DaveB

Thanks, yes this will happen Friday morning I hope... I'll explain the situation to the tuner DaveB

Thanks for letting us know your results I gather the airbag module plugged right in, no SRS warning lights etc?

Thanks for the reminder I should check the earth too. PRV==pressure relief valve?

Thanks Bob Sounds like yours is still running in dual-stage mode, cool. This idea might work then. Another possibility is to connect about a 5 ohm / 10 watt resistor from the earth connection on the pump to earth, which would have the effect of running the "slow" stage of the pump a little "faster" too.

Well all that has really been holding me back from doing this is the two-stage pump control. ie. it seems that under low-load conditions like partial throttle or idle, the pump is run with a dropping resistor to lower the voltage, make it quieter etc. I want to keep this function if at all possible because I've heard what the pump sounds like at full-bore at idle and I think it would be audible in the cabin. After looking at the ECU pinout it appears that this two-stage control is taken care of on the ground side of the pump connection, so hopefully it is possible to give it a direct 12V feed at the right place, and still have the FPCM ("fuel pressure control module"???) which controls switching the dropping resistor in and out, regulate the pump's duty as before. Here is what I plan to do... the original pump-related part of the ECU circuit: I plan to splice in an extra relay to switch my 8ga direct battery connection (fused separately) like so: Unfortunately I don't think that I'm going to be able to easily access the connection I want on the pump (near connection 2) and I think instead it's going to be right at the pump itself, leaving the FPCM connected to the original relay output. Hopefully this is only a power connection and nothing more and hopefully FPCM==Fuel Pressure Control Module and it therefore hopefully has another connection (like fuel pressure) and thus the connection near 2 is just for power... if that is the case, it won't care about the pump not being connected there anymore. Otherwise it might sense voltage drop or something, and having a pretty much constant load with my new connection (original relay just switching coil on new relay) may fool it to running in its "idle mode" all the time... but I doubt it. Fingers crossed. After seeing how difficult it is to get these pumps going on the test bench, I wonder if this may well make it easier to start... fingers crossed

Must've been something nasty not to dissolve in petrol :S Just seemed to want more volts to kick over, which perhaps my electrical system would not always be up to...

No worries Hugh, I've asked the question and I'll let you know as soon as I do.

Hmm just got too hard I think; wants me to choose a 'subscription package' but there's nothing to choose. So I'm going to have to PM Prank or someone. Ah well I'll get around to it sometime thanks for the help

That takes me to paid subscriptions, is that what we have to do to make a donation? ...thanks, apparently your search button works better than mine lol

Ah ok cheers, what's a paid subscription?

Hi all, Stupid question maybe, but I've searched high and low and I can't work out how to make a donation? Others have done it because I see the icon in their avatars... Donating to the site/community which has helped us all out seems like a nice way to help keep the show running (though I wish we could get rid of those stupid bloody adverts which have added about 5 or 10 seconds loading time - per page!!!), but I think there needs to be a simple and obvious FAQ or link or something, perhaps in the header? Anyone who's made a donation who can help out with how to do it? thanks DaveB

Perhaps M35's stand out that bit more than the C34...?

I suspected the same; I ran it in a clear container and checked it outside for signs of sand etc. but I couldn't find anything... just made the kero smell real bad :S Shook lots of petrol out of it for a few minutes beforehand though; seemed the fuel was trapped in there. I'm not sure about this pump; for ~$200 I'm not about to chuck it, and since it seems to be running fine and I've had a couple of tunes on it... maybe I'll just put it away as a spare.

Hmm just tested the old pump in a bucket of kero; it took about 15 volts to start pumping, but after pumping through a litre or so it'll now pump on as little as ~12V

Yeah the 'relay' is the solenoid in the starter motor itself; starter circuit just handles power to the solenoid. One lead on the starter should have power all the time iirc so just try the screwdriver-across-the-terminals trick (just don't get the wrong one) with ignition on, does it crank?

This is true; I assume they pressure-bled the system or something. Unfortunately it's no small feat to turn the cooler upside-down; I'll ask the transmission place about it next time I see them, thanks. DaveB

Ah - I was only game to make it tight by hand (as I removed it by hand) - maybe I will be a little more 'persuasive' next time Yes needs to be a special sealant that won't dissolve from the petrol too, as every sealant I've tried does. And this stuff doesn't set hard, so thought it might be something special. Never mind I'll experiment

Interesting! Since the cap seems ok and I didn't change it. But the rubber seal looked a bit mashed and worn. I might have to try to fast it and get a replacement. Also does anyone know what that red goo is on the cap which screws onto the tank access hole where the line goes in? It never sets hard but is obviously not bothered by fuel fumes at all.

Maybe; but doesn't everyone else get that "hiss" when they open the fuel cap? I think pretty well every other fuel-injected car that I can remember driving does this?

Good idea, thanks. Sometimes it starts first go, other times it idles bad and really low for as long as 10 seconds thereabouts (no throttle input) before returning to normal (which means revs up to 2k then back to ~1k). I've replaced the pump and the only odd thing I've noticed which is different to before, is that there's no vapour pressure when I open the cap now like there was before.

Yours are the same reasons that I was concerned about my cooler; when I was investigating getting my cooler relocated, I was eventually going to be paying for a new cooler (about $160 I think it would have cost extra) however when I took the car in to MV's the standard cooler was larger than expected, and Mike said it would be fine for the job (with the high stall convertor as well). So we used that, and I saved on a new cooler. I think there are some mounting points around the standard cooler which can be utilised to mount it just like a DC kit or similar.

No worries - fuel pump sold

Yeah pretty easy to change too, now that I've been through that... but good idea to a) disconnect the battery b) have very little fuel in the tank (like 1/4) c) have a big fire extinguisher onhand with someone ready to operate it and d) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ...so yeah if you're comfortable kneeling in the back of your wagon with your arms up to your elbows in a fuel well then you can change it yourself. Pump size is 38mm diameter x 90mm length. That's a match with the standard pump's diameter and as near as makes no difference a match for the standard pump's length. The stock FPR should handle the increased flow rate just fine; at least well enough to drive back to a tuner carefully Most difficult part of fitting an aftermarket pump like the Walbro (which fits easy) in my opinion is changing the electrical connector to fit (although it MIGHT use the same one as stock - can anyone confirm this?)

Cool. So are the end "tanks" just glued on or something?

lol really? hmm well being a new engine maybe i should go to the trouble... in case there is a bad leak somewhere (ie. in a ring)