DaveB

Just checking... does the R34GTT use the same master cylinder (BM57) as the R33GTST?

Awesome thanks Phil. I don't know why but for some reason I always thought you had to pressure-bleed cars with ABS. Apparently not... = easier

Ah I wondered if the engine was the same enough to fit. I think the same thing is possible with the supercharger kit for the V35 skylines with the VQ35DE isn't it?

Cool... good size & shape of radiator. Looks like one of the many kit configurations available from Frozenboost: http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?cPath...10dfc0c1dd16dc8 OK so there are only 3 on that page... but view any of the kits and you can select various different options for pump type/radiator size/fans/reserve tank etc.

Just a thought, do two turbos fit? Can you have a VQ35DETT?

Classic!! Would love to take the stag' onto the beach but too afraid of what the sand/salt would do to it.

I second the cat' being the lowest point on the car; it definitely is on mine (no HICAS for me ). ATTESA makes off-roading more feasible in the stagea than your regular 2WD family wagon (especially if said wagon happens to be FWD). I know on the odd camping trip I haven't minded parking it in the soft stuff knowing that I'll just be able to drive straight out in the morning. Has got me wondering though, does ATTESA work in reverse?? lol

Hey awesome thanks - no pics there but that must be the one (dunno what these original guys look like!) I would grab one but I just got a brass needle valve on ebay and also I'm not sure if the turbosmart is just a "tap"/adjustable hole... several places people mention it has a spring and ball-bearing setup of some kind... makes me think it could vary the hole as the boost pressure changes... dunno? Rob - that's some awesome info thanks for that! Also you're only running 1psi more than me and making about 40-50kw more than me Glad I can stick with the standard airbox though.

Had a go at google not real successful. Didn't know what to search for and anything with "RB25" returns a lot of general info (lots of which comes from SAU ) But thinking about it... there must not be oil pressure there either, or there would be no pressure difference to make the oil flow through the turbo... so perhaps the oil return on the turbo is somehow plumbed into an oil gallery or something which is actually on the pickup side of the oil pump? I don't know anything about it, but I figure there must be a low-pressure side of the oil pump as well? Making the turbo oil return a somewhat ideal - and perhaps the only - place to plumb a return from your second oil catch can when using that setup? This would be no good for my original thinking though I guess because this connection must somehow be shielded from blow-by or else the turbo would surely starve of oil under boost! so need somewhere like the dipstick hole, but bigger, which sees blow-by pressure.

cool! didn't know that! but then there's that old debate... how much (power wise) is a pod filter worth... got to change pipes add cold airbox etc etc

/\ Cool. Which reminds me... obviously the standard airbox was no hurdle to achieving your 225awkw. You didn't need a pod (which I think is a defect in SA? -OT!) Just to stray OT a little how much boost are you running to achieve your incredible 225awkw with the nismo SMIC?

Ah, something like this? http://www.fnwvalve.com/FNWValve/prodDetai...OCK_ID=10000868 That doesn't look too bad... pretty small... and yeah the range of adjustment is important obviously must be as fine as possible; and I remember people saying that the mechanical boost controllers/bleed valves were very fiddly ie. small adjustment made a big difference. Is your brass valve too bulky? Could you perhaps cable-tie it up out of the way somewhere under something?

Not sure where the reply above was directed /\ (ie. which post was being answered)... but I think I understand that PCV is not as important as I thought. ...and I have another question. If the blow-by originates in the crankcase, and then travels up the oil galleries into the head, I guess it would be best to vent the sump? ie. cut-out the middle man, or so-to-speak, and let the oil galleries carry oil instead of blow-by? But, this makes me wonder... how do turbo drains still work when there is positive crankcase pressure? ('cause they feed into the sump/block...)

Do all S2 S's (manuals) have HICAS? EDIT: By 'SUV spec' I don't mean an 'official' factory option... that is just what I think it looks like now that it has 17" rims on it with slightly greater overall diameter... sits about half an inch or so higher off the ground than stock... and stock it was high! btw, I read that there was an actual "SUV variant" which had higher suspension... can't remember where I read it though.

I can't remember exactly what it was (posted it when I got my rims on) so measured it again... fronts ~390mm, rears ~400mm

haha yeah sounds a bit like a tractor off boost though... don't even know what on boost sounds like 'cause i never tried when mine was like that...

Hi all, Just an idea... this has probably been mentioned before. Regarding the vent hole size for the IEBC. I found that the S2 one seems to be about 2mm which, according to the tuner, is same as R34 (which would make sense ) Thing is, I think 1mm would be closer to ideal for my setup, because currently my solenoid comes on at 30% at load point 10, has to do 70% duty cycle by load point 34 and it's at 100% by load point 50. A couple of guys have used some sort of adjustable venturi valve, which sounds ideal. But I don't know where to get one and the hardware places I've asked have no idea what I'm talking about (makes sense cause I don't either!) I thought about it and it really just needs to be a basic tap/faucet type device, no? Just a valve which restricts the size of a hole, regardless of the shape? The closest I have found was a watering system dripper, which was cheap but was neither durable or I would think reliable since the slightest knock/warp from heat and the hole size would change dramatically. Plus not a very fine range of adjustment. Soooo I was wondering, the old "boost tee" turbo-smart style "boost bleed" valves, which at one stage could be had for like 30 bucks (but now are all around $80-90 on ebay wtf???) weren't they just a tap with a very fine range of adjustment? Or did they have something else fancy to them? An example of the device I'm talking about (this is a new one off ebay so I don't know if it is different to the old ones). ...what do you think, cheap & very convenient way of adjusting vent size? Or not suitable?

Cool, I thought mine was the only SUV-spec' series 2 ! But that is the way it came too. My shocks aren't Nismo, just black body. Felt pretty new when I got it... they feel a bit worn now though.

I've got two big oval mufflers in my system (magnaflows) and it still drones from the back... though it was pretty *#$%ing loud after I fitted my dump pipe and it didn't line up with the cat, driving it to the exhaust shop with only one bolt in and a big gap between dump pipe and cat...

Where can this connection to the sump be made on an RB25? Could you just T-into the turbo oil return line? Also would it need a PCV valve?

I'm guessing yes. I will let people know when I know for sure.

lol pity about the PM but going off the sizes Rob (KiwiRS4T) provided in the first post for the SMIC, the biggest difficulty fitting a core that I can see (purely as a "thought experiment") would be the height constraint of ~225mm (that's not a lot). Whilst FrozenBoost don't give any idea of power figures/suitability for a given core on their website, and I haven't been able to get any out of them even when asking about a specific core, the one included in their '600hp kit' sounds like the size i'd need, bit conservative I hope. That's 12.25" long/high though, and that's too high (though it does include the end tanks and pipes which stick straight out the ends). So I think the biggest difficulty for me would be A) getting it to fit height-wise and B) getting the pipes in the right location, because I am hoping to be able to use a short elbow and make it basically fit in the stock SMIC location. Though my research has purely been guesswork so far. I saw these cores at first and thought "gee that one looks a lot like the SMIC"... still looking for something more exact dimensions-wise and not sure how much metalwork ( ) would be required to make it fit... the aim is for none, just pipework and mounts/hangers. Gonna use the Bosch pump in the DR? Should be more than up to the task if that other little inline pump was enough. I wouldn't think a water-air system would need much in the way of a huge pressure or flow, though - just reliability. Yeah for the front mount heat exchanger one could use just about anything surely - on the site it seems to suggest that it won't have to deal with engine cooling system pressures either. PS if and when I do get to taking my whole front bar off to measure/fit something like this, I am probably going to want to get it resprayed 'cause the chips/cracks are getting bad and starting to work their way up the front lip so could be an expensive exercise

Cool - bit more drastic than my plans! look forward to seeing the result!

Hey all just wondering, if I make a connection on the plenum side of the PCV valve won't I get boost pressure? I thought one of the functions of the PCV valve (in a boosted engine, at least) was to prevent boost pressure from entering the crankcase, yet to allow the crankcase to vent to the inlet under vacuum (thus, a one-way check valve... just more critical in boosted applications?) Just wondering 'cause I don't want my catch can to go BOOM!

Hmm yeah its actually $400 (don't know htf got that wrong??) here on sau but for that price + fabricate shroud etc I might try water-air. Just got to work up the enthusiasm. Most urgent issue is spark breakdown anyway.