DaveB

Yes letters still match up... and good idea, exactly what I was planning to do

Thanks for the info - yes I'm running a Nistune as well; I just picked up a Z32 and so came back to this thread I was told it's a Tomei plug but the colours are different to yours. I will be getting a full tune when I install.

The stagea shocks are in the Bilstein catalogue, so you should be able to get them through any distributor. Or, you could try SK direct... I did, and was lucky that he had some in stock. That was at the end of last year, so he does still have some sometimes.

That's *INSANE*! So a manual stag' is good for over 200km more per tank??! Damn!

That's correct Sam, that's how I've been running mine. There is a connection on the turbo inlet pipe (suction side) that I have been meaning to connect mine too just so it isn't hanging around the engine bay but I don't think it matters. It may actually be bad to connect it there... haven't tried yet.

I think they are a different offset (I think that was the problem with the R33GTST rotors machined down - wrong offset for RS-Four V)

Solved my harsh suspension issues (fingers crossed) Note to self from now on: always cut off as much from the bump stop as you lower the car! My (already worn shorter) front bump stops, which I thought I shortened enough, had been pummeled rather badly and the last of the thinner part had been broken/squashed off; the passenger stop had been squashed so badly it had fallen past the collet thing at the top of the thick part of the shock shaft and fallen down to rest on the top of the shock body (and I had heard something rattling around there). It has obviously been riding the bump stops pretty bad and that accounts for the very harsh ride. Also explains why it seemed to improve a little over time! (as the bump stops wore down!) Once I replaced them with the super-spongy Bilstein bump stops (hooray for compliance) - trimmed about 20mm shorter (erring on the short side this time!) - it now rides as smoothly/quietly/calmly as it did stock. The difference is amazing, it's like going from off-road to tarmac. I've yet to see how long these super-spongy bump stops will last at the front, and whether they will fall down the shaft and make noise (I don't have the special rubber dust cover things in the 1st picture above to hold them at the top of the shock shaft - they're just a tight fit at the moment).

Basically rotor size and offset (series 1 is smaller). Easier to find series 1 replacements; I think you don't have to stuff about getting series 1 rotors machined to fit. Check the first post of this thread for series 1 rotor part numbers.

Guys, I know a couple of people have had a positive experience with these rotors on S2 RS-Four V *without* machining the OD down, but my experience was different... I discovered serious rubbing/binding after fitting these rotors without machining down the outside diameter; there was no apparent binding after fitting them and checking the sliding section of the caliper for clearance (where it gets closest, in the middle) but at about a K or so's low speed driving down the street I had smoke billowing out of the front wheels. It definitely needs some metal removed from the OD; I'm going to have 3mm taken off to make it match the original rotors. Also, has anybody else who's fitted these noticed that the original rotors are ~37mm thick (by my measurement) but the RDA's are ~33mm thick? Plus the minimum thickness on the original rotors is marked as 26mm, while the new ones are marked as 22mm. This means a difference in piston travel of 4mm which may by significant. At the very least, it approximately half-emptied my master cylinder reservoir once they were on and the pistons were in the new location. I've now gone back to the original rotors, again. And I'll have to get the new ones machined, again. But one day, one day I will fit new rotors to this car...

eh? now I'm really confused... 4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the tailshaft (I think this is backwards but I'll go with it) is MORE turns (slightly) than 4.1 turns of the tyre which is the current situation... which would mean LESS acceleration... I think this is backwards /\ though, because if it were 4.1 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the prop. shaft, and with 4th/overdrive gears being as they are close to 1:1 (sometimes less), that would mean that at 2,000 rpm in overdrive the tyres would be spinning at 8,200rpm which (for a 17" wheel with 245/45 tyre, approximately) is something like 16,400 metres in a minute (circumference of about 2 metres according to http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_size_calculators.html) which is a crazy 984000 metres in an hour... or 984 km/h ?? Am I going nuts or something lol ? Whereas if the final drive ratio were to work as I suspect it does (4.1 turns prop. shaft = 1 turn axel) 2,000 rpm in overdrive would come out at about 58km/h... which I think sounds more reasonable?

Sorry just for my own understanding... you say your current diff's are 4.1? and the new ones are 4.3? So isn't that 4.1 = 4.1:1 4.3 = 4.3:1 I make 4.3:1 "taller" than 4.1:1 (it's a higher ratio)... so won't you be doing less than 185km/h in 3rd with the new 4.3:1 diff? (like ~176km/h or something?) ...hmm reading it again, maybe you meant your diff's are too short, and you want that you should be doing more than 185km/h in 3rd... yeah, that's probably it

Cheers Brad Thanks Bob (KiwiRS4T) for sacrificing a stagea so he could send me a complete ATTESA pump assembly to checkout... I just can't believe it took me so long to find out about the gas canister.

Problem solved! So here's the solution if you have this clicking relay problem (and it is because of the "flat" accumulator - probably is though): - with engine/ignition off, open hydraulic bleeder connection on the underside of the ATTESA assembly (just above the rear diff') - unscrew the accumulator, may lose a few drops of ATTESA system fluid? - recharge or replace the accumulator - replace the O-ring on it if it is looking cracked - screw back in So far mine is fixed, no 4wd light, and the relay clicked only perhaps twice(?) that I noticed on a 45+ minute drive. At last got rid of that infernal clicking!!! PS For those looking for a way to get their cylinders recharged... check out this forum topic (sorry mod's it's on a Toyota forum - don't think there's any conflict of interest there though!). I'm just about to send the guy who does the recharging ("Mooty") my flat accumulator cylinder, to use as an exchange unit, and he says he will soon get back into the recharging and do ATTESA too. So hopefully we will soon have access to an exchange service which can recharge the cylinders for under $150

Interesting thanks Tom. I just fitted a Jayrad replacement today, re. the part number posted earlier in this thread. I haven't taken it for a drive yet but it too had the missing bung (@*$&^#@$) which I have for the time being plugged with an old sensor and silicone, hoping that it makes a 'good enough' seal. Had to get the car back on the road as I've been without wheels for about a week and I have had to keep borrowing a car/getting lifts; I am still in the dark about the dimensions of the stock radiator (was thinking of photographing and documenting the old radiator before I throw it out) and would still love to be able to replace with a 40 or 50mm thick all-alloy one and not have to worry about the stupid plastic tanks splitting. Has anyone else noticed that the S2 radiator part number in FAST has been superseded? Jayrad apparently are sole Aussie distributors for Denso, whom I am guessing may have made the originals? (although I know everything has a Calsonic sticker) so maybe the upgrade was to the thicker (25mm) core, which the Jayrad part is?

Not a bad idea... oil=>air=>water interface... might work a little

Hmm yeah I guess it's pretty hot in Queensland Anybody know which radiator hoses (top & bottom) fit for us series 2 guys, by the way? ...and are R33/R34/GTR hoses the same?

lol OH to have a TIG welder in the garage... and the experience to use it without blowing holes in the work. Unfortunately I already have a good trans cooler (the stock one) but I need a trans *warmer* Funnily enough this is foreign to all of the radiator experts I have talked to... maybe it is true what they say, take your job to an 'expert'. And the trans expert says I need a trans warmer...

Interesting thanks Brendan. I'll try to get a hold of a whole radiator tomorrow as now with mine out the core looks stuffed. On a side note... doesn't it suck how much coolant is lost when you open the cooling system (and you can't be bothered putting it on stands and collecting it with a bunch of clean containers the right size that you don't have, and re-using it... I never can bring myself to reuse coolant... looks so nasty)

Interesting... do you know how close they are to fitting in other ways (hose location/size and bottom pegs/width/depth etc)?

Cheers Chuckie, I think that is the go; I will take the radiator to the radiator place Monday afternoon and try to get hold of this 25mm core radiator that is a direct replacement; I am now armed with the Jayrad part number just in case they don't know what fits As you say, 25mm is better than 16mm. And it is less than the 16mm Nat/Adrad replacement.

Thanks Tom, I will call them on Monday

Thanks Skidkid and Chuckie; yes I called the Adrad distributor and he was good enough to search for me, spent some time on the phone to him, however he didn't know about anything for stagea and I suggested 33 or 34, but we only managed to come up with NIS068PACAK which has the plastic end tanks and is only 16mm thick. Oh, and a price from a dealer was around the $550 mark. I guess if I actually took my radiator in they might be able to find something. 1" (25mm) is thicker than 16mm too so I might check that one out.

Cool... I have heard under $200 for top tank replace; I don't know if this includes a core clean or not (a 'flush' could mean they just let the coolant out and replace it... however that does mean another $50+ for new (decent) coolant) or whether it means I have to take the radiator to them. I assume I do. But the standard core is only 16mm thick FFS. I don't want to spend at least half the cost of an alloy radiator on an old core, to end up with stupid plastic end tanks again, and a 16mm thick radiator which is only going to fail again in 6 months. Trouble is I've been having a hell of a time finding any kind of aftermarket radiator which is thicker than 16mm and has the auto trans cooler/warmer built into the bottom, for under $1,000. So I don't know what to do.

One more question guys... are R33/R34 top & bottom radiator hoses the same? And which one suits Series 2 Stagea? :| I've FAST'ed for ages and they look different to R34 skyline... but I couldn't find a VIN for a turbo, which may be the same...?

Well, looks like it's no good. After lots of research and phone calls, I can't find: a) anything alloy with the auto trans cooler b) anything to suit R33 or R34 with the auto trans cooler which is thicker than 16mm So it looks like I have to ditch the auto trans loop and put up with the longer time to warm-up. Just have to drive it harder in lower gears or something because the only option I have found is a custom-made alloy job with trans cooler for over $900. I suppose I should be grateful for that price though really since a genuine Nissan job is over $1,000 and that's only 16mm thick and has plastic end tanks!