab at the fuel pump being the culprit. since it only happens after a couple of hours the pumps probably getting hotter and not working properly. Theres been a few threads about the 040's going bad when it gets hot. T04gtr had a thread about it and im pretty sure cubes and guilt-toy had one along the same lines too.

when you cut open the injector loom theres a whole load of wires. Trace the wires that come from the front three injectors and you will find that 3 wires all go to a single wire. same goes for the back three. Those are the ones you need. the resistor pack should have one wire thats a different colour to the rest. thats the one you join the single wires from the loom to. then connect the remaining 6 wires from the resistor to each injector

my one never came with the plug, just bare wires. theres 7 wires coming out of the resistor pack, 1 for power to the resistor and 6 for each of the injectors you can see in the photos in roy's diy that there are 2 common power wires that split into 3 to the injectors. one for the front 3 and rear 3. the 2 common wires go to the single wire in the resistor pack and the other 6 to each injector. Hope it makes sense coz i suck at explaining things

lol where'd you get that idea from? The wastegates are physically the same size. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sl...20&start=20 look at the pictures

Whats a bermex?

after accumulating a whole years worth of bendix ultimate dust on my white wheels I got it all off yesterday with armorall wheel cleaner Spray it on and wipe (scrub in my case) it off and rinse

The 2530 is supposed to be the best turbo for response and power on the rb20, or so ive read Theres going to be lag with any bigger turbo since its still an rb20 On the other hand, i'm running a GCG rb25 highflow on my rb20 and the response is pretty good It wasn't that big of a difference in lag from the std turbo but it was pretty laggy for the first few days before i got used to it. I get 12psi from around 3500rpm and 16psi at about 4200rpm compared to the std turbo 12psi at 2800rpm I made 180rwkw on 14psi, couldn't go further coz my boost controller wouldn't hold any more boost steadily and the clutch couldn't hold any more power.

Drop into my pub afterwards We're open till 4

I go past that street every day lol. Got over it long before i had the skyline

Nice write up dude. Now come over and do all that stuff on my car

Not working that night so ill tag along Who's meeting at olympic park before Chatswood?

LPG on a turbo car would be strange. I wonder how you would tune it

The numbers dont mean anything without a dyno sheet to prove it

airco automotive are VDO dealers. they'd be your best bet for some info