DaveB

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I was recommended "light hills work" and to keep rev's between about 2 and 4/4.5. I have to do 1,000K's apparently before I take it back to get the first oil change and inspection. Also the head bolts are apparently not going to be re-torqued, as this is a feature of the 3-layer metal head gasket. I'll go do some 'light hills work' sometime soon lol. hearing a bit of a funny noise around the passenger footwell area at about 3,000 revs or so; like the climate control fan makes when it has leaves in there; doesn't sound engine-related but I'll mention it to the workshop on my visit in the new year.

Cheers Hartley, surrrre am! The break-in sucks already though and I've only done about 150K's (of 1,000) The difficulty I'm having is that the instructions were basically "drive it off-boost, between 2k-4k rpm, up hills is good (give it a 'light workout' - accelerate moderately up to ~4k rpm) but NO BOOST!" (well 1-2psi is ok lol) ...this is hard because a) the stagea drinks fuel when driven between 2-4k everywhere (I've locked out overdrive - gearbox in '3') and b) with the hi-flow and exhaust, driving at those rev's, it's pretty hard to keep the stagea OFF boost so break-in is fun but I can say... even off boost, the stagea is faster than a few cars I have driven So glad to have power steering and climate control back too.

Nice. How much for RB30 sump adapter kits? I know the full-on baffled sumps are damned expensive... Well I have finally got the stagea back on the road!!! Rebuilt engine is running v nicely... can't really tell much difference from how it was before, except that the loud as rattle is gone, and sounds very nice and smooth. Idle is better, doesn't rev out to 1,500-2,000 rpm at startup. Sounds nice and 'burbly', a little more like an RB IMO. Total bill for the rebuild, including labour, was about $5k + bits (for me I would add $800 for the pistons so that's ~$5,800 so say 6 grand). Not cheap but *everything's new* (or rebuilt anyway). All nice and shiny now Got to get hold of the photos of the assembly...

A nice-enough looking, AWD wagon with leather and... a dual-clutch gearbox on a V10 with twin turbos??? Hell yes count me in too

Nice pintaline and Rob... wish I had the time & access to more RB30DET resources. But my rebuilt RB25DET is finished and ready; another set of rocker covers are getting colour matched to the "precious steel pearl" powder coat of my original ones (but in plain old enamel this time ) and tomorrow it's back into the car hooray... mechanic is very confident that it's all going to be happy and will not bind/have large clearances etc etc. Makes me feel better too... Have some photos which I will get back tomorrow or the next day of the build and (hopefully) install. A stagea with an empty engine bay is a sorry sight Engine is all rebuilt now though and it looks great. Block's been hot-tanked and painted with new welsh plugs... really looks the part. Now just need to get the rocker covers coated again and should be back looking like new. The guys who are assembling it have really made light work of such a big job (for me, without a hoist)... it's not gonna be real light on the wallet but oh well, I'll only be doing this once I guess, may as well enjoy it while I have the chance to have a 0km engine

Haha @ the build quility point!! What, for those of us who don't know, is an SS? 3.6L V6 or V8?

Mine was in excellent condition at 134,000 k's... then I put some coarse grit blasting compound in the oil and drove it for a couple of thousand and it was *still* going strong. Decided to rebuild to be safe

Hi all, Just thought I'd post some info here about the process I'm currently going through with my series 2 RS-Four (V). It all started with a rather nasty tappet rattle (which I thought was just the change to Castrol 5w/30 oil) in September. But it turned out to be something rather worse than that and it has been at the mechanics getting a full engine rebuild for about the last month. Cause turned out to be sand blasting grit getting into the oil. This wore the head quite badly and deposits of the alloy paste from the head and some sandblasting grit can be seen in this photo of the sump: How did the grit get in there? Well, probably when I got my rocker covers powdercoated about 6 months ago. I took all the usual precautions, including taping every orifice (and tape was still on there even after the powdercoating process) and blasting out the baffles with 100psi compressed air and solvent afterwards. I didn't notice any grit coming out. But it must have later on. A stupid thing to do maybe but oh well, we don't repair - we improve... So I managed to get hold of another NEO R34 head off a forum member on SAU for $300 and got it rebuilt at a machinists; the block has been hot-tanked, bored, the crank washed and micro-polished etc. and the bottom end has been rebuilt with CP pistons at first oversize. Things are progressing and I have got some photos of the rebuild which I will post some of after I've checked them out over the next week. So getting it back together... slowly. Will eventually have something with 0 kms on it though, which sounds bloody good. Especially since even at 130,000k's it still sounded/felt new. Oh, and fingers crossed but for those of you who may be considering it, it does look like you can get a decent rebuild with forged pistons for under 10 grand... but wait until I've got the first few thousand k's on it yet before I can say for sure

Really? At 6mm oversize? That's interesting... maybe I'll try fitting them up before I get them machined then...

Hmm would that be a whiteline KTA128?

Could be the climate control fan - does it stop when you turn climate control off? Mine had leaves in it. The ATTESA relay clicks like a bar-stud too but that is driver's side, approximately directly behind the steering wheel (lift the bonnet - it is the big brown one in the corner. Should be able to feel it clicking at idle, and observe flickering headlights/loss of power when it does).

Oil temp. sender is there I'm pretty sure, but not the wiring.

Just connect it to 12V, preferrably near the battery. It should be earthed through the case or something.

Cheers Gerard!!

Hi all, I have re-installed my PC lately and haven't gotten FAST going again yet. I need to know the part number for the engine mounts in said S2 250RS-FourV (auto) stageas please Even better, does this model use the same mounts as 32/33/34 GTR? Or do the GTR ones only suit RB26? I have a cracked one and the cheapest/easiest replacements seem to be a Nismo set off eBay Don't know if they'd suit 250RS stagea? It says they'll suit R32 GTS-4 (RB20)?! and RB26DETT in GTR/WGNC34... so should fit, no? cheers for any help by those more FAST-literate DaveB

ooh yeah they're different http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...im-t214105.html

I just need all the clips / screws / fasteners that hold the grille in; I don't suppose you have/want to sell those for $20? They should post pretty easy

Found - got a working window motor. Thanks JayMei (and cheers Chef!)

Pretty sure they were 7693S (R33 GTsT front slotted) as still sold in the group buy on SAU. They were quite a different offset; I think RS73 said 5mm. They were at least this far off and no hope of making them work on the front of a S2 4wd auto stag without an equivalent spacer, which I personally don't fancy. I just ordered a set of RDA954S (standard slotted) so I will let the thread know how they go! Edit: Whoops missed a few posts here... replied above already oh well

Hi all, My driver's door window motor has died. Does anyone have a working one they are willing to sell? For a S2/2000 RS-FourV. Please PM or post here thanks, DaveB

Bargain, solenoids are more than that alone. Nearly $1,000 worth of improvements there. Almost tempted to get this as a spare!

I can't confirm DBA 4963 because my rotors were RDA's but I can confirm the R33GTsT offset rotors do not fit the front of my series 2 RS-FourV stagea, no matter what I machine the OD to

Lol OK thanks Gary Last wheel alignment I had they said +0.3mm toe per side was the best they could get with the standard adjusters. I was kind-of figuring on ending up with more positive toe when I lowered it as it's currently sitting over 390mm centre-to-guard at the rear; and I know camber is at the limit already at nearly 1.5 degrees negative (again apparently at max factory adjustment). Other guys have said they need more adjustment than two sets of bushes will allow at ~360mm in a series 2. So I guess I'll start with just the KTA128 adjustable camber arms; they're not much more than 4 sets of bushes anyway at about ~$330 a pair. Just a by-the-way... apparently Whiteline aren't making the swaybars anymore, and I can't get the 24mm rear ones? The distributor I spoke to told me Whiteline sell only stagea-specific Selby bars (?) and the price of those is something horrid... nearly $500 each?!

Excellent

Can anybody tell me if the Whiteline KTA117 arms can be used as rear toe arms on the C34 Stagea? Somehow I suspect that I'm not going to be able to get enough toe adjustment when I lower mine as I'm already at + 0.3mm each side at standard height. Here are the 117's... the reason I suspect they may be compatible is that they're specified as toe/camber arms on an R34 in a whiteline suspension kit: link to Whiteline website PDF Here's an image of the rear toe arm I mean (or, what I am *pretty sure* is the rear toe arm lol!) I have 'borrowed' this image from SydneyKid's group buy thread, I hope you don't mind SydneyKid! Anybody used the KTA117's here? Haven't had a chance to measure up stock length and compare 'cause car is at the workshop atm. Also has anybody used KTA128's for the rear camber arms? They are adjustable arms but BUSHed not pillow ball/rose joint/spherical bearings.