Daewoo

Some photos from today; Adam, my neighbour coming to his first event. Buggsy's Sedan My Sedatch in action. Daewoo

Any gasket will do - your local parts store will most probably be 20% of the price from Nissan... I prefer rubber over cork.... Daewoo

Most newer - i.e. newer than a 240K, L Engines have a hollow cam - oil from the engine, pumped up by the oil pump is is fed into the camshaft through holes in the cam journals (the bits that old the camshaft in place). Oil is pumed into the cam, and squirts out holes to keep the whole valvetrain lubricated... the lumpy bits of the cam - the lobes - rub against the rocker arms that push the valves in and out to let fuel into the engine, and exhaust gasses out... On Datsun engines, one end of the rocker arm sits on top of the valve, and the other end sits on and adjustable post... on other engine, the post isn't adjustable, but is forced up by oil pressure, these are called Hydraulic Lifters - dajusting the tappets is done by adjusting the post so there is a very small gap between the back of the lobe of the camshaft and the rocker arm, as per the instructions from MAG86... Here is what I would do - park the car in front of your neighbours house, take the rocker cover off, and start the engine... oil will squirt out of all of the little holes in the camshaft... go all over the engine, and all over the road outside your neighbours... what you are looking for is to make sure oil is coming out of ever hole... it should shoot about 20cm... If the hole into the camshaft is blocked, no oil will come out of a bunch of holes... if no oil comes out of only one or two holes in different spots on the cam, just those two galleries are blocked... clear them with a bit of wire... if the oil is blocked, the cam is rubbing on the roker without any lube, it will be a bit noisey, and eventually wear through the hardening on the cam and the rocker... and without lube, it is of course noisey... low oil means low oil pressure, means the same problems... check the oil and keep it within range... if you put 2L in, that means the engine only had half the oil it is supposed to... that means the oil gets twice as hot, and is more runny, so makes things more noisey... Once you have oil coming out of every hole, do the tappet gaps... If the tappet gaps are too big, the rocker is further way from the valve, when the camshoft pushes it down, instead of a 1mm 'runup' it has 2 or 3mm, so instead of a tap, it is a wack... hence the noise... After adjusting the tappets. If you listen carefully, maybe by holding a screwdriver against the rocker cover when the engine is running, and against your ear you should be able to hear where the noise is coming from... I recommend holding the pointy and of the screwdriver against the engine, rather than your ear, but, up to you... if the noise is coming from the very front of the engine, it is probably your timing chain or cam wheel... if in the middle or other end, it is probably a noisey rocker that is a bit worn out, or the lobe of the camshaft is worn... don't worry about the black on the floor, carbon is sticking to the wall of your exhaust, when the engine is running, some water is washing the carbon off the exhaust, and pushed through the exhaust onto the floor... fill your oil, and see how much you use per 300km... if you are using more than about 1L per 1500km, you have a real problem that need to be fixed, probably new rings which is a big deal... less than that, just know your engine is getting a bit tired and will need a rebuild one day... if the car blows puffs of white smoke when you take off from the lights, or when you first start it, it is probably only the valve seals that need to be replaced... still a bigish job, but not as much as the whole engine rebuild... Let us know how you go... Daewoo

- and how much of a bitch it is to remove the seats after every rally so you can vacuum all of the dust out of the back seat area...

I guess your problem is that you build up a four door, and then will always be wishing you started with a 2 door for the looks, which is valid enough... make sure you read up on the rules for whatever sort of rallying you would like to do, because unlike drifting the rules are quite specific, and limiting to what mods you can and must do... I just buy them from the Motorsport Tyre suppliers, Dunlop - Gary's Motorsport Tyres... they sell limited numbers of second hand tyres... but you can also buy them directly from a number of teams... Pretty much everyone uses 15's... Cheers, Daewoo

You mean like the ones that were on the back of the sedan I sent to the scrappers a few months ago :) I didn't realise that the Sedatch ones were welded until I got them apart... At the moment I will persist with the standard brakes, it was really only to try and get the hydraulic handbrake to work better... Anyone ever rebuilt the standard rear calipers??? I mean all the way to getting the handbrake mechanism out and back in again... I am never doing that again, what a pain in the @rse... you need six hands and exray vision... and after all that, it seems the problem with the (standard) handbrake sticking is probably a shitty cable anyway... :verymad: :verymad Thanks for all the replies...

You can't get cooler than your thermostat tells it to be... if you start having overheating problems, then spend your money on more cooling, until then, give the money to me... Cheers, Daewoo

or the 90.23425536623147% Australian Supertaxi Series (by Population)

D, Just checked, I still have the caliper brakets that bolt to the rear axle of an N15 Pulsar. I still had the brakets, but unfortunately have thrown away the full set of Pulsar SSS Brakes... that is what you did before eBay when you couldn't sell your crap to other idiots... The bolt spacing for the N15 rear calipers is the same as the MR30 rears. Don't know what the rotor offets are, but might be worth some investigation... once you know the standard SSS Pulsar ones fit, then you can look at what Pulsar guys do as rear conversions... Just thinking... Cheers, Darryl

I sold a car through pickles once... Pickles had people in the audience put in dummy bids for me... 10 years ago... I buy my cars at the ex-government auctions, and they have good and bad days, but unless I knew a car was a repo I wouldn't buy it at auction... too many cars that have been bought as damaged, dodgy repairs, and then sold at auction so the repairer doesn't need their own dealers licence, and so they don't have to look someone in the eye as they sell them a lemon... I also stear clear of Pickles as the prices are higher than other auctions... Daewoo

Thanks D, So we are both right... Coilovers don't have to be height adjustable, it is just that now the name is usually reserved for adjustable suspension... I thought I was going mad... So if a macpherson strut suspension is also adjustable, is it now referred to as a coilover or as a strut??? In my experience, adjustable suspension is a bit of a waste of money... even when I was swapping between circuit racing one weekend (wanting the car low) and rallying the next (wanting the car high) I rarely adjusted it... every time you adjust the car, you need to get the wheel alignment done again (even though I was getting free alignments it was a hassle) and also, the car is usually out of the optimum height for the shock absorber... The idea of getting road suspension and then 'dropping the car to the deck' for a track day will usually have your handling and lap times going backwards... Cheers, Daewoo

I will see if I get to that stage... At the moment I have a Cresida AFM to fit up, which is about 25% bigger than standard, but I would need to modify the standard air box to make it fit, and then the pipe to the Throttle Body would fit either. (Outside diameter of the Cresida AFM is 80mm standard is about 73mm. So ia have asked the guy that sold me the AFM to put the whole airbox and inlet pipe aside for me. Next step would be to upsize the Throttle Body and Injectors... I keep coming back to the difference between the Std TB size and what we always used inthe webbers. Std TB = 42mm diameter I think, so 42/2 *42/2 * 3.14 = 1384 mm2 Webbers = 6 x 36mm chokes = 36/2*36/2*3.14*6 = 6104 mm2 = more than 4 times the air flow... Now I am not going to claim that the lack of breathing is the only reason the 240Z screems, and the MR30 doesn't, the extra 600kg might also have something to do with it, but I reckon there has to be something to make real gains... Don't want to waste too much time trying to wring power out of the standard engine/EFI when it is only a matter of time before I get you over to help me drop in an RB30 - and then the RB25head and TURBO ... Cheers, Darryl

made me giggle a bit... Tell me tho D, why is the rear not a coil-over... To my mind, a coil-over is just a shock abosorber with the spring seat on it... appreciate if you could explain that to me. MY308U - When you say adjustable, do you mean the compression and rebound are adjustable in the shock abosorber, or that the springs can be wound up and down to adjust ride height??? Cheers, Daewoo

Hi Cazz, love it... I am not in Dennis's fossil class yet, but I did see these cars race... I was officialling in the pits at Bathurst in the late 80s... and loved the Bluebirds, early skylines and GTRs, mainly because I didn't like the general Holden and Fraud fans... in fact, I was a fan of the talking microphone, Tony Longhurst, 'cause I loved the way he used to harass the V8s in his BMWs... Him and Colin Bond, the nicest guy and best racer Australia ever produced... great to see these cars living on, would love to know more about the differences in rollcages due to the radial tyres... anywhere that this sort of thing is described, or is it all through 'talking cars with old men'??? Cheers, Darryl

N15 Pulsar are bolt on... as are R31 skyline... I unbolted the drums off the back of my N15, and bolted on R31 Skyline rears and they lined up perfectly... pretty sure the rear disks are a bolt on an the N15 Series II and SSS, but can't say 100%... Cheers, Darryl

Are DR30 brakes bigger??? Bigger rotors or bigger pad area? Interested Dennis, I might get the details from you later... ATM I am trying to get the rears working better. I've got a hydraulic handbrake... got a cheapie of eBay and changed the cyclinder to a better sized one I had in the shed... but the pad area at the rear just isn't big enough to overcome the locked diff and auto transmission... figure I just need a calliper with more pad area... and increase in rotor size would be a bonus... looks like I'll have to hit the wreckers with my trusty verniers... Is it normal for the rear calliper mount to be welded to the swing arm??? Cheers, Darryl

Remembering that all my mods need to cost me almost nothing to stay within the spirit of the racing. Is there such a thing as easy brake conversions? I was hoping that I could just swap over R31 Skyline stuff, but it doesn't appear that way. I thought that the rear caliper mounts were bolted on, but they appear welded to me... mostly I wanted bigger rear brakes, as overheating isn't the issue for the short tests I do (1 -2 minutes each test)... I just need bigger rears to get the back out coming into the corners... Also, rear caliper rebuild kits seem to be $75 each as cheap as I can get them. Is there a cheaper kit anyone knows of? Cheers, Daewoo

Now if somone would just offer me half of what I spent getting it to 99% complete like it is, I could get rid of it, and buy 30 MR30s...

Like my other car???

Seems legit... If reserve is $500, which I think it was if it is the car I am think of, then the seller could have got a mate to bid up to $1 less than the reserve to push the price up, but probably it would have been one buy the buyer at $500 exactly... for it to have a reserve of $580 is unlikely, so it was probably 2 genuine buyers... Cheers, Darryl

I know I am necro-ing an old post, but I saw the plane in action on Jan 2nd or whatever day it is that everyone heads from Sydney to Can'tberra for Summernats... flying low above the Hume near Cambotown... The used to have the lines on the road, but in the news reports when they announced they were re-starting the P!gs in Space force they mentioned new technology, so I assumed they were now using laser or radar... It is actually a good deterent to speeding, because you never know if you are safe... lots of drivers just slow down for the permanent cameras and then speed up (like I do ) or rely on their 'lightning quick reactions' to see and slow down for a car with a hair dryer... at least P!gs in Space actually slow down drivers all the time... My old Scout Leader used to fly the original plane (he is a cop and a pilot), and actually not a bad bloke... he was Air Wing, not Highway Patrol, so that might explaing why he wasn't a tnuc... and he never tried to penetrate my arse or anyone I know either (just getting in before some other smart arse does )... Daewoo

Hopefully mine. I want to RB25/30DET one of them one of these days... I'll PM you the details, it is our club only event, and the site is a bit confidential, less 'hoons' get out there and f^ck it up... if you have a car that you want to play in, it is only $40 to join the club (9 months) and $55 for a 12 Month CAMS Licence available on the day. Once you have paid that, each entry fee is either $25 or $35 I think... Yeah... Auto ... it is still good fun tho... but hopefully I will get around to the conversion as soon as I can find a 240K box for free or near to... More Pics... RACING What Understeer??? BACK IT IN Out for a nice Sunday Drive Cheers, Daewoo

Next race is on April 11, I will try to get some photos or video... As for results, there are a few other guys who have the same idea as me, have lots of fun without spending any real money... they have mostly chosen R31 Skylines, and the car is as fast as theirs... I have the traction advantage of IRS, and slightly less weight... they have a big horsepower advantage... I am also limited because the Auto trans in my car will not go back to first if I kick it up to 2nd, so I spend a lot of time bouncing off the rev limiter in 1st, because I need the power to keep the tail out on the slower corners that Khanacrosses are mostly about... Cheers, Darryl

My mate rally's a 240K Coupe (and does very well)... back when he first started we were ribbing him about his choice of whale, and he stated "It's a Materpiece" and started to be called The Masterpiece. Another mate then bought a 4 door K, that, because it had four doors was practical, and became known as The Practical Masterpiece... 10 years later I found myself owning the white MR30 Hatch for a khanacross weapon... It was smashed in at the front, but had the TI wheels, which are the only thing of value... I got a new guard and and bonnet for free, inserted a welded 4.9:1 Diff, and it is now The Pratical Materpiece EVOI... I have the lower control arms out to get them lengthened... I wanted a manual, and because of the panel damage am not allowed onto race circuits, so when another 2 MR30s came up on fleaBay for $500 I grabbed them... one was a front end damaged sedan (unfortunately the same side) that had all the wiring and interior eaten by Mice, but had a good engine and manual gearbox... the other a good hatch with a blown headgasket... This is Now the Practical Materpiece EVOII I stripped the sedan of all the bits I wanted, and sent it to the scrapper... I stripped that back half of the interior from the hatch, lengthened the lower control arms by an inch to get more camber (and turn in required because of the locked diff)... The idea is to keep competing in the EVOI until the EVOII is ready and then the EVOI will become a loaner thrasher, or donor car... The springs are heavy but too low for a dirt circuit car, so I will get some new ones from all springs... I have a Cresida AFM to fit up, and a 4.9:1 crown wheel and pinnion I need to pick up... next step is to convert it to a manual, probably using a 240K box, because I can get one for nothing... Just had the cars at home in the driveway, so thought I would post up a couple of happy snaps... Cheers, Daewoo

Sooooo... you 'shopped around', but you don't actually know what your policy provides for... fills me with confidence in your business acumen... Well... As Executive Director of two companies (with a turnover of greater than $Au20M), and Managing Director of a third, I can tell you how our policies work, having sought tenders for our insurance, and performed due diligence... If a business makes a claim, the cost of the payout is spread across 5 years and paid for by the business.... So while the franchisee, having already paid significant fees to Bob Jane T-Marts for a licence, and their advertising, and their access to purchasing (not always cheaper), but not having ANY influence on how the Bob Jane T-Marts company is run, could theoretically falsify the insurance claim, unlike your view, it is unlikely he would come out ahead... This is the same, even when the insurer 'settles' a claim out of court against the wishes of the business... But what would I know, I guess I'll just go back to shirt lifting...