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DaveB

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Everything posted by DaveB

  1. DaveB
    At least it's 24 hours but yeah, 20 minutes for me too. Trouble for me is that my stagea is tuned for E85. I've got a '98 map but it's only for low boost, and there's a bit of messing around required to get it on the ECU because my consult port is on the blink at the moment. I think I also need to get a retune to use the United E85 since it's properly 80-85% instead of about 60% (E-Flex) which my tune was done on.
  2. DaveB
    Went to fill up this morning, and the E-Flex pumps were taped off. Spoke to the guy behind the counter and he said that Caltex are no longer bringing in stock of E85. He said that a couple of servo's still have a few weeks' stock, and then that's it. Anyone else heard this news? He suggested partitioning Caltex to keep E85 in SA. So if this is true... then the only place left is United. For me, the closest is probably the Adelaide airport station (which I hope is 24 hours... might not be). Unfortunately, my tuner says the United mix is higher ethanol content (about E80-E85 compared to Caltex E60-E70 ish). This is good for power, but probably means a retune. Or a calculated mix with some added '98. Nistune do flex-fuel sensors now, but that looks like costing another $2,500-3000 because a lot of re-tuning is required. Anybody else running E85?
  3. DaveB
    Yes it was a bit of messing around, but I managed to return them and exchange for the GTR version.
  4. DaveB
    Hi all, So dry to dig up such an old thread, but does anybody know whether an R34 heater core will definitely fit a series *2* stagea? Cheers DaveB
  5. DaveB
    Hi all, I have a set of 260RS door handles and interior trim, asking $50 (they cost me more than that). Turns out they don't fit series 2, but should fit series 1 I am assuming...? PM or reply here... cheers DaveB
  6. DaveB
    I don't remember needing to use a special tool to get mine out. Since the new one comes without plug, you have to cut the plug off your old one. So if you do that first, you can then get a ring spanner on to remove it.
  7. DaveB
    Great idea, I should have thought of that. I should be able to find some shorter lock nuts because they're quite long; if the ends have enough thread I might also cut some off. Cheers PS I suspect the threaded rod is attached to the turnbuckle. But if not, then I'll just look at trimming the turnbuckle.
  8. DaveB
    No worries I haven't actually confirmed it with anyone, that was just my interpretation of the front suspension geometry based on year 10 metal work (pedal prix) lol. I checked the arms on the car, and there are perhas 1 or 2 threads visible on the driver side and maybe 2 or 3 visible on the passenger side? (the reason these weren't used, I guess, is because the arms would need to be removed to achieve the final adjustment, since one end of the adjustable section has run out of thread).
  9. DaveB
    Ah, I see what you mean. No, my tires aren't rubbing on the plastic. Though for some reason, the arms are at their maximum adjustment. Something not quite right here, if you say you can get more than ~4.45 degrees with the same arms. Do you have a 4WD or 2WD? What camber arems (if any) do you have? I have these: ...they're fairly common I believe... and they are at maximum adjustment as well, and still I have -1.15 degrees camber at the front. Maximum adjustment for the castor rods means they're wound in as short as they will go. Maximum adjustment for the camber arms means they're wound out as far as they will go. Not sure what's going on, since the car is not overly low (on standard diameter tyres, I can fit two & 1/2 fingers between the tyres and guards - I measure ~355mm wheel centre to guard). If I can't get more caster with adjustable arms, then I'm stumped. Something that sticks in my mind though is that when I was measuring up the arms to replace the stock ones, and I had them side-by-side, I'm sure the stock bolt locations required several turns on the hardrace arms to wind it out to make up the length. But I have felt the adjustment on the car, and it seems the passenger side is as short as it will go. Grr.
  10. DaveB
    Well, the arms definitely fit, but after taking the car in for an alignment, I only have about 4.5 degrees of caster... About as much as I could manage with caster bushes. Apparently the arms are at their shortest. Sounds like bad design to me - who would be buying adjustable arms to get *less* caster? Or have I missed something? Wolverine what is the plastic that you needed to move forward? Also, what traction rods have you got with 6 degrees?
  11. DaveB
    Thanks Bob, I can confirm that the R33 GTR Hardrace arms fit RS4 http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_717_731&product_id=845 (pic in post above) Wish I had've got this right the first time around, but oh well. This upgrade is not actually much more expensive than bushes (actually cheaper than what I paid since I did it myself this time). I will have to wait and see if I can get my 7 degrees of caster out of them though - the arms didn't actually need much lengthening, so they won't go much shorter to gain caster I guess.
  12. DaveB
    Thanks guys. I looked around and ended up getting some second-hand R33 bolts, which are the same. Fitted them last night (getting those camber bushes in can be a real pain) and car is with the wheel aligners now. I have gone to adjustable camber arms, since I have had 4 sets of eccentric-bolt-adjustable camber bushes, and I still didn't have enough camber adjustment on the driver's side.
  13. DaveB
    If you have swapped your front, upper, outer camber bushes for adjustable ones (ie. Whiteline, SuperPro, Nolathane, etc. etc) I would like to buy your old bolts! Here is my predicament... all the adjustable units use an "eccentric bush" design, and these use crush tubes which are threaded at either end and come with their own bolts: The original unit, however, is an unthreaded crush tube, which has one long bolt that goes all the way through, with a nut on the other end. I have had the adjustable units for some time, but now I am upgrading to adjustable castor arms, and I need the original bolts. The workshop which fitted mine has I think discarded my original bolts. If you still have your original bolts, I'll give you $20 plus postage for them It would save me a long wait for the parts to come from Japan. Alternatively, if you have any other ideas, I'm all ears... I think the R33 and R34 (GTST, GTT and GTR) all used the same bolts, but RWD stagea is different (S14). Cheers DaveB
  14. DaveB
    Hi, I was just wondering what the go was with RB25 *NEO* coilpacks these days, as when I was looking a few years ago, they weren't available - only blue ones were available There was a brand, I think they were red, which sold NEO replacements for a short time but then withdrew them because there were problems. I notice there are part numbers for NEO now though in the Yellow Jacket range so I take it we have a less expensive option for RB25DET NEO at last? cheers DaveB
  15. DaveB
    When I said "I" removed it, that was a bit of a furby... I watched the mechanic do it with the car on a hoist. I have a vague recollection of him scratching his head for a couple of minutes, and saying something like "hope we can do this without dropping the diff", but then I pretty clearly remember it only took 5 minutes so no diff removal just a bit tight.
  16. DaveB
    Sold.
  17. DaveB
    Cheers, yes I've done it several times, it's just when I do my 4WD stagea I use spring compressors, and that's a pain. Lol! I hate handling them. Thanks guys, great to hear that it should be OK to let the nut trap the spring and not worry about the spring compressors. The pre-load must be pretty high though - I'd hate for one to let one go.
  18. DaveB
    Hi, This probably belongs in the suspension thread, but it gets pretty busy there. So this is probably a silly question: is it safe to remove the front spring/strut combination (Bilstein lowered, SK spec' with circlip grooves) without compressing the springs with spring compressors? Like, just undo the bolts and remove the assembly complete, with only the shock shaft nut to contain the spring preload? SK mentions "spring compressors are essential" here but I'm not sure if he just means to get the springs onto the strut and get the top hats on. It would make things much easier if I didn't have to use spring compressors to remove the strut from the car (it's hard to fit two on the spring while it's on the car). I'm just a little iffy about the few hundred kilos of force stored up in that spring, being retained with a little tiny bolt lol. cheers DaveB
  19. DaveB
    Great news, thanks Rob, confirms the details I found on the Cusco arms here: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-adjustable-pillow-ball-tension-rods-nissan.html Just out of interest, what is the piece of flat metal with the bolt holes which is welded onto the side of the Cusco ones for?
  20. DaveB
    So I've spoken to the seller, and it looks like these are the ones he should have told me about: http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_717_731&product_id=845 HardRace advertise them as R33/R34 GTR and the picture shows they are visibly different to the S14/R33 type (including, apparently, longer bolts). They also appear to have a slight bend... but it's hard to tell. Bob, I'm really hoping that since you've got a GTR rod in yours (which is 4WD), these will fit as well since they're for GTR. Oh well, have to wait another week to find out I guess.
  21. DaveB
    Well, looks like they're not going to fit. Here is one of the Hardrace arms next to a stock arm: how to do a screenshot on a pc First thing I noticed was that the captive bolts were shorter. Unfortunately, even though the spacing is correct, they're not long enough: free image hosting There's also a very slight bend, which I don't think is crucial: post images ...but without it, the swaybar links get rather close: imgurl ...there's not actually much space there now: image url Another issue, is that the bush end appears to be too narrow - pretty sure this would just be clunking back and forth on the bolt: upload pic So, unfortunately I'm going to have to try to return this and exchange for a pillow-ball style arm, because they're the only ones I can get. Doesn't look like I'm going to get that 7 or 8 degrees of caster any other way. cheers DaveB
  22. DaveB
    Sorry I got waylaid with brake issues, another story. But I held the arm up to the stock ones and I can tell you that the length and hole spacing at least appear to be compatible. I will have a go at fitting them tonight, since the car is already up on stands without front brakes. Should be updating this thread in another couple hours or so
  23. DaveB
    Thanks guys, I will know today.
  24. DaveB
    For sale: driver's side weather strip, $75 Comes attached to the metal trim, with rubber seal, so you can be sure all the clips are included and it hasn't been broken in an attempt to get it off. Located near Adelaide, SA. PM for info.
  25. DaveB
    Have you put a multimeter on the terminals? Also, I have discovered that the brake light bulbs have to be turned (or pressed in, I can't remember) until they click.
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