DaveB

Hi, any S2 stagea/R34 GTST JJR coilpacks in stock yet?

Digging up an old thread... with a question... would a trust sidemount be an upgrade over an R34/series 2 stagea sidemount, do you think? Reason I ask is there's a trust sidemount cooler available for $300, says to suit R33. I don't know whether the mounting points would be in the right place to make it fit a series 2 stagea; but I just assumed that since apparrently the series 2 stagea SMIC = R34 GTT SMIC and S1 SMIC = R33 SMIC, that the R33 trust one would fit S2 stagea... anybody know??? The trust looks better dimensions-wise, except not as tall.

Hmm, neither JJR or Yellow Jacket make coils to suit NEO engines yet. So that means that the only coilpack options available to series 2 owners are OEM Nissan coilpacks (not REALLLY an option, in my case at least, at $1000+) or Splitfires. ...or chop up your $200 coilpack harness and wire in different coils... can someone suggest any other solutions for S2 owners?

Haha yeah I noticed the photos gone when I hit "reply"! I found the opposite with the woodgrain wheel (mine's a 'prime' and thus originally had all the woodgrain trim too) - I found the woodgrain part at the top 2/3rds too grippy, and it wouldn't slip through my hands like the leather. But the woodgrain was a classy look; I just liked the metallic-silver look better (I'm not talking about the bright silver of the series 1's, that was different - too bright - but series 2's have a darker, almost charcoal, metallic silver which is a bit more classy IMO). PS houndstooth checker lol! never seen that but I wonder if the bright green tartan of the TR7's over here could give that a run for its money...

...bit of a timewarp there but awesome interior John. You're lucky to have found a S2 in bayside blue AND a prime version! do you like the wood? ps i know exactly what you mean about there being nothing to replace it with! certainly not an australian-made wagon! Only a GTR... and that has a tiny boot

oops. he even mentioned it in the thread lol oops.

lol too many for the measly small power figures... but the usual: - gcg rebuilt (hiflow) original turbo (neo) - split front & dump pipe with enlarged front tube to match enlarged exhaust outlet on turbo - 5-inch body hi-flow cat - 3-inch straight-through/mandrel catback - nistune chipped ecu - jaycar/silicon chip independent boost controller - heavy duty high stall torque convertor for the auto, 'stage 1' shift kit from mv's w/aluminium servo upgrade that's pretty much it... yeah way too many for this power I know... but I am still running the standard neo SMIC and it looks completely stock, even have twin tailpipes. I hope that I can get to the sunny side of 200wkw with a FMIC of some sort... boost is 'limited' to about 15psi at the moment. I was running up to about 18 before the boost controller but tuner said SMIC would be a bit risky like that. I love the torque it has now though... just cruises up hills at just under 3,000 revs and 2nd gear pulls almost as hard as first used to... you can really feel the 1st-2nd change... but before someone says, yes I know I could've made this power and more on the standard turbo... but mine had the whine, bad. And it is to my mind almost as much to buy a decent low-drop front-mount intercooler to improve the standard turbo's breathing as it was for my ~$1,500 ish investment in getting the turbo rebuilt (ok so some of you guys have found intercooler bargains). I do miss the response of the ceramic turbo though. It did spool very well. But the high-stall convertor and IEBC really helps that, and stall launches are awesome now (even better than with the stock turbo). Just gotta get rid of my damn misfire (spark breakdown) which is happening now!!!!!

Glad it turned out in the end. Matter of interest: have you got a series 2? and did you relocate your transmission cooler? if you didn't move your transmission cooler, do you think it would've made things easier if it had've been out of the way?

Well I can't compete with those 500hp+ figures from the UK, or Tangles' awesome S1, but here are my 'before' and 'after's. First one was done at my 100K service and was completely stock apart from a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox. Then there were some mod's, and a re-tune. I am very happy with the result so far anyway. Before: After:

ooh 'eck. not an easy fit to a series 2 then. think I might not go for the cooling pro fmic right away - i'd like to keep my a/c fan.

How much trouble was the cooling pro fmic to fit? Did it fit up to the stock SMIC pipes ok? Need to move horns/cut bumper etc?

Second that!

Awesome, well done First drive always leaves a lasting impression. I also got my S2 stag through Ben @ J-Spec back in December '07. /\ umm no rust on mine yet... I am worried though... anything that can be done to stop it before it happens? Guess I gotta pull them off and look for the sponge...

Hi all, I'm about to start looking for a coilpack harness as I've got a broken clip on no. 1 and I'd like to know; is the NEO harness off an R34 the same as on the stagea? I can't think why they'd be different but thought I'd check, 'cause can't find anything with a search. thanks DaveB

bloody null modem cables, there are 50 million kinds of those too... so really, PC modems for instance (an example of a DCE?) which used to plugin with serial cables (usually 9-pin to 9-pin) - those cables are straight-through? But they didn't usually even have all 9 pins connected...? edit: This is totally off-topic... but I just happened to notice in your sig. that you are using a water-air intercooler on your DR30... do you have a thread anywhere with any details of this cooler setup? I would love to do the same to my stagea...

Recommend removing the positive terminal from the battery and connecting it via an ammeter/multimeter (initially set to the 10 amp range) when the key is out and everything is off to check the current draw. If it's anything more than perhaps 100 milliamps, you're going to have flat battery problems sooner or later. Even then it should probably be less than 30 milliamps, not sure.

Thanks Ben, someone who knows something about rs232 I never heard of a straight-through rs232 cable before though? Always thought TD had to be to RD, CTS had to be wired to DTS or DTR or whichever one it is, etc etc?

Thanks Robert, I didn't realise the ignition had to be off to change boost maps Just now done the fine tuning with the LED's... fingers crossed, but all seems to be working as the instructions suggest! I did manage to trace my problem in the end; I had left out a wire link which connected the common side of all the switches to the cable I've attached a picture of the link I missed out; it's not as obvious (to me) as the rest of the links because it is under the plug, and I missed it first pass (and second lol) The cable I used is just a straight-through DB25 male-male (you can see it in the pic - just a couple of IDC type plugs on a length of ribbon cable). I hate how serial cables are always so confusing... so many different versions of the darn things - but I'm pretty sure that for it to be an "RS232" cable, it would need some fancy wiring - pins 2 and 3 crossed over, for instance, at the least? This is just my experience with the cable though... straight-through works for me... BUT remember everyone, YMMV

Hi all, need help asap - anyone know what the pin configuration of the 25-pin cable used to connect the IEBC to the hand controller is? I keep seeing mention of "RS232" and "serial" but I'm pretty sure they're just referring to the connector which was commonly used on those interfaces, and the cable should actually be "straight-through" all pins connected 25-pin male-male? I have the IEBC LED's lighting up and the hand controller display working fine but none of the switches on the hand controller do anything; shorting the high/low switch on the IEBC toggles the "(H)/(L)" on the display though.

excellent

Second all this, could also be the alternator bushes; I've had similar symptoms/problems before. I don't know if the bushes on the nissan alternators are like the standard bosch ones that just swap out with a phillips-head screwdriver, but it's a pretty cheap (~$20-ish?) fix if they are. For a second battery, you might be able to get up to an 18 amp say gel cel to fit under the spare tyre cover in the boot. Especially if it's rated to work on its side.

Nor can I... they've changed their menus lately too

Kermit TE37's!

SA has a big slice of that pie...

Nice - sounds pretty good to me. I've only ever had mine tuned at boostworx as well and I'm only making about 15kw more than you with a neo and gcg hiflow. Tho I spose I don't have a FMIC... I'm hoping that my trans will now sap less power with the upgraded stall convertor. Just driving it in traffic it's amazing - no need to stall, just plant your foot and it's at 3,000 revs instantly! It really takes off now. Plus I tested out what it might be like when I get my IEBC installed - I removed the vacuum hose on the wastegate actuator and at stall like that I can make at least 5psi And that's not even flooring it... awesome. Can't wait to see what it'll be like after this next tune with the IEBC.