Daewoo

MR30 Hatch bits and pieces! Scraping out my MR30 that I was putting together for dirt racing. It will be going on a flatbed at the end of the week, and anything I don't want will be going with it. If someone wants to take the whole thing as an almost rolling shell - free to a good home. (I'll be keeping the wheels and lower control arms for future projects, but if you want the shell I will leave them in it until it's on a trailer). Everything else is $20 per person (just to stop people annoying me for nothing). Lowered springs and aftermarket suspension, (I think KYB). Aftermarket Sway Bar(s). (Front is def aftermarket, but I think the rear is standard off a sedan maybe). All panels pretty good. No Gearbox or clutch or clutch hydraulics. No Diff or Driveshafts. No Head. Block would need a rebuild. I threw away the interior (seats, carpet, rear door trims) ages ago. I'm stripping it out over this weekend, if you get me early enough that I can pull whatever you want off, I'll do that. I'm out every night for the week, so after Monday it's help yourself or it goes to the scrapper. PM only until you're committed to taking something. Cheers, Daewoo

It is worth what you can get for it... sometimes on eBay they will sell for $1500-$2000... I bought a crashed Sedan Manual and a good Auto Hatch with a blown headgasket for $500, but they were 2hrs drive from Sydney... I would suggest that if you want to help your old man get a little bit more cash, you need to fix all the mechanicals... I'd take if off your hands for low hundreds if it was in Sydney and turn it into another race car... Cheers, Darryl

Thanks Andrew, There are some VL ones on eBay... but out of my price range... I have a mechanic with an ultrasonic cleaner, so maybe I will take them out and to him to clean... or try and get some VL/R31 ones and clean them...

Some photos of the gearbox crossmember I had made. Unfortunately, the guy who made it for me didn't return the drawings, so I can't post specifics... One side is 50mm higher than the other, I have used 40mm square, so I probably should add another 10mm on that side, but don't think it will be a problem... Next time I would make the piece that the gearbox mount bolts to out of 40x20, and the plates at either end bigger so that I could use one of the standard bolts. Doesn't matter in this khanacross car. Cheers, Daewoo

Finaly got some time to work on the new Khanacross Car. I have punted a few too many trees and embankments with the first version, so need to get the second one up and running. The second one is a pretty good bodyshell, but the engine had a blown headgasket. I took the opportunity to put an E88 Head I had from another car, and port match the inlet manifold, and remove all the polution gear... I now have two injectors that aren't firing... cylinders 3 and 4... I have spark, and will borrow a set of noid lights to check I have signal from the ECU... Assuming that the injectors are stuffed, I think it would be a good idea to change/upgrade the injectors... I remember reading about modifying R31 Injectors to have the tail (although I am thinking of getting rid of the standard fuel rail, and just using EFI hose with lots of clamps and T pieces anyway, just for ease of getting the injectors in and out)... but I also remember something about using pulsar or FJ20 injectors or something... If I can use SR20DE Injectors, I would have 12 of them lying around here... What's the story??? Cheers, Darryl

Yeah - I should have said that the chances of him modifying the mounts is pretty slim... Definately wouldn't be letting this stop me if the rest of the car is worth it...

depends on how much he modified the body to fit the sparcos... If he fitted the sparcos to the standard runners, as long as you get seats with runners it should be no problem... if he modified the seat mounts (part of the car) it is going to be very difficult... If it is just the runners, it is 4 bolts per seat (one in each corner) plus the seatbelt bolts... Ask the guy selling... Cheers, Daewoo

To be honest, and trying my hardest not to be a pr!ck here... You are bullsh!ting yourself and everyone here... You aren't going to learn if you keep doing that... No one in the history of cars, or driving, or damp roads, spun a car on that bend in 5th gear with moderate acceleration... blaming it on oil, wet weather, tyres, turbo boost, or any other outside factor is missing the point entirely... you f^cked up, could have killed yourself or someone else, and unless you take responsibility, you might end up doing exactly that... The easy answer is, you were either going too fast for the conditions, or accelerating too hard, or both... All the defensive driving courses in the world (teaching you about how to stay out of other peoples accidents) are going to teach you not to screw up yourself... advanced driving courses are great, if you want to go onto a racetrack... but streets are not race tracks... Take responsibility, be true to yourself, understand what you did wrong, don't even go close to doing it again.. don't blame anything other than yourself... I hope you take my comments with the intent they are made, which is to hopefully keep you alive... Daewoo

Zed front struts are different to everything... they are shorter (have the spring seat welded further down the strut tube) and use a smaller spring, and different strut top, and different strut insert... 240K/200B struts are the same (and I think the same as C210)... and brakes about the same or smaller than C210 (I think smaller)... R30/R31 are about the same size brakes, but different bolt pattern... and as above R31 struts use very big springs... you can use R30 struts and custom springs, to lower them back to standard height but the strut insert is not in the middle of it's travel so firmer on the bump, and softer on the rebound... Early 180B struts will let you bolt a commodore caliper straight up, used with machined Audi front rotors used to be the mod to do... now everyone goes to S13 brakes for early Datos... Cheers, Daewoo

Hi James, Still got this? Wonder how I would go carrying it onto a flight back to Sydney... Darryl

Hi Dennis, Long time since I've been on here... Buggsy was my co-driver, and I still keep my MR30 Khanacross Hack and N15 Rally car at his place. The car didn't sell on eBay (didn't reach the reserve) which is a shame... He bought the car for his son to use in Khanacross and as a road car after driving mine in a Khanacross... didn't like the idea of his son punching a tree in his 240Z... The car is on club plates, which means it only needs to pass a pink slip inspection from unregistered when he bought it... guessing he never updated the engine number... I guess it would probably be just over the 15% increase (depending on what the actual capacity of a 2.4 and 2.8 are)... To get club plates, the owner must be a member of a CAMS car club, and the car must be more than 30 years old, and either reasonably standard/mods of the day, or modified in line with the Historic Racing category... It means you can drive it to and from events in your car club calendar, and to your mechanics and such... no substitute for real rego if you want to use the car, but much cheaper... (I think less than $100)... I would buy this car from him (made an offer) but he wants more than it is worth to me as a khanacross car... good if you wanted to just take it back to a nice road car, which doesn't interest me... Cheers, Daewoo

Wrong car - forget I was here...

When you do, can I have one ... all progress on mine stopped about 3 months ago when I hit this hurdle, and lost interest... as the teachers all said "Daewoo is easily distracted"... Two things... the short boxes are in short supply, only ever used in MR30s and Stanzas... and, the plate that holds the input shaft bearing (or whatever it's real name is) is Aluminum, so prone to shitting themself... before I bought it, I would be taking that plate off and seeing if it is faxed, if it is, the plate is the same as a 'K' box, but it usually faxes the whole front housing (which you can also just swap for a 'K' one)... As it is just a Daily, probably not a big deal... Cheers, Daewoo

^^^ Carlos Casmiri ^^^ Rally dude and hoarder of Zed Parts. You need the tailshaft and speedo cable from the manual, as well as the clutch pedal and the bolt/rod thing that goes through the manual pedal box... I reckon that, the Auto and Long Manual box would be the same length (didn't measure) so you might be able to use the Auto Tailshaft with a Long Box... but the gearstick will be a few cm further back in the hole... Biggest problem is going to be the crossmember... the Auto Tunnel is about 10cm wider than the Manual Tunnel, so you are trying to bolt the gearbox crossmember into thin air... Auto one crosses the transmission in a completely different spot, and bolts through the floorpan at different levels, so you will have a slight complex fabrication job... Cheers, Daewoo

I have been realy lazy, and let this job slide a lot... I will just fabricate a crossmember... nothing new... anyone who has fitted a 240K box to a 1600 has done it, although the shape is a bit different this time around... I could procrastanate for Australia... why put something off until tomorrow, when you can put it off till the weekend after that... Cheers, Daewoo