DaveB

Awesome... and are R34 brakes a straight bolt-on? ie. no bolt size differences to worry about? What about lines, anyone know if the fitting on the car that the flexible lines attach to is the same as R34 (thus enabling the use of R34 braided lines) or would a custom line need to be made? (this for S2 RS Four)

I second this... I did order these, and they now sit in the garage. I have also asked to have the first post amended too...

Digging this up again 'cause I am after CV boots too... is it true that the front outer CV boots are the same as N15 pulsar outers? And is this SERIES 1 OR 2??

...pm sent!

Damn, yeah look something like this? peeling badly...

Does anybody know if the unicorn badge of the front grille of a S1 will fit a S2 turbo grille? Anyone got a S2 unicorn badge in good condition they don't want? Mine's looking really rough... the shiny coating has worn off in about 50% of it in random places and the shinier (??) coating underneath is showing there.

Small hiccup??? Damn! What happened - pics?

This might be a little superfluous however I though I'd just chime in and say: if you're fitting a split style dump again, make sure it is either the eyebrow divider style, or that the turbine pipe is the right size to fit snugly inside the exhaust housing and won't stick in so far that it jams the exhaust turbine. Just something I've found out from experience...

exactly. With a S2 it is the same thing; there is a separate locking circuit and a separate power window circuit for the driver. ie. one locking circuit for the driver, and another for the other 3 doors. The box which controls *all 4* in a S2 is located on the passenger side, under the dash. You have to pull the whole glovebox out to get to it. It's right up in there. As for M35; I don't know sorry. But there is definitely an actuator in the driver's door, be it solenoid or servo, if the door unlocks then it is there. What your installer can't find is *the connection*. For which you need some sort of wiring diagram... for the S2 the R34 workshop manual was very useful for me as it is probably 95% the same as S2 stagea. Maybe you can get hold of a V35 diagram or whatever the M35 equivalent is... if there is one?

Cheers, will do.

Lol thanks. Actually if you haven't removed them yet, do you mind waiting a few days anyway? If you've already removed them that's cool I'll still get them anyway. cheers DaveB

AH, so *that's* what they're for!! Do you have the roof handles, the ones that the cargo net clips into? I need the passenger side one, but will take both if you have them, as long as there are no broken clips... $40 posted to 5159? Thanks

brilliant chuckie - thanks for that adaption of an idea I'm gonna take a look around for that spray silicone.

oops wrong thread :S

Niice, and both with (what looks like) the same front mounts too lol

awesome, awesome... I will get around to fitting mine *soon*! I am a little concerned my GCG hi-flow may be running out of puff already... at ~185rwkw I am wondering if I have maxed out the turbo or fuel. Tangles I reckon the autos are eating a lot of power... the same setup on mine on a manual is a proven ~240rwkw, sometimes over 250rwkw, and I'm guessing that yours would be the same? Therefore I reckon if you want any appreciable amount more top-end, go for a bigger turbo than what is shown to give say 240-250rwkw 'cause those figures are almost always from a rwd manual chassis (yeah I know you would know this better than me... this is just for my own thinking/realisation really )... auto + awd seems to chew up a fair bit more than that. De-rate it and go for a 275-300rwkw turbo you will probably end up with "only" 240-250rwkw...? I swear my auto is eating more than 70kw.

Awesome, thanks man! Just what I was after. I think this is the way I will go if I upgrade brakes; R34 all around (though I might not think so when I see the price of 2nd hand R34 brakes and rebuilding costs ). I will use either R34 braided lines, if they will fit, or else get custom lines made. I hate banjos!!

R35 ones do...

circa 250 would be damn nice... but much nicer to have more torque on the way to 6,000 too Below 4-5,000 mine feels down on stock ( ) with the steel-wheeled hi-flow... but that is mainly because I am without a boost controller as yet. Are you worried about lag with something big-ish like a 30 series turbo? They are supposed to be gearbox breakers in Nissan autos (I have read that the flex plate becomes an issue at a little above 250rwkw in the tiptronic box) and you might soon be testing the capabilities of the driveshafts... sounds like a lot of fun!

Yeah that sounds awesome tangles, I like your thinking! How ironic that the cheapest cat' is also the highest flowing Would you mind passing on where you can get a 3071 and lines so cheap? I priced lines and fittings for a couple of options when I was researching the cost of my hi-flow and anything garett/hks/non-standard always cam out around 2,000 somewhere, hiflow was the cheapest I could find. ACS do their 3071 core upgrade for the standard turbo but that's even more expensive ($2,200?) and I heard, laggy. $350 is a cheap intercooler option. However I have been considering, for similar money, a liquid-air intercooler setup; the lines would be shorter and potentially *much* shorter (depending on how much work I want to fit it) and the cooling capacity would be much better than a fmic, and should be much lower pressure drop too (say, less than half a PSI - perhaps as low as .2 PSI?) This is purely speculative... have you thought about liquid->air? thanks for keeping us posted... it's always a good read edit: PS What else did you have done to your 'decked out' head - just port/polish? Is that why it took so long in the workshop?

That was the first thing I thought when I saw the pictures too lol! Glad to see you got her back *at last* Tangles... and Boostworx have done another good job How are the turbo oil seals? 206kw is pretty damn impressive for a series 1 auto. I'm only making 185 on my series 2 with a full 3" exhaust/custom split/dump pipe and a hi-flowed neo turbo. Tuner said that it was the auto 'box sucking up all the power. Although I am running the stock side-mount intercooler. Thinking about some poncams now... low - mid-range power sucks atm. and that beast of yours sure did sound smooth at 4,000 revs .

WOW, nice How big are those rims?? They look like 19s?

Wow, that's... drastic. On the car, I think it looks quite nice - good contrast with the bright yellow

That would be interesting to see... however CRIPES don't rip out your turbo for a 6-10psi blower ?! Supercharging does have its benefits of course, but if your unit's limit is 10PSI then I fear even the stock turbo is going to beat that with a good enough intercooler.

Thanks for the info QWK32; I think the RS Four V would have to be about the most common stagea model in Oz so should help most people. It's great to see pictures of what we're talking about too, to compare the R33 hardware with the stagea hardware. I can see that the '33 pad is quite a bit smaller than the stagea pad? two questions for anybody... - is the 4-pot R33 setup a 'monobloc' design or does the caliper still slide? - heard a few people mention this now, so does anybody know for sure if the R34 hardware is caliper bolt and line compatible with this model stagea (S2, RS Four V)?????????? I'm thinking second-hand calipers and new R34 slotted rotors (yes, you can ACTUALLY GET those ) and then I think R34 braided lines would fit? (and you can ACTUALLY GET THOSE TOO!!) I realise that you can of course get R33 hardware too, and it is more common, but if the R34 hardware fits without modification that would be my choice. Tired of my rusty old warped front rotors that rattle the steering wheel under brakes at speed.