DaveB
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Everything posted by DaveB
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Thanks, perhaps tonight I'll pull them all off again, and then try new and old one at a time, and run it as I add each belt to find out if it squeals.
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Well, spray on belt grip didn't work. Think I'll swap back to the old belts tonight, after checking aircon tensioner pulley for alignment.
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Thanks Hertz... Commodore's have serpentine belts don't they? I don't think they're meant to take belt grip? Probably my experience will be the same as yours knowing my luck however... thanks for the warning Yes, the idler pulley was probably carried over by the workshop. However, the squeal gets worse/comes back when either: - AC clutch engages (AC belt) - fan comes on (alternator/water pump belt) - I turn approaching full-lock (power steering belt) ie. all belts are affected.
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Thanks Michael. I suppose I could record the noise but if you just imagine a really loud belt squeal, that is constant. Revving the engine makes it louder. If I spray some water on the belts at the moment, it will go away for a few seconds. The sandpaper on the grooves sounds interesting; it would flatten out the peaks a bit and make the belt sit potentially lower. I might give that a go. I plan to get some CRC brand belt grip and try that tonight. If that fails (and I'm thinking it will) then I will try the light sanding. RB25's have a viscous fan too so I might have to take that off again.
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Hi all, Apologies I know this has been asked before but getting nowhere... Just changed timing belt, and replaced all accessory belts at the same time because I had some squealing at startup. Now, though, it's REALLY bad, and won't go away until I've done a couple of minutes of driving, then rev'd beyond 3,000 and let off the accelerator. All new belts, various degrees of tension (but fairly tight for what I'd like). How have people solved belt squeal? I've had this issue with several stageas now, and I don't know what the common element is. I suspect it's glycol on the belts from filling the radiator. VERY frustrating! I've had the car back from workshops after 100,000K services and it's had the problem; I've had an engine rebuilt with new belts and same issue; my friends cars have it bad... pulling my hair out with this one. I've tried: - spraying water on the belts, both stopped and while running - spraying water/detergent on the belts, both stopped and while running - brake/parts cleaner (good old carburettor cleaner, dissolves most things) - tightening belts - loosening belts - changing engines (not to fix belt squeal, but it didn't help) - rain dance So annoying, after doing so much work over the weekend to replace timing belt, to then have to drive around in what sounds like the loudest mouse choir on wheels. Any ideas which I haven't already tried would be welcome. cheers DaveB
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Hi all, Does anyone know what heater core fits series 2? I believe that series 1 will accept an R32/33/34 core, but I need to know if a series 2 will accept same. cheers DaveB
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Cheers, that's an interesting one. Car is a series 2 in this case. I managed to find another ECU, now just need to install my Nistune board.
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Cheers. I've got a tune file from the tuner (not a base tune) to use, I'm more worried about physical differences between ECUs, ie. how much they drive the injectors. I'm just a bit worried that minor variations there could change things.
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Ah - nistune has a listing for it, thanks for that. I was mainly concerned about my tune on my current ECU working on this ECU, without any differences in how it drives the injectors etc (I don't know if minor variations are possible between ECU models or something - different output circuits maybe?). Since Nistune's type 4 base image has the same part number as this ECU, I assume they gave me the ECU out of a '98 stagea. then 0V811 = '99 and 0V812 = 2000 (my year). Hopefully the differences are minor enough that when I load my tune file my AF ratios are very very close to what they were with my old ECU? I don't have a wideband to test this.
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Hi all, I need some help with a FAST part number again... My ECU is an Hitachi, 23740 0V812 and I have a replacement which is 23740 0V810. Can anybody tell me if this replacement is compatible? cheers DaveB
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A little old... but the Bosch post information is also incorrect for series 2 - two of the belts need to be reversed. The correct Bosch part numbers for series 2/NEO are: Alternator/water pump (innermost belt, feed this over the fan) 4PK890 Aircon (middle belt) 4PK910 Power steering (outermost belt) 4PK865
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Hmm, I used to know its location... I believe it's one of the "electrical parts" fuses under the dash, but i guess pulling the relay should have the same effect.
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Just pull the attesa fuse and remove the front drive shaft
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Yes, I wonder about that too. The R33 ECU definitely does - it's pin #56: On the R34 system(s), I suspect it's pin 79 "ECM TCM, TCS/ABS integrated control signal [multiple communication]", which sounds like a data line. Matt from Nistune also told me there was programming in the ECU which was different for auto and 4WD. But that was a long time ago, with an older version of the type 4 boards.
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Yeah, there are certainly more 2WD ones around for some reason. But I need a 4WD ECU to work with my 4WD tune file (also the car is 4WD of course). I might try a couple of overseas importers.
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Well, tried everything, consult interface in the ECU is dead. It's unusual apparently. So I am now looking for a 4WD auto ECU from 99-2001.
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Awesome, thanks Bob. Just tried it, I didn't start the car, but with ignition on the consult port worked. So looks like my issue is with my ECU. For reference, car was a 99 RS auto (2WD).
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Thanks Bob
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Hi all, I can't get my consult interface to work and I suspect a dud ECU consult interface. It's a S2 RSFour. I have checked it has 12V ignition connection and a good earth, and RX & TX wire continuity from the pins on my consult interface to the pins on the board. I have tried two different consult interfaces which work in other cars. So it must be the ECU - argh. I only have a 2WD ECU to swap in and test (both cars are auto though, and S2). Is anybody familiar enough with the ECU pinouts to know whether a 2WD ECU can be safely connected to a AWD ECU? I suspect it will be OK, because from a quick inspection it appears as though the only connection to the ATTESA system appears to be "integrated control signal (multiple communication)" which sounds like data to me - hopefully disconnected in the 2WD ECU? I have been going by a R34 ECU pinout. I don't know if it's different for stagea. Anybody know if it will be safe to test the 2WD ECU in the 4WD car? cheers DaveB
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Finally got to these. I used some ADM R31 ones. They seemed to fit OK, looked like the same thread, but they were taller one screwed all the way in (bonnet too high) so I just cut about 10mm off the tops of them in a bench vice. Work fine now and plenty of adjustment.
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I just assumed they were unique? Cheers
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Hi all, Can somebody help me out with a part number for the rubber things that support the bonnet in the front corners? Mine have perished and my bonnet is bouncing, but anything I've seen second-hand is already destroyed. cheers DaveB
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Cheers Bob. Peter was very helpful. It appears that I still have a consult issue though.
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Thanks Scott
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I had considered doing my own in-tank mix of 98 and E85 too... when you say to err on the side of "rich", do you mean err on the side of more 98 (lower % ethanol) or more E85 (higher % ethanol)? The issue I think with the United E85 is too much ethanol means it will effectively lean out, as the burn ratio would actually call for more fuel, so I need to add some 98 to reduce the overall ethanol percentage probably to about 75% (to be safe)? By my rough calculations (I'm terrible at maths), if 51 litres (ethanol content) / 60 litres (rough tank capacity) = 85% (united mix), then 45L / 60L = 75%... so I add about 6 litres of 98 and then fill the rest with E85. Sound OK? I think a wideband O2 sensor sounds like a good idea, and Nistune supports that now (although I'm mainly worried about the high load/max boost/max revs type scenarios). Where have you got your sensor installed, is it mounted permanently?
