DaveB

Ah yeah that's right - this one

Cheers Sean. Yes I was pretty happy - you don't notice it at all down there really unless you know it's there; it's recessed a fair way. They didn't have to remove the front bar to fit it either. I discovered that if you remove the driver's headlight (which doesn't require removing the front bar, just the grille) you get better access so I think they may have done that.

Yes I hear it humming a little, for about 3 seconds or so... guess I'll measure flow next.

OK, fuel pump replaced, and it now starts! But, it still takes about 3 seconds or so of cranking before it fires, and then it runs pretty bad - about 500 revs - for a while until it eventually begins to run properly. It's as though it loses fuel line pressure every time I shut it off. Isn't there a one-way check valve somewhere that's meant to keep pressure in the line? Anyone know where abouts? Maybe *that*s failing...? I've replaced the pump, filter, checked all clamps, blown compressed air down the rubber & metal lines... I can't think what else could be wrong that's not fuel-rail related?

Second that - I'm too late for the Merry Christmas so Merry New Year instead everyone

This is how my (_stock_) trans' cooler is mounted on my series 2 RS Four. The relocation was done by MV Automatics (Adelaide). I don't do any towing, but I also had a heavy-duty high stall torque convertor upgrade done at the same time. I've noticed it takes a little bit longer (maybe few minutes) to warm up in the morning and start changing into 4th/overdrive, which tells me that moving at least, it has better cooling capacity than stock. Feels warm after a drive; used to get rather warm before though. No trouble after ~6 months.

Pretty sure they're the same; I used a Bosch part, can't remember what the part no. is (I'll have a look for it) but I just called Sprint and asked for the Bosch EGO sensor for an EF Falcon lol. Then cut & solder plugs. Sensor cost ~$70.

When I got my Nistune install and tune with the gcg hiflow (stock SMIC) I went from 130rwkw to 194rwkw and still get about the same distance to a tank - around 400-430kms. So yeah, I think it worked for me

In real-life, with R35 GTR rims... awesome. Better if they could make up their mind and choose 1 colour though I think

Well I got a new fuel pump today (Walbro GSS-342 - same as the old one) and mailed the 040 I bought off to its buyer. Fitting the pump was pretty straight-forward; opted to use the old filter sock, after some cleaning and blasting with compressed air, as it looked larger and less restrictive than the new one. Getting the pipes connected up to the "lid" of the tank though, whilst getting the float and low fuel senders into the hole at the same time AND not bending them, was a *pain*. The Walbro sure is a straightforward upgrade; it fits so well in the stock location that even the connector fits into the connector hole in the rubber grommet in the cradle. After only the 3rd run or so, I had some trouble starting it again. I'm not sure if this is maybe related to my alarm/immobiliser now... though the pump was definitely dead before. Also my climate control unit (xanavi) has taken to switching itself off randomly all-of-a-sudden. Argh. I will pull that and investigate it and alarm at same time. Perhaps the workshop disturbed some wiring when they removed & refitted the engine.

Hey that's interesting, thanks Lachlan. Didn't find that one! Just what I was after. However ditching the cradle completely like that means no direct supply of fuel to the pump when the inch or two that's left in the bottom of the tank runs away during a corner... and I thought that pump had been designed to mount vertically? The pickup covers the whole end; so as the fuel level begins to drop a lot of it will become exposed... Sold my 040 now but having a fuel pump die on you is still a little concerning... had a bit of a hassle starting it again tonight, after only about its 3rd real run since changing the pump. Not sure if it was still bleeding air out or I had bad fuel or what.

Really? I thought they would last longer if they didn't work as hard... well that was my excuse for not getting around to it anyway I have a length of 8ga cable already run to the battery; I would just need the relay and I'm all set... but the extra noise at idle... ahhhh I'll think about it.

Sold pending payment

Ah yeah it does suck having your stag' off the road Mine seems to spend about as much time off the road as on it... I am lucky to have a (parents') loan car for all the time my stagea spends in my garage or someone else's. Your situation sure reads like the typical shift solenoid scenario... actually I remember Mike at MV's saying that the solenoids are sensitive to heat; they heat up and start faulting, but when cold the fault is sometimes difficult even to measure. If you can get new solenoids in there (they come on some sort of 'rack' - shift solenoids A and B - and they replace a couple other things as well like a pressure regulator) I reckon that will solve your issues. Fingers are crossed... sounds like you have got the rest of the box taken care of and plenty of life left in the bands and the cogs?

Well all I know is i've never had a problem with the S2 in the heat. When I first got it there were a few occasions when the light came on and I pulled over & reset it with the ignition. There is a procedure on here somewhere (search for auto transmission fault codes) which will help you read out the fault code and identify it. My shift solenoids were my culprit; eventually they failed completely, putting trans into limp mode and I got them replaced. Been spot on ever since. New shift solenoid racks (including new pressure regulator), shift kit & alloy shift servo has totally transformed the 'box.

Sounds like it; had power but no pressure before the FPR on the outlet of the fuel filter in the engine bay. I've replaced filter & blown compressed air down the lines and no sign of any blockages. If my pump is full of sand or something it could be a long process to make a warranty claim (bought off eBay about 12 months ago), so not sure if I'll get that far or not. But the only place in Adelaide that I can find who have (or will have tomorrow) a GSS-342 in stock want $250 (:S) so maybe I will have to try. Filter didn't appear blocked either, btw - I shook it and no fuel came out, but then I just blew through it and lots poured out, so looks OK (though old - 40,000ks old). Replaced it with a nice new one. Could I make a suggestion to those replacing their fuel filter... be prepared to change any number of the many short rubber hoses & clamps you encounter getting the bugger out, because sometimes you may need to be rather vigorous and damage can result...

Thanks guys. Yes pump & cradle is out, I will take photos if anybody's interested. I wasn't game to stick it in a bucket of petrol lol but I guess I could Yes I have got a new Ryco filter (Z201) to replace my (near new) fuel filter, since I guess it has done nearly 45,000 K's () After that I might check the flow of the new one on the car. Thanks for the tip Bob. I see what you mean about the camber trouble... I don't reckon you'd need much less than a 1/4 tank and a mild left incline to lose fuel pickup!

It says in my profile info. but I'm in Adelaide by the way

Thanks Josh. Yeah, I can see what you mean about the foot being difficult to clog; it certainly doesn't look clogged. I'd like to dry-test the pump but I'm not sure if that's good for it, and it's still full of petrol(!) - shake and more comes out... There doesn't appear to be much dirt around; I see a bit in the bottom of the tank, and some metallic-looking specks around the place too (I heard this can be the insides of the fuel pump, and / or its brushes). I did fish a piece of sealant out of the tank and a clamp which was floating. I think the Bosch pump would have to be more reliable and higher performance, considering the massive difference in size/weight, but I would really have to hack up my cradle to fit it, and I don't know how well the thing is supposed to be encapsulated in the cradle etc. to ensure I don't get fuel starvation problems. So I may just have to go for another Walbro... and I think a new fuel filter.

Thanks, checked fuses/connections, verified power at the pump. I should have mentioned, no pressure... can squeeze & bend hoses. Can't feel pulsing. Plus it fired once before it died, and has not given a single puff since.

Well car has been a bit difficult to start for the first few days after getting it back, spent a month roughly all up at the workshop getting the engine rebuilt. Fuel pump is less than 12 months old (actually I think it's closer to 6) and was installed by the same workshop new (Walbro GSS-342, the 500hp in-tank job). I suspect the fuel pump because the car cranks fine, just won't fire. When I turn just the ignition on (not cranking) I hear a strange noise like a "chug... chug... chug... chug... <then silence>" from the boot/fuel tank area. It sounds like the pump's trying to crank over and can't. 1/4 tank of fuel; new fuel filter at compliance (about 40,000 K's ago), new fuel sock with fuel pump. Measured 12.5 volts or so at ignition at the pump connection. Anyone else had a similar experience with their stag at similar K's (~134,000)? Especially with this model pump? Not bagging the pump... I'm actually going to replace it with another Walbro (same model - I bought a bosch 040 but it's massive by comparison and I don't have the inclination to hack up my cradle for what is really a vertical-mount pump).

I have brand new & sealed in box one (single - 1 only) Bosch 040 fuel pump for $210 including delivery within Australia. If the charge to me is less than $20 I will send via express post. No fuel has touched pump - it is brand new and in a sealed bag. I just bought this pump yesterday with the intent to replace my Walbro pump (which has died). However I've since discovered it's going to be easier for me to replace my pump with another Walbro to make things quicker and easier. So I am selling this pump at a loss to try to cut back on wasted money spent on unused Stagea upgrades! Please post here and/or PM me for deposit details. I will be checking this topic regularly. thanks, DaveB

Did you find out anything in the end Ruby? I just got a 040 replacement for my 12-month-old Walbro (which died ) and could do with some advice on how to get it into the bracket - it's frickin huge compared to the GSS-342 Walbro!

Thanks guys, yes that sounds pretty good. I didn't realise break-in should be done so early. But if it's in the first couple hours of "engine time" (eg. running time) then I managed that... it was on about the 3rd day but after only about 80-100k's of driving. I took it to some hills roads and did a few runs, mostly in 2nd, from ~2,000 revs to 4, 4 1/2, 5 or thereabouts, trying hard to keep boost on zero. This is not easy! Especially when you have the split front dump, the hi-flow cat, the ball bearing turbo, the straight-through exhaust etc. etc. all tuned to make boost by 2,000 in 2nd... so when you say "hard", I am not sure if what I'm doing is "hard"... but it's as hard as I can make it without making more than 1-2psi max boost. Pretty sure I have the idea though thanks; I have been increasing the rev's a bit; haven't tried in a lower gear though like 3rd or 4th as a) boost builds too easily b) doing warp speed by 4,000 revs and c) I subsequently run out of road I wondered about coasting down after accelerating or just changing gears to let the rev's drop quickly (because I'm in an auto, coasting back to 2,000 revs again can take quite a while) but I read somewhere that suddenly dropping the rev's was bad, so I coasted Sounding and running great so far, haven't lost any coolant or oil so fingers crossed... will be the new year before I can get that first oil change though.

whoa, NIIICE. geez if u saw pic #1 bearing down on you in your rear-view mirror you'd be a little surprised lol looks awesome. Haven't seen the black bonnet done before either. Interesting.