DaveB

Yeah looks like an 'old parts' bin. Good pickup RBPOWA - that's a series 1 auto dash. Pic' of a series 1 260RS dash, which Adam would be very familiar with too no doubt Rear bar doesn't look like an Autech one to me? Got at the very least an aftermarket lower lip at the front. Doesn't have Autech wheels. Surely that steering wheel's a defect (no airbag). Are they aftermarket rear-view mirrors???

Wow, after 4 years you'd think this thread was dead I read on the wiki pages that Bluebird ATTESA (really ATTES) is non-electronic and uses a centre diff' (think about it... it's a transverse-mounted engine)

Wow for $80 I'd grab it... looks like the ECU on the right is an earlier version (going by the large version number up top), and being the '98 one that would make sense... Haven't read about any wiring harness changes for S2, only about 3 different versions for series 1. But knowing Nissan, they probably shifted the whole plug one pin to the right or something like that Surely this '99 model ECU from a S2 NEO engine (yours *is* a NEO isn't it?) will work with a '98 NEO engine? However like Robert (KiwiRS4T) I agree that the Nistune is pretty reliable (had mine done nearly a year ago) so doubtful that you need another ECU (unless it is to save a few days downtime while you wait for the express post). You can send your ECU off to have them install the ROM chip professionally and pre-load it from your ECU and have it ready to plug-and-play for less than $500. In the manual there is a procedure whereby just swapping a couple of jumpers the new ROM is bypassed and the whole thing is back to factory original.

If they're like the C34 ones they're pretty big really - nealy 2 metres long (!) - in terms of length. You can't fold them up so you need a 2-metre-long shipping crate, which is expensive. edit: just wondering if the M35 has pillarless doors like the C34?

Perhaps it's worth mentioning that the majority of dump pipe fitment issues seem to have involved the "split font/dump" type dump pipes (the kind which has two tubes which run next to one another - the larger exhaust/turbine tube, and the smaller wastegate/bypass tube which merges back with the main tube before the catalytic converter), and these are usually from the bypass tube fouling the body somewhere, or insufficient bend at the end of the dump tube to clear the floor (apparently the floor of 4wd skylines/stageas protrudes lower around the passenger footwell to accommodate the front diff... or something like that?). You may be lucky that you get yours to fit first try... or you may have my kind of luck, where something off the shelf will not fit in place of the stock stagea item and thus will not accommodate a cat-back exhaust in the stock position... hence why I chose to get something custom-made to guarantee it would fit.

Hi Daniel, I'm not a guru, but I have been through this once so here are just a couple of things which may or may not be useful... - if you can get a cat-back system made for $600 and at it is at least 3" and the mufflers are stainless, I say that's a good price. If there's a cat included that's even better. But not all hi-flow cats are the same (cell count, diameter and type - ceramic or metal - are the main factors I think. I have a 5" body ceramic hi-flow wth 3" in and out) - I got a custom exhaust made to your specifications for my S2, with 2 mufflers and 3". As long as the mufflers are oval types, and not canons (more sound-absorbing material in ovals) then they do a pretty reasonable job of keeping it quiet. Mine's still louder than stock though, and has a bit of drone - watch out for drone! I think though, that with a completely straight-through system (which mine is) and a big dump pipe and cat', some drone is unavoidable. As has been discussed in the exhaust thread(s) the skyline exhausts are different and need modification/lengthening. I reckon go for a custom-made exhaust for the best fit/ground clearance (which quickly becomes a problem with a big cat and 3"+ pipe when you want to lower the whole lot). Dump pipes - I wouldn't try to fit anything that wasn't stagea-specific myself as it would likely require modification (they are different - even S1 to S2), so I'd leave that to an exhaust shop. However there are a few stagea-specific pipes around. I know of one guy in Adelaide who makes split pipes to fit S1 and S2 stagea (he made my S2 pipe). good luck... David

You've got an auto *up*? You lucky bugger...

Hmm thanks Rob sorry for the late reply, but I haven't forgotten about this project. A better intercooler, a boost controller (jaycar IEBC) and a re-tune should be all I need to finish this project off. But considering that I need an extra 60mm by the sounds, and the pipes at the top of this liquid-air cooler are not properly aligned the same as stock and so may require even more clearance, I might have to look at front-mounting the exchanger via a turn-back style setup (this will be less critical than with a FMIC I think because the whole thing will still be smaller overall and thus hopefully more manageable/easier to conceal). Oh... and I would need to get my front bar re-sprayed at the same time... chipped, scratched, cracked and split (dayz too)

wtf 600k's to a tank? lucky bugger...

That's where I'll eventually get mine side-mounted by MV Autos; that's actually the location they said they mount it in.

That's awesome, good work!

edit: oops, meant to be in reply to last page... see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4559953 Interesting; I have those exact same rims (R33 GTR I mean) on my series 2 with standard suspension, no spacers. They sit pretty well too I think... 245/45/R17. re. KiwiRS4T: I agree - that's right, tyres are not wide enough at 245... but anything wider than that in tyres is sooo darned expensive... even at 17's. I calculated my tyre width as being about right at 245mm with 9-inch wide R33 GTR wheels (245mm ~= 9.6") but alas, evidently I did not allow enough for the lip/beads/whatever, and they are stretched but only a little. Tye fitter told me about it and said it was ok but that I would get a little premature wear on the edges.

Good work! That little comparo' shows nicely how much bigger the stock pads are. The 4-pot calipers look pretty nice though... wouldn't mind a set of those either. But I think for an upgrade, budget-wise, if I could get away with just slotted rotors and stainless lines, that would be sufficient.

Great work Chuckie!! If you can find rotors too that would be awesome - I'm having no luck, last place I tried was RaceBrakes but they're in Melbourne; they wanted a sample but I can't do that from Adelaide. If you have any luck with rotors (preferably slotted! - but if cheaper than Nissan genuine then can still factor in cost of slotting anyway) then I might not have to go R34 brakes after all. The standard stagea pads are pretty beefy.

Yes plenty of reports, 'cause when width is different, rolling circumference is different... there's plenty about it in the stagea forums. Posts from sk, etc. etc. I've read where it's been done successfully (260RS for example). Easiest not to, but up to you.

Cool thanks guys.

Really? I heard you had to pressure-bleed ABS systems, because of all the pumps/potential airspace in the ABS actuator or something? If not... cool

Well apart from the obvious advice, which would be read this thread, and take a look at some other stuff on SAU (you can find a lot with a search for 'stagea wheel dimensions' etc), like this thread here - stagea wheel dimensions, I would hazard a guess and say that they will fit OK - I'm *sure* I've seen them on a few other stags in Japanese photos. But Mike will be able to tell you for sure. He seems to be the resident wheel-fittment guru.

Niiice chuckie... have those '32 calipers been rebuilt? They look brand new! PS... something I've always wanted to know... when you changed your calipers, replaced your lines etc. how did you bleed your brakes (what with having ABS and all)? Interesting... I heard there were some cheaper pads available now for S2 fronts, not sure if they were Bendix... v. interesting... Sucks about the rotors though. I would want slotted for that at least. I will try racebrakes and a few other places, but probably just gonna upgrade to R34 and get mono-blocks at the same time.

Exactly. I was thinking of lifting/cutting both connections at the high-beam unit, and effectively making them the new connections to the coil on a new relay. But if you wanted to only lift one and run the higher current through the existing HID/Hi-beam relay, then yes it makes sense that the negative connection must be the one switched by the new relay, otherwise you will just end up with more current going through the indicator stalk :S PS now that I look at that diagram again, it appears that the two (top/+ve) connections are marked "Hi", as the low-beam ones are marked "Lo"... I just drew my circle over them lol.

Hmm doesn't make sense imo for Nissan to put the switch on the wrong side of the relay though! (but I've seen it elsewhere in the stagea when wiring the alarm). You've got it right though I think, as of course I should have read the diagram fully in the first place... the high-beam globes are indeed sunk via the switch matrix. Damn. I'm sure there must be a good reason for this, but I just hate it when they put the switch on the high-current side of the relay, because it means the switch can burn out and the brilliance of your lights is potentially affected by the condition of the contacts in the switch. So yeah, another relay is needed, probably easiest to install directly at the high-beam units.

Hi RubyRS4, another option if it's a S2, is the Nistune - not a piggyback solution but basically a whole new computer (makes it fully programmable). Mine set me back just over a few hundred and that was including installation into my ECU (sent it away, got it express-posted back). Boostworx in Adelaide (just off South Road) handles them. Matt handles the type 4 board install (attn: Matt - [email protected]).

Ok well quick look at the wiring diagram... (what I *think* are the hi-beams are circled in red... these could also be the parkers, but I think they're on the 'tail light' circuit) And checking my car, the high beams definitely sound to be on a relay. Either they are switched by a relay, or the parkers are also switched with the high-beam flip switch or some strange mojo, and that is the relay sound I can hear... with more investigation I could isolate the relay. I tried pulling one but they still worked, there is one other to try but difficult to get out. Anyway you guys can try this yourself... simply pop bonnet and remove the fusebox cover from the 'box behind the battery, then standing outside driver's door (or even better with a helper) and ignition & headlights off, 'flash' the high beams... you can hear relays going off.

ok. yeah it wouldn't be too hard. i might even try to trace some wiring diagrams before i think about wiring in another one in series though just in case there is

Thanks I will look at that. But now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure it already uses a relay. In fact, I'm pretty sure that's how even my bluebird was setup...